I replaced a V3 with a new Pan V4. One thing I did notice is that like the standard V4, it still can’t be added to Home Monitoring. I was hoping by now they would have been able to add the V4 and now the Pan V4
One other thing I noticed with the Pan V4 is time drift after motion tracking. The live feed is within a second or two at most when stationary, but after a couple of motion tracking/detection events, I noticed my wall mounted iPads start lagging behind by 8 seconds. 8 seconds doesn’t seem like a lot, but it’s enough that a person can get up my walk and to the door before I begin to see them entering the camera view. This would only be noticeable for live feeding, since once you close and reopen the live feed, it’s back to just a second or so lag.
Dang, I wish I’d realized this earlier so I could’ve asked about it in the AMA!
I have 2 V4s, one that is actually closer to my satellite mesh router is constantly disconnecting where the one further away with a weaker RSSI stays up solid
I also noticed that the dropouts only occur if I’m using pan and scan. If the motor is not kicking in, the camera stays up solid. As soon as it starts moving around I get dropouts and inability to connect.
This has been going on since I connected the camera.
Which forced me to leave it locked in one position, which defeats the whole purpose of having a pan cam in the first place.
Has anybody responded to this issue?
I’ve been asking for several days now .
Can you swap the cameras. See if the problem follows the camera. If it does you might have a defective camera.
My v4 has settled down and has been connected to the 5gHz band all day
Originally I had only 1 waypoint and Pan Scan was disabled. When I saw your post about the combo affecting its connectivity, I added another waypoint and enabled Pan Scan. I can’t seem to replicate that issue.
I’m going to retest later today and provide an update.
I think that’s a real issue, and it’s annoying. Hopefully that’s something they’ll address in a future firmware update. I personally find this particularly frustrating when I want the camera to be in a certain position to make the microSD card slot accessible and don’t want to manually (as in moving it with my hands) position the camera, following guidance from Wyze:
One kind reminder: for the calibration to stay effective, please avoid manually moving the camera position or forcing the rotate of the camera by hand.
That’s why I’ve started temporarily setting a new Home Waypoint to accomplish this:
I’d really like to see Wyze develop this as a separate feature, though: Have a user tap of the “eject” button in the app also position a Pan camera (to a user-defined position based on however the user has the camera mounted) to make the microSD card slot accessible and freeze the camera in that position until the card is ejected and the user confirms that the flap covering the slot is closed. I haven’t seen this suggested elsewhere and have a note to write this up as a Wishlist request but haven’t yet done that.
If that setting isn’t surviving a reboot, then I’d definitely log it and submit that to Wyze. That sounds like a legitimate bug if it’s repeatably behaving as you describe.
Per the Reddit AMA, Cam Pan v4 is expected to be added to Home Monitoring System in the future:
Pan v4 will support Home Monitoring System (HMS). Integration work is in progress and is expected to be available in the next app release, targeted for mid-October.
Another user mentioned (non-Pan) Cam v4 when asking about HMS, but I didn’t see that addressed in the AMA.
Got a new message today that v3.7.0(695) “won’t work for your device”.
I wonder what the deal is with that. 
All good points. I’m holding off logs and support until the dust settles. I thought the wifi issue had reached that point as multiple users had seen an issue. I’m not so sure as I’ve been stable for almost 24 hours. I’m watching for confirmation of the “going home constantly” issue as I consider that a major shortcoming (I’m being nice).
If you’re talking about the new pan cam V4, the only time I have disconnects and inability to connect at all is if I have the pan and scan on. It seems the motor either interferes by insufficient shielding, or it draws so much power that it weakens the RF signal
When I have it off, using it just as a stand still camera it works just fine and stays connected.
It must have something to do with the motor kicking in. My signal is strong, another V for PCC is stable while panning, but this one just won’t stay connected if I have it panning
It’s worthless for me on one of my V4 pan cams, because every time I have it on panning signal drops after a few minutes and I can’t reconnect
I don’t know what the antecedent to your “It” is. 
