Wyze Video Doorbell interferes with Chamberlain garage door opener

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41

I recently set up my doorbell, and noticed the chime is linked separately afterward as an Extended Device (like how the Spotlight is an extended device of the V3).

What happens if you DELETE the chime from the doorbell (not just unplug the chime, since the phone will keep searching for it)? Then the doorbell might stop broadcasting in that frequency range and thus there would be no interference anymore because it’s no longer trying to stay connected to a chime. Then you should also unplug the chime after deleting it (to ensure it doesn’t cause any problems either).

Then the doorbell will still work with your phone(s) and you can presumably have Alexa Echo devices sound a custom chime/audio/alert when someone presses the doorbell button.

The VDB would presumably have no reason to broadcast on that frequency if the chime is deleted from the device, but should still otherwise function normally. Maybe test it out? It’s not the ideal resolution, but it would be an informative test, and it would allow use of the VDB…and there alternatives (Alexa) for getting the chime noise that wouldn’t cause interference.

In addition to Alexa, there is a way to force Google Assistant devices to broadcast a custom sound through Webhooks or Tasker, but it is a little more complex than the user friendly Alexa option.

42

Just read this forum after testing and confirming that my wyze doorbell also makes the garage door opener VERY short range. I have two garage doors and the one further away from the doorbell is not affected.

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I also posted a picture from @speadie ’s FCC report.

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I have also just installed the Wyze Doorbell (last week installed) and thought it was a fluke that the garage door openers would not work outside the garage, replaced batteries reprogramed remotes, and still same issue. Is there a workaround for this issue or do I Have to remove the Wyze Doorbell, if that’s the case very disappointing since I really was looking forward to this?

45

Everyone: For me — Problem SOLVED

The short story is I replaced the power wiring to the doorbell with shielded wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNH97WU/

Longer story: My house is wired for a Panasonic KX-T telephone system, with door answering units. So, I do not have typical push buttons, transformer and electromechanical bell. Instead I have CAT 5 twisted pair in a home run to the telephone equipment. To install the Wyze doorbell, I removed the Panasonic outside speaker, and removed the connection at the phone equipment. I bought a transformer typically sold to power Ring doorbells, and connected that, and the Wyze doorbell outside.

Worked great. Until I tried to use the keypad to open the garage door.

The keypad is 18”-24” away from the Wyze doorbell. The wiring for the doorbell runs through the same (plastic) conduit run as the garage door opener push buttons, and the LED sensors that stop the door If something interrupts the light beam.

I believe the RF interference that is caused by the power supply in the Wyze doorbell is transmitted in the long power leads, and induced into the wiring going to the opener via the very close parallel path in the conduit.

I disconnected my original telephone system doorbell wiring, pulled through the shielded wire, and grounded the shield at the transformer end.

My opener now works the same as before installing the Wyze doorbell.

I felt that this was a RF harmonic issue, and after reading the excellent posts here, I decided to shield the power conductors.

I might want to add that I discovered that when the Wyze doorbell was “idle”, my range for the garage door opener remotes was reduced from two to three houses away to “in the driveway”. However, if the doorbell was “tripped”, that is, it sensed motion and turned on that very bright LED, range was further reduced to the point that I could have the bumper of the car touching the garage door and it wouldn’t get enough signal to go up — until the doorbell timed out.

I’d be glad to answer any questions if this isn’t clear enough or I missed something.

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46

Great post! However now I will be returning the doorbell because running wire and shielding is way to much trouble for my inexpensive video doorbell.

I will go back to the Wyze camera sitting inside the window ledge at my door.

I am sad that it won’t work for me.

47

I am having the same issue with my Chamberlain opener since adding the Wyze doorbell. It really screwed up using the button in my wife’s car but the original remote works when you pull up close to the door. Rather than panic at this point I will give Wyze a week or so to address the issue.

48

Good luck with that.
Wyze hasn’t acknowledged that there is an issue have they?

49

Chiming in that I also have this issue. Chamberalin suggested I buy and install the 889lm unit which I guess uses more frequencies to avoid interference, and this seemed to help, but annoying I have to pay to fix Wyze’s mistake.

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The dip switches do not change frequency, the dip switches change the code only.
The frequency is assigned by the F.C.C. that it uses, and is not changeable.

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51

Was going to buy a Wyze Video doorbell, glad I saw this post…
Now i won’t buy one as I do have a door opener on 900MHz.

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52

The 889LM is a wired wall unit, not wireless. It won’t help your remotes at all.

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The 889LM converts older garage door openers to use the newer myQ capabilities, including smartphone control. Yes it is also a wall pushbutton, but that’s not all it is.

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Wyze agent said they won’t fix the problem of its product blocking remote’s signals and because it’s beyond 30 days of Wyze not fixing the problem since my purchase, I can’t return their defective product.

I was asked about my Wyze video doorbell in a large city group Facebook page (100k + members) and I had to say absolutely DO NOT buy their product.
Sad, because I had been a huge Wyze customer for past 5 years.

Customer service agent Shaquana basically told me to pound sand.

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If you want to sell it, I think I could use it.

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To follow up for anyone else, swapping my garage door wall unit with an 889LM fixed this issue for me. I guess it uses different frequencies that are less likely to be interfered with by electronic devices. Yes this is a wall unit, not the garage drive itself, but it works because it can directly relay to remotes itself, bypassing the drive unit. Cheaper than replacing the drive unit itself.

https://smile.amazon.com/Liftmaster-889LM-Control-Panel-Replaces/dp/B07ZTRG8ML/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=889+lm&qid=1616441513&sr=8-3

FYI, if you do go this route you may also need to get 891LM openers to pair with it as well, older openers will not work. Recommend getting at least one legitimate 891M opener to pair with things like homelink, found out that the Chinese knockoff ones don’t work for the homelink pairing process for whatever reason, but do work for general opening/closing purposes.

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My problem is that I use the remote that is built into the car rearview mirror – (Nissan). Does anyone have experience of the myQ system with those?

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That’s probably a homelink system, that’s generally what most car manufacturers use for this. Worked for mine when I paired my 889LM to a legitimate liftmaster 891M opener for training/pairing with my car.

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To add to this, if one has an older garage door opener that needs the gateway interface as well, here is a link to the manual for what I purchased a few years ago that plays nice with the Wyze Video Doorbell:

60

Finally installed my doorbell and I’m having the same issue with a Liftmaster garage door opener. What I don’t understand is why I cannot open my garage door with the remote when outside the garage but I can close it with remote inside the garage.

I really hate to remove my doorbell. Like others, I am outside of the 30-day return period. I hope that Wyze acknowledges and addresses this issue.