Thanks, my Centurylink gateway is actually DSL. When I mentioned that my router was my only ethernet connection, I should have mentioned that it has four ethernet ports. You got me to thinking that hooking up the second router with a cable is an option, if I decide to run a long enough cable to another part of the house. The only ethernet port I’m using is for my Dell desktop connection, sitting close to the router. That leaves three unused, one which would be used for the root Wyze mesh router. Here’s the Centurylink Gateway (combo) that I’m using: Zyxel PK5001Z
I understand the basket ball court analogy of the node/satellite placements. That’s a really good way to explain the placement of them. It truly sounds like you’ve been at this quite a while, and I appreciate you sharing your experience & know how. I’m definitely no expert by any means, but “I Know a Little” (shades of Lynyrd Skynyrd!!) 
Wow, I appreciate that praise. Serious wow. Thank you, sir.
My Pleasure. Great hearing insight from other IT individuals.
Keep up the great work. 
The Mesh Router has 2 ports on them. On the Main router, one would be used to connect to your CenturyLink Modem. The other could connect to a 5 port switch, if you need additional ethernet ports. But if you are not in need of any, you should be ok.
Hooking up the Nodes via WiFi will work well. As @Sam_Bam stated “Even with the wireless backhaul at 5 or 6 GHZ, wired is faster” which is a fact. But you can move into a wired Backhaul gradually.
If you do end up getting the Wyse Mesh, feel free to post here and Tag me or others if you need any help.
Thank you. You are generous with your praise. But I am not the only one that adds to the Wyze conversation. Many here are far more deserving. I know a little about network, but Wyze forum is mostly about “other Wyze stuff”.
What we share here is directed as reply whomever asked, but also in hopes it helps others that read the thread. One of the best sources these days for help, (not just WiFi) is YouTube. Visit, and look at specialized answers to everything. You simply need to strip in your head the manufacturer uniques to pickup the how-to to apply to your situation. Good stuff there. And free.
You are right on the money. Your Centurylink DSL is your gateway. For most of our discussions here, we are not concerned its DSL. The transition of your DSL delivered Internet connection is not important to what we’ve been talking about. Yes, your DSL/Modem/Router is an accurate description. But going forward, when (when) you have your new mesh router system, and are ready to turn off the Wireless Router part of you DSL/Modem/Router, let’s start calling the DS/Modem/Router, simply your Modem. Simpler terminology and more accurate to describe it by its function than this (DSL Modem Router combo with Wireless side of Router disabled, whew, that’s a mouthful).
Yes, if I recall correctly, you will be turn off the Wireless side of your Modem/Router combo. I think the wired ports will still work. And that’s a good idea, to have your Dell connected via the wire. Be aware, most desktop/laptops disable the Wireless internal card, when a wired plug is plugged in. So, don’t be surprised if you leave the plug/wire plugged into the computer and wireless doesn’t work. That’s what its supposed to do, disable the wireless. Sometimes, I forget and I unplug the cable at my router and I can’t make the wireless connection. I forget its disabled because the cable is connected to the computer, not because it disconnected at the router.
The nice thing about that Wyze system, you can set it up for the wireless main to node configuration fast and painless. And it will work great. Then if you decide to finish with a wire run between the two devices, that’s helpful to your system. And your fall back for any reason is the wireless node to node connection.
Thanks guys for all of your help. I just pulled the trigger on the two pack Wyze Mesh routers at Amazon. ( This was after deciding which credit card I wanted to do the shootin’ with!! 
)
Ya know… me too. At Amazon. Remarkable coincidence, eh? All this talk of routers got me juiced up to do sumthin’. I’ve been running this one for more than a year. ASUS ET8 and its been great. I have a sort of classic old pickup truck sitting out on the street because I can’t get it in my garage. So, I am trying to reach it with WiFi. Today, I bought this one, ASUS ET12 because its got a little more boost and I hope it will help reach. I have a couple of Wyze V3’s in the cab that point front and back. Maybe this will give me the signal I need.
This is ET12 is a overkill for my bandwidth needs. But why not anyway. I use Yolink for my mailbox sensor which is about 145+ feet from my garage. Works great. So, I added a Yolink Shake and Glass Breakage Sensor to the inside of the truck. This goes beyond motion. I messed with its sensitivity settings so, banging on the underside with a reciprocating saw to cut the catalytic converter alerts me.
So as not to drain the 12V, the next project will be a flexible solar panel to hang in the truck’s back window to recharge a 12v motorcycle battery to power the Wyze cameras and a Garmin Mini 2.
Hey guys, I just got my Wyze mesh routers connected & running yesterday evening. Everything linked without a hitch! (Phewwl!) I followed the instructions in the Wyze app & had zero problems with setup! As suggested by most, I disabled the WiFi router side of my Centurylink modem, before hooking up the Wyze routers. I used my old customized SSDI & password so I wouldn’t have to reconnect all of my devices. I’ve noticed a boost in my WiFi coverage & it seems to be stronger, I’m assuming that’s from the more uniform distribution. I’ll be able to tell more in the long run.
