Sorry this is a long post, but I have a potential hypothesis inspired by this comment:
This is interesting information. I know there are certain IoT chips that are known to have a conflict with routers’ WMM settings. The original Wyze Bulbs and Wyze plugs had one of the chips that have an issue with WMM, for example. I learned this back when I was using a version of OpenWRT router firmware/software called “Gargoyle Router”…I had a REALLY hard time getting my v1 bulbs and v1 plugs to pair or stay connected. After an insane amount of research I discovered that a lot of IoT devices had a conflict with certain WRT-based routers. Further investigation explained that certain IoT chips conflicted with the WMM setting, and that it was possible to manually turn it off. So I used PuTTY to login to manually alter the router firmware to disable WMM. As soon as I did that, everything suddenly worked.
Then, I later learned there are also some IoT chips that have issues with a couple of other settings, particularly common with WRT-based routers (but not limited to them). Some people have had luck by disabling what is called the “LDPC” sometimes in addition to the WMM, and to “use CCMP only”.
This was apparently something that was happening in a lot of ESP-based devices, at least with some of the older chips. Supposedly ESP fixed the conflicts in some of their newer chips.
Honestly, at this point it’s almost impossible to know if your branded router is using WRT-based firmware or not. Most companies nowadays will take WRT open source firmware as their foundation and then build their own branded custom firmware on top of it. Even Wyze’s own routers are basically WRT-firmware that they modified for their own use. Lots of companies do the same, even big name brands. But regardless of that, we do know that WMM, and LDPC features have had conflicts with some IoT chips, including some ESP chips. And sometimes those are turned on even if your router doesn’t have a setting option to toggle them on/off (I had to use PuTTY to go turn mine off in my old Router for example because the UI didn’t have a WMM setting anywhere, but it was actually turned on anyway). Now I ALWAYS disable WMM, QoS, and LDPC on my routers whenever possible. I’ve seen too many examples of them causing issues with devices, and sadly half the time they aren’t even visible options in the GUI.
My point is that you mentioning WMM reminded me that something like this could very well be related to this issue. It could explain why some people don’t experience this issue at all, while others are experiencing this issue. It’s possible the IoT chip they used doesn’t play well with a setting like WMM or LDPC on certain routers.
It may also explain why Wyze hasn’t made a lot of progress with this issue. The Thermostat can’t see if a router has WMM or LDPC causing it to get kicked off the network. It only knows it is getting kicked off by the router, not why. It’s also possible they can’t program a firmware fix for something like this. If a router kicks a device off, it’s not like the device can FORCE the router to keep it on. It is seriously quite possible that whether the Thermostat always stays on or keeps losing connection may be directly related to which router a person has and whether they have WMM/LDPC on or not. I am not saying it is the router’s fault, or the IoT chips fault. In a way both are at fault. The router works fine for other people with other devices, and the device works fine for other people with other routers. Regardless of fault, this is a pretty plausible explanation for the root of the issue that may need to be explored further.
If I were Wyze, I would have some people with the issue report what exact router models they’re using and try to replicate the issue on those routers and then see if they can fix it. My hypothesis might be wrong, but it’s an interesting avenue to explore.
If anyone gets around to looking through Public FCC files to find out what chip Wyzes uses in the Thermostats, we might be able to search and see if there are any known conflicts with WMM or LDPC or anything like that. That could be useful information.
(Also, I should mention I am not having this problem at all, so I can’t really test/try it out --I originally reported this issue to Wyze and got it added to F-it-F to help the rest of you who are having this issue, and I have been tracking it to keep passing on to them any new information (not because it affects me, but because I like to help people who are having issues like this)-- but as I said, I always disable those settings discussed in this post, so that could be one explanation why my Thermostat stays online all the time while others are having the issue).