Forgive me if I’m beating a dead horse, but, I’ve found posts that sort of answers my question, but not specifically. Well, here goes! I’ve just installed two Wyze cam v3s, & I’m about to install a third one. Our wifi is borderline, and I’m on the verge of trying the Wyze Mesh Router (2 pack) to hopefully boost our wifi coverage. I assume based on what I’ve read so far, that I’ll attach the one (root) router to our ISP modem/router via ethernet cable, and I’ll connect the second router wirelessly? I’ll disable the wifi router on our ISP’s box, & use only the modem part of it? Am I correct in my installation assumption? I know there’s more to it than that, but, I’m mentioning the steps that are a little hazy to me.
BTW, we live in a 1400 square foot double-wide mobile home, and the the routers will be placed about one third the way in, from each end of the home. Thanks for your help! 
You can do it that way, but I would also make sure any wired devices are also connected the Wyze Mesh Router as you want to make sure all devices, in your home, have the same IP Scheme.
However, simple question and not knowing your provider, I have Versizon FiOS and removed the ISP provided router and connected the WAN directly to the Wyze Mesh Router and everything works well.
Others, I know, have ComCast, they have removed the ISP provided router and connected the Mesh to the Modem in the same fashion. If you have ComCast and have a dual modem / Router setup, you should really disable the Router portion and then connect the Wyze Mesh to the Modem and let it handle the DHCP / Router functions. Or purchase a Modem only setup, compatible with your provider, and use it and the Wyze Mesh Router.
In all cases, the Wyze Mesh setup cannot be used as an Access Point.
Thanks for the quick reply! The only wired device I’m using is my Dell desktop pc. Everything else is wireless. My ISP provider is Centurylink, and I’m using their Zyxel PK5001K modem/router (all in one). I appreciate the help & any additional advice will be greatly appreciated!
My Pleasure.
Looks like you have a DSL connection. I would contact Centurlink and see what Modem Only devices they offer or is compatible with their service. If they have one, you can simply connect that and make sure it is configured. Then connect the Wyze Mesh directly to it.
Did a quick check and found this on Amazon, it does say CenturyLink, but not 100% sure, which is why I would contact them directly.
BTW: I also saw that the model you have is indeed going out of service. So it is a smart to look for a replacement.
Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention it’s a DSL connection. I may be able to check out Centurylinks modems through my account. I believe I remember browsing through some of their devices a while back. Thanks for the heads up on the Zyxel, it’s definitely been in service for several years!
I appreciate the the link to the Netgear modem. I’ll check it out, and I’ll get with Centurylink before I pull the trigger on anything! 
Thanks again, for the help!
I looked at CentruryLink and it seems they only provide Modem Routers all in one devices. you can set those up but would need to turn off the Router Portion of the device.
here is a Wyze Video. Around 54 seconds in, they mention about combo devices like you have
I would encourage you to check your Centurylink account and see if they are charging you a monthly fee for their equip. Who wants to rent a modem for $8-10 a month versus buy on $ 80-90 once (no one 
Most ISP have a section on their support page/section that explains what non-provided equipment will work. Who knows, that gear you have might not be allowing your max speed to your home. Its worth a look.
Yeah, I’ve been browsing along with you & I came to the same conclusion: NO stand alone modems from Centurylink!
I’ve actually already watched the Wyze YouTube video (thanks BTW) and it was helpful. The only thing that he didn’t make clear was the wireless connection between the root router & the satellite router(s)
I think for now, I’ll just go ahead & use the ol’ Zyxel & switch off the router 'til it “bites the dust!” I’m going to keep my eyes open for a possible replacement down the road.
Thanks again
Thanks Sam. I’m pretty sure Centurylink is charging a rental fee for the modem/router.
To make matters worse, I can’t access my Centurylink account since they changed over to Brightspeed a couple of months ago, in our neck of the woods. I created a Brightspeed account, but, I forgot to write down my username & password! I know…I’m an idiot 
I’ll have to get with them tomorrow.
I’m going to seriously look at some options, namely equipment ownership, in the near future.
Thanks for the tips!
That’s an excellent idea. FYI, ISPs often “tie” your modem’s serial number to your account. Meaning, you might need to know its serial number to verify that you are who you say you are. Good idea to collect that and write it down (might as well get the model number too), before you call. Sometimes the automated process for resetting your password requires you type it in, and it allows you to reset.
