Service Advisory 02/16/2024

What are you looking at purchasing? I also have a V3 Pro but I like the plain regular V3 the best all around.

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2 of the regular v3’s. Just to use for viewing the live stream. Tired of changing the batteries on my battery cam pros every other day because i constantly watch/check them.

All my v3 cameras are working great after the outage. I just noticed Home Depot has a sale on v3s ($25.98). Amazon and the Wyze site have v3s at the same price too. Wyze site even has the Black and Blue v3 at $25.98. I like the fact that I can go to my Home Depot and buy it off the shelf.

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I was just looking at them on Amazon lol. I like my battery cams very much. Minus the fact the faill to record most of the motion. I had a couple places i can mount the v3 inside in windows to hit some blind spots. These will be fillers/ live stream to save on battery changes/charges.

Yes, I purchased one yesterday before I saw the outage thinking mine went bad. Got it today and it is still having the same issue.

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v3 are working, but the v3 PROS are not working!

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So make sure its the regular v3 and i should be good to go?

My V3 Pro never went off line during the outage.

I just ordered another V3 :rofl:

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Just curious. How many do you have on subscription?

You all need to give us back the option to run locally. I have 20 or so cams and about 1/2 are currently unusable. We shouldn’t have to depend on your AWS instance when we are just trying to view the cameras locally. I have done all sorts of things to try and get them back up but the V3s just keep acting up. I get them up then they drop again. The older cams connect fine. We have decided to start replacing our Wyze cams with another brand that supports local integration into BlueIris. We cannot have these cams down for this long. I guess that is what we get for trying to save costs on the indoor cameras. Really bums me out because the appeal of the Wyze cams was the price point with decent quality images.

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The ability to view it locally without wifi would be awesome. Has wyze ever considered it? Sorry im new to wyze and like you the outage killed me not being able to see what was going on. And wasnt sure my cameras would come back at all. They still are hit and miss if the pick up anything but i can at least get a live stream every other try or so.

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I have the unlimited 99 camera subscription for $99.00. This will be my 10th camera.
The $99.00 a year price comes out to about 28 U.S. cents a day, worth it to me. :grin:

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I have 20 wyze cameras all different models and doorbells and they all came back on about 1:30 in the afternoon Eastern Time

System still down and no support from Wyze

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My standard troubleshooting before I even contact support goes like this (not always 100% in this order):

  1. Do nothing, or at least first check the forums and see if there are any similar reports. If it’s not an isolated incident (there are other users reporting the same thing), just sit tight until they say the outage is over. Then if it doesn’t come back automatically after they say it’s over, OR if it appears to not be a known outage:
  2. Power Cycle camera and Router/Modem --Then Try:
  3. Factory Reset (and go through setup again) --Then Try:
  4. Flash the Firmware (probably to an earlier version…sometimes you try this step more than once with different versions…make sure you use a 32GB card…I also generally prefer it in FAT32 format)…people often do this firmware flashing step wrong and don’t extract the files right, put them on the card wrong, etc (after you flash it, go through setup again) --Then Try:
  5. Clear the Cache from the app --Then Try:
  6. Restart your phone, then uninstall then reinstall the app --Then Try:
  7. Temporarily turn of the 5GHz band (some routers have issues with different protocols for same named bands) and make sure you’re on the same network/router as the cameras --Then Try:
  8. Install an earlier version of the Wyze app, preferably on a different phone (make sure location access is approved, Bluetooth is on, etc…maybe do it through a Bluestacks Virtual machine or something) --Then Try:
  9. If it’s stalling on the QR code, there are a few other things to try (make sure the screen isn’t really bright in dimly lit environment, make sure there is no message overlapping the code, make sure you’re not using forced dark mode, etc) --Then Try:
  10. Make sure you aren’t running some kind of VPN or DNS-filter/Pi-Hole, firewall, etc that could be interfering with activation (I’ve seen this several times).
  11. Make sure you’re using the official power cord and adapter, not some 3rd party cord or adapter, especially not a long power cord (which probably reduces the power too low).
  12. Bring the camera somewhere else (in case there is signal interference or a number of other environmental concerns that could be affecting it going through setup again…preferably set it up again in the same room as the router).
  13. If the camera appear to have NO POWER (status light won’t turn on, you don’t hear clicking when you plug it in, etc). Try a different Outlet, different power adapter and different cord. If there is another camera that is working, take the non-working camera over there and use that outlet, adapter, and cord. Now try all of the above and see if it works. If it does, the camera probably needs a new cord or adapter or the outlet is bad. replace whatever is needed. Also, consider using surge protectors to ensure energy surges in your house aren’t damaging devices.
  14. Repeat most of the above steps at least once.
  15. Contact support.
    • Note that Support will ask that many of the above steps be done [again]…just do them anyway. They need to be able to vouch on their end that they walked the user through doing the required things they are supposed to check. Refusing to do them doesn’t do anyone any favors. If they can vouch everything was done as they asked and it’s still not working, then they can move on to the next steps. It might be sending a log or details to the Tier 2 Support or engineers. It might be processing a warranty exchange, etc. Just get through exhausting their requirements so they can get to the next steps.