If I’m understanding - - you have 2 v4’s. One is stable and one flakes out when you exercise the motors. If so just swap their positions. Be interesting what you observe. Sorry if I’m reading this wrong.
I could do that, it’s just that the one that’s working just fine has a weaker signal, it is further away from the satellite mesh Wi-Fi router, and the one that keeps crashing is much closer with a stronger signal.
So I would be very surprised if it made a difference.
Sorry about the confusion, this chat system is pretty horrible since I couldn’t even remember which one I replied to, they just all come out in sequence and there’s no hierarchy as to who’s replying to what. But I was referring to the pan cam being able to pan if every time I activate that feature it disconnects. Might as well just improve the V4 camera with a 4K resolution.
But you could rule out a defective V4. If the flaky one is flakey in the same spot that was the good one then it points to a defective camera. If so replace it and your good to go.
If the good one becomes flakey in the flakey position then new possibilities open. Bad cable, bad wall wart, possible wifi dead spot where the motor noise effects the wifi signal to noise ratio. Lots of possibilities.
And it’s still possible that there is a power bug or wifi bug that is exposed in the right conditions.
Just as a data point I’ve been running on the high band for 24 hours now. I’ve been panning and scanning like crazy. I’ve seen no issues other than the bugs I’ve posted earlier. Ive also had the unit on the 2A wall wart that came with the unit and yesterday had it on a pure sine wave UPS without any issues.
No apology is necessary. Your reply was directed to me, so I wanted to make sure I was responding appropriately, but I didn’t understand the remark in context. Because the reply was directed at me, I thought it was about something I’d previously written, but I wasn’t sure what.
I actually like using this platform (Discourse) quite a bit, but it can take a while to really understand its features. (You can click/tap this for more detail if interested.)
I actually like using this platform (Discourse) quite a bit, but it can take a while to really understand its features. Something that may help in the future is understanding that there are at least two ways to add a comment/reply to a discussion (topic):
- Each comment/post has a Reply link at the bottom. If you click or tap that link/button in an individual post, then your reply will be directed to the user who created that particular post.
- There’s also a separate Reply button at the bottom of the topic (“thread”). Clicking or tapping that creates a response to the topic itself, not to a particular individual.
Note that it’s also possible to switch between the two even after you’ve begun composing a reply. If you want to respond to the topic but initially clicked a user’s Reply button, then just click the topic’s Reply button instead. You can also select a different user’s Reply button if you want to respond to that specific user, even after beginning to compose a reply. Your “target” will show up in the composer to let you know where your reply is being directed. Availing yourself of the quoting and @mention features are also helpful for getting specific users’ attention.
If you haven’t already done so, then sending a personal message to @discobot to go through the tutorials can also be helpful for learning how the system works so that maybe your experience here will be less frustrating.
I know this isn’t really on topic, which is why I stuck it in this “details” component, but hopefully having it public like this will help others who might happen across this topic.
Well, I haven’t swapped the camera locations yet but suddenly out of nowhere after almost 24 hours of functioning without a problem, the good camera just stopped working! And I didn’t even have the motor running.
The hardest thing to troubleshoot is something that’s intermittent. This is really challenging!
At first it was happening to both cameras, and then when I call camera number one suddenly started working just fine. And scanned never dropped out no problem staying connected. Number two on the other hand was constantly dropping never seemed to recover and figure out how to stay connected. Finally I stopped the pan scan to see if maybe the draw of the motor or interference from the motor might’ve been causing dropouts. That was after I purchased a very high-end Cable thinking that possibly it wasn’t getting a good voltage drop across the standard cable that comes with the camera. When that didn’t help I just turned off a scan and it stayed up for almost 2 days now without a problem.
Suddenly tonight camera one failed out of nowhere, and it wasn’t even panty and scanning. I had locked it into its own position to watch the driveway for my wife to come home for work and it’s just suddenly dropped and would not allow me to reconnect until I power booted the camera. It’s back up now and running, I’m afraid to start panning and scanning again though 