I think Brightspeed is a division of Charter Communications & Spectrum. So smaller ISPs such as Centurylink (compared to Spectrum) may prefer that you not use your own router, But I think some de-regulation in that industry allows it.
As for owning your own equipment - good idea. Even if you have to simply buy on eBay, Amazon or someplace the same one you are using and disable the router side to get to the modem, at least you are not giving them a monthly rental fee.
You seemed to be discussing the “connection” between the root router and satellite. FYI, in a mesh router system, the main is usually referred to as Main or Router, and the others that are subordinate - so to speak, are referred to as nodes. Most mesh routers are 2 or 3 band. And higher end usually have ports so you have the option to use them as a wired backhaul.
Backhaul is the term used to describe the connection between the main and the nodes. Sometimes (if you have cable and a path to install it, you can connect the main and nodes with cat5, cat6, cat6e or highter cable. 2 or 3 bands refers to the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands as the two bands. With 2 band mesh systems, the backhaul uses the 5 GHz band also. This makes it more cost effective than the 3 band systems. But if your video, such as your game consoles or TVs are streaming at 5 GHz connection, your toys are competing with your router to router connection. So, they designed a new standard, the 3rd band. Its usually 6 GHz and is used solely for backhaul communications, leaving the 5 GHz for your toys. Simple spreading the traffic across more separate lanes of a highway. Make sense?
WOW! That’s a lot of information! And some of it might be a little over my head! 
The backhaul connection you mention, is it a better way to connect than to connect wirelessly? Forgive me for being vague, but, does each of the 2 or 3 band configurations use the 2.4 GHz bands? I believe the Wyze devices use the 2.4 band only. I’m just trying to get a better grasp on everything.
Thanks
I use a wired Backhaul. Wired will give better speed and allows you to place the. Satellite node anywhere you have an Ethernet connection.
Both work well, but if you have the ability for wired, I would use wired.
The only ethernet connection I have is at my centurylink router, so, I guess I’ll have to go wireless with the satellite node.
Thanks
That works. if you get the Pro, it is a Tri-Band Router which will reserve one band dedicated to the Backhaul. This will optimize the backhaul.
On a budget, would you get one mesh pro, or two pack standard?
Budget speaking the Standard ones work great. I am waiting for the Pro’s as I prefer Tri-Band. It also allows for more devices to be connected per device. Once they are released, I will be buying the Pro’s for my house.
I have most of the Wyze Products and a bunch of other Wireless and Wired Devices, being in IT.
Thanks! Based on our needs, I think the standard two pack will get the job done. I just discovered Wyze recently, when I decided to replace the ancient Drop Cam (Nest) in our living room. I bought it back in 2014 from BestBuy for around $200 to keep an eye on our African Grey parrot, during short vacations. (She’ll be 28 yrs old this Dec 21st) The Drop Cam subscription was costing us $10 a month for 14 days of back video! That’s for one camera, and the video quality wasn’t that great! After checking out many other cameras, I decided to give the Wyze cams a try. They got quite a lot of positive reviews, and I figured if they didn’t work out at least I didn’t pay much for them. So far, my wife & I like them. I started with two cams, then added another, & then added a couple of smart plugs. I’m using the Wyze app on my android phone, with no issues. For some reason the app doesn’t work so well on my iphone, but, it’s a much older 6s running iOS 15.2.1
Thanks for all of your tips & advice. You’ve been a big help!
I support everything @spamoni has said in here. Yes is correct and said it well.
@mikewnc63 yes, first time hearing this can be a lot to take in, but you can bookmark this and re-read these threads and posts that allow it to sink it. So, hang in there.
Yes, you know, 2.4 GHz was for years the only band, the first band. And its not the fastest. But it has the widest spread across your home. And being first/oldest, its matured and companies like Wyze and hundreds others make their devices to only connect to 2.4. Meaning, generally you have no choice but 2.4 for your stuff like this. Then a few years ago, all this smart home gear was grouped into a category called IoT (Internet of Things). 2.4 was slower and getting slower when we starting putting streaming TVs and game consoles on it, so those manufacturers gave us the option to connect at 5 GHz, but let the smart home stuff only on 2.4.
Even with the wireless backhaul at 5 or 6 GHZ, wired is faster. But maybe you can’t run an Ethernet cable from your main router through the attics or basement to come up next to your mesh system node. And that’s why it uses wireless as an option, only option.