My only minor complaint is that the the status lights on the routers are pretty bright, almost like night lights. It was convenient for me to place the second router on my wife’s nightstand in our primary bedroom, but, the light’s a tad too bright for my wife. I don’t want to turn off the status light permanently with the app, so, I’m thinking about turning it off only at bedtime. Do you think the constant turning off & on could eventually cause software issues? I would place it in another location, but, I’d have to probably put up a small shelf or table, to get it near an outlet.
Any tips or advice will be welcomed! 
First let me say, that is great news and glad you got it working with no issues. I also experienced a boost in performance compared to previous routers, all have been great.
Now, turning the status light on and off should not cause any issues. I just looked to see if a rule could be setup to turn the status light on and off via rule, but did not find one. You may want to verify that the status light is not an option as an action. If not, maybe add a wishlist item.
Another option is to place a piece of electrical tape over it and simply put it on at night and remove in the daytime.
If you submit a wishlist item, let me know so I can pick it up. I will look to see if one exists already.
Thanks for the input & ideas. The electrical tape idea crossed my mind…briefly 
As a compromise, I thought about “softening” the status light with one or two layers of masking tape (the standard beige color), but, I’m still on the fence about that idea. As you mentioned, turning the light on & off shouldn’t cause issues, but, I think I just needed to hear someone else say it! Apparently the app & devices are made to be scheduled with various on & off times, based on what I’ve learned so far. I already turn our living room cam on at bedtime, and off early morning. (we don’t care to be “center stage” during waking hours!). Since I’m in the app at those times anyway, I could just go ahead & turn the stat light off & on while I’m at it. BTW, I leave the outside cams on continuous record.
I haven’t set any rules or actions yet, but, I may do so during vacation. I was thinking of using vacation mode for various lights, but, I’ve read several complaints about the vacation mode turning on & off the connected lights & devices at the same time…which wouldn’t appear suspicious at all! 
If that’s the case, then I’ll just set various “random” times for each smart plug.
Thanks again for your help
Or a box or a sock. Something that covers it and is easiest to lift out of the way to check and put right back. Hmm, a Wyze accessory for those that can’t find a box the size of a teacup.
All good suggestions.
If we could make it an Action in the Rules area to turn Status lights on or off, that would be great. Then you can set it based on Time, Trigger, or even a shortcut.
And I had nothing but problems with that ASUS ZenWiFi ET12 that I bought to complement my ET8. Got the router side installed, and added the ET8s back. Then added the ET12 node. The backhaul was reported by the system as weak, so removed and added it back again. Did not get better. Worked with ASUS T.S. and they said, send it back. So, did.
A neighbor as told me he has had amazing signal improvement with a Linksys RE9000 router. Tech is about 3 years old, but is impressive. 10,000 sq feet - which is 100 feet distance. Picked one up on Amazon for $120 to play with.
Anyone remember who the person was that was going to buy an extender? Please someone refer him to take a look at the Linksys RE9000.
Hi @spamoni! I just got the two pack of the Wyze Mesh Pro, and I’m very happy with the wireless performance so far. I’m having trouble with the wired devices on my network though. I have it set up to go Modem → Wyze Router → Unmanaged switches and my wired home network, but none of the wired devices are working. I originally had it connected Modem → switch → router, but my cable modem was assigning IP addresses, and my phone on WiFi couldn’t detect my wired devices like the Chromecast. I also have my second mesh node set up with a wired backhaul, but it’s not detecting it.
Is there a setting I need to change with my router or modem to allow the Wyze router to control wired devices? Thanks!
Nope. No sir. No setting that should be changed to allow wired to be recognized.
And incidentally, Modem → Wyze Router → Unmanaged switches is the only way that would work. The cable modem will allow/assign only one address.
None of your wired devices? To me, that sort of rules out a bad cable. Just too far-fetched that all your cables would not work at the same time. Cable “ain’t like tomaters”, they don’t just go overripe and stop being useful.
Keep looking its something else. I would guess you already know, connections to your switch should show as lit on when a device is powered up. The port where your router plugs into your switch should light up, even when there’s no other device is plugged in.
Agreed, with @Sam_Bam
I just setup Modem → Router → Wyze Mesh WiFi Pro → Unmanaged switch.
Everything just came on-line.
My guess would be for ‘cabled’ devices to be rebooted or checked for any manual IP settings (unlikely). They can sometimes hang onto the old IP address that was assigned to them.
Great news, it looks like it started working after about 12 hours of being plugged in! I agree, it probably held on to some out of data information, but things seem to be suddenly working now which is great!
DHCP TTL rules more than likely
Yep, WHEN in doubt something is not working? Restart it should be the first thing we try. Reboot it.