Again, not always in that exact order (depending on what the exact issue is), but in general, I do a lot of those.

There are probably a few other things that could be tried, but I’d say the above fixes 99.99% of all non-responsive cameras I’ve ever seen (with Wyze and other camera companies too). You may think some of those steps don’t matter and you don’t have to try them, but you’d be surprised how often I’ve seen each of them fix otherwise non-responsive cameras.

I have multiples of nearly every camera model except the v1, over 40, many for several years or since launch. I haven’t yet had one that wasn’t recoverable and 99.99% of the time they’re fixed with one of the above steps (there are some rare circumstances that required other special attention but were still recovered). I have had family and friends bring me their “bricked” cameras that they couldn’t fix even with a firmware flash, and I always got those working again too. I know there are some definite bricking issues sometimes, or water leak damage or something. And it’s possible some of you have truly bricked cameras, or there is still some unknown server issue, though flashing to an earlier firmware should change most of that since others are still able to restore and setup cameras.

Even with this current issue, several people in different platforms who said their cameras didn’t come back online at first have reported that one or more of the above steps resolved their issue, so I figured I’d post the above for those still looking for things to try. I hope it helps someone who is still out there looking.

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I sadly have a subscription because the SD card playback was horrible and nearly impossible to search for an event without the AI. Also, SD cards randomly stop recording without any notification. I was hoping if I subscribed, I’d actually get cloud recordings like Ring but even the cloud recordings are much shorter than the SD card recordings (probably made that way to save money on storage) so the result has been the event cuts off before it’s even finished.

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To get the system working again I had to delete the sense hub and the keypad, delete and reinstall the app 3times. Then I had to reinstall all the devices and sensors. Wyze support was of zero help over the past 3 days!

Thanks to those who participated in this thread.

Wyze acknowledged that some accounts had been hacked, but they have supplied no updates since day one. I wonder who’s got my data now?

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So better off having the sd card as a back up for at least the cloud? I have to 2 on cam plus. They both start recording either in the middle of the event or after the event is over if at all. It has been that way since i got the battery cam pros and cam plus. Personally recording should start anywhere from 3 to 5 seconds before the motion. I had the roku version a couple years back. Recordings were like that. Got way more recordings in 1 day than i do out of 2 with wyze though. And it would record like 5 seconds prior to the motion as well. That was a huge plus. But the connectivity of it was horrible. Seemed to loose wifi if it was bumped or moved from its spot where it was set up. So i gave up on them.

At one point they did offer a firmware with RTSP support which would have allowed you to connect the camera to a local NVR that supports RTSP. I could never use it because it was considered a Beta firmware and they didn’t maintain it with security updates. We were currently using the Wyze cams as secondary cams and just recording to SD card, not the cloud. If they put out an official firmware with RTSP that is maintained, I will consider putting the Wyze cameras back into the mix. For now, we are going to start replacing them with something we can integrate with our main IP camera system.