You mentioned your Centurylink modem has only one Ethernet port. That makes sense,’ It is going to plug into your main router. On the Wyze system, even the Pro, the main router is which ever one that you plug into your router. Then the other one(s) become nodes because they are NOT plugged directly into your router. When you set these up the first time (only time, most times), you plug one into your router and the second one close by. As it setup, the process finds the second one and binds to it. (Same process if later you buy one more and add it to your Wyze system). After the node is setup, you can move it to other locations in your house.
Some of us have been doing this stuff for a long time. Could have had a dozen routers in the past 30 years. Before there was wireless, some of us wired our homes with Ethernet, and its still there, so we can drag a fresh cat 6 or cat6e cable and use a wired backhaul.
Connecting another router to our existing router just to extend the coverage in the home is not new. Some of us used to use an old router with a wired connection, setup a separate SSID and extend our network over wire back to our main router. In those days, the manufacturers had not caught up with what people needed. We figured this out on our own and posted to bulletin boards, because it was before the web existed. In those days, these “second routers on a separate network” created their own problems, so it was not common. But that’s another story, and you don’t want to waste your time hearing more about it.
Let’s talk about this for a minute. If you get the one pack of the Wyze mesh Pro, where would you put it in your home to maximize your coverage? Things to consider, shortest unobstructed (no walls, floors, closets, between all your devices and the router. Where are most of your 2.4 devices? Where is your cable modem? I think since cable modems are an after thought for TV cable companies, the cable modem is often near the location where the cable comes into the home. This could make the location not efficient for the WiFi.
Think of a basketball court. Is a basketball court sort of like your home? Where does the cable/cable modem come into the basketball court? A sideline or end? That’s not where we want it. It doesn’t maximize the WiFi signal. Where do we want a one router system located? Most of the time, in the Center Jump Circle. That’s so the WiFi signal radiates out towards both the sides and toward the baskets. The baskets’ area are going to be weaker than the sidelines. So, let’s improve it with a two node system. Where do we put the nodes? In a perfect world, we would put one node each at the three-point line, so the signal radiates toward the baskets, back towards the center jump circle and the sidelines. So we have the same thing happening on both ends of the court. And there’s enough signal for there to be an overlap of signal at the center jump circle. This would be optimum for a basketball court shaped house floor plan. But many of us can’t get the main node to the center of a half court’s three-point line. Its going to be located near the sidelines even along the sideline even with the three-point line. So what do we do? We read the specs on the router, and check how large its range is. Because more expensive routers among the manufacturers have a larger range/wider circle of signal. If we can’t put the node in the middle of the court to get the WiFi signal across the court to the far side, we have to buy the "3300 sq feet range router, because the 1500 feet range router is not large enough. Yes, located on the sideline, the part of the signal that is radiating into the bleachers behind us is wasted, since we don’t have any WiFi devices there, But its because we can’t locate the node in the middle. So we increase the radius of the circle to include or reach across the court to the far side. Make sense?
But before we buy a really expensive larger range system, let’s look a the cost of a 3 node smaller range vice two node larger range system, Because if the three node is cheaper, most cost effective, we can put the main router next to the cable modem on one sideline, and let it broadcast across the court to the two nodes, each located at the three point line. So, three smaller circles of signal reach out and overlap just enough to give ups the coverage we want.
Updated:
I’m on a roll here, so let me add some more. Now that they Wyze Pro router is out, and we see now, the number of device for each node is 75, we need to remember this. Seventy-five is a reasonable & normal number. I’ve had to read up on routers specs for the past year+. Seventy-five is a good number per node. But there’s some things you need to consider. How many devices are on your network, today? And we tend to grown our home network, not reduce its size. So 75 might be enough today, and not enough next year. Plan for it. This limit to number of devices sneaks up on us. We don’t think about it often.
That seventy-five per node is a good number. But I have not seen anyone’s product that allows you to assign a device to selective nodes. They attach themselves to a node without our control. So, you could have 90-95 trying to attach to one, and only 20+ on your other node, and it won’t work. I’ve not seen anyone’s router or specs give the option to push a device to a specific node.
So how do we hedge against maxing the devices on a node? The only way that I have found so far, is to pick a router manufacturer/model that a single node device space is larger than the total number of devices on my network. In other words, as if I had only one node, everything has to be able to connect there. Then what’s the point of the second/third node? Range, - distance - increasing the size of my network to reach everything, may require 1+ nodes.
Bottom Line: We need to count our devices today. We need to look at the specs on routers we are buying and make sure a single node of that router system has a device limit larger than our requirement, so we can grow, and not outgrow our system before its obsolete in other aspects.
Could not have said it better.