I just purchased a new Wyze Doorbell v2 and it’s working great. The only issue I’m having is with the chime box. Before I switched it, everything was working as expected, no issues at all. Post install, only the hammer on the right is activating when the doorbell is pressed and very, very lightly to the point where no one can hear it. Also, during the day at random times, people claim to hear the hammer moving and making a clicking noise. I have seen/heard it and it’s just moving ever so slightly against the bell. Can someone check my wiring and let me know what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance.
If you have a way to test the wiring and confirm that the correct wire with power from the transformer is actually going to the “T” terminal, then I’d definitely do that. In your photo, it looks like you have terminals for “R”, “T”, and “F” (top to bottom), so the Chime Controller does appear to be wired correctly if the black wires coming into the chime box are what you think they are.
If you don’t have a way to test the AC voltage, then you could try swapping the black wires that are coming into the chime box:
a. Disconnect the black wire from the T-terminal.
b. Remove the wire nut from the other black wire and Chime Controller black wire.
c. Use the wire nut to connect the first black wire (that you just removed from the T-terminal) to the Chime Contrtoller’s black wire.
d. Connect the remaining wire to the T-terminal (along with the Chime Controller red wire that’s already there).
That may not have any discernible effect, though, and even if it works it might not be a permanent solution. (My Video Doorbell v2 worked for months with the wrong wire connected to the TRANS terminal on my mechanical chime…until it didn’t.)
You could also try the alternate wiring method, though I’ve been advised by Wyze Support “that the buzzing/clicking sound on the chime is normal when an alternative wiring method is used.” That wasn’t acceptable to me and is what led to my additional troubleshooting and discovery of my wiring problem.
What do you have selected for Doorbell Chime Type? If it’s set to Mechanical, then you could try Digital with a Ring tone length setting as specified in another Help Center article.
You’re probably already doing this and have the Chime Controller moved for the sake of the photo, but you want to be sure that the Chime Controller and wiring aren’t touching or interfering in any way with the tone bars at the top and bottom of your chime. That kind of interference could cause a muting effect to the chime sound.
If you’re checking on your transformer rating, what you want to look at is its voltage (expressed as “V” or “V AC” or “VAC”) and apparent power in volt-amperes (expresesd as “VA”). The former should be in the 16-24 V range, and the latter should be ≥10 VA.
Thanks! I try. I feel like I’ve learned a lot troubleshooting my own issues with this thing. I really like the product and hope that sharing what I’ve learned can be helpful to others.
Thank you for the suggestions! This is tons of information and I appreciate it! I do not have any way of testing the voltage so I’ll skip to number two and see if I can get the black wires swapped. Do you know if I have to set up my doorbell each time I flip the power for it? I did the first time and it took me a whole 20 minutes (no exaggeration) to get the damn thing to scan the QR code in literally 17 degree weather. It might be my only option though as I assuming swapping the cables love is out of the question correct?
That is the breaker in the electrical panel. Is there a device attached to the side of the electrical panel? If so, that is the transformer. Common place for them. If not, you will have to search for it.
I had to zoom out your photo to read the numbers. The transformer is way under minimum for use with the v2. You need to replace it. Recommend an Amazon replacement in the 16 - 24 / 30 - 40 range. The price difference is negligible. They are easily replaced, especially since you have a breaker/fuse to control power. If you are not comfortable working in the panel, because you have to disconnect the old transformer wiring and connect the new, get an electrician to do it. The wiring you see at the transformer is going to the chime box.
I have front and rear doorbells and replaced my older transformer with a 24/40 one. With only 1 doorbell, you will need at least a 16/10 transformer but suggest higher since you’re only talking about a couple dollars difference in price. So. 16/30 maybe. I replaced my own since I’m a DIY’er and have worked extensively with electrical.
Looks like the challenge will be in removing the existing transformer and wiring in the new one. Looks like possible space constraints and probably will not be able to reuse the cover plate.
Thank you for the suggestion! After knowing what a transformer actually is, I do see it’s below the minimum spec advertised by way is 16-24V so that’s my bad I guess. I live in a townhouse development so I can’t go switching out the electrical units without permission, but assuming I can’t, is there anything I could do to squeeze a little more power from my current transformer? Would the alternate wiring help me at all? Maybe swapping the two black wires? Worst case the chime will be a little dim. It DOES work, just very soft doorbell sound.
I would skip those suggestions at this point, because I don’t think they’ll get you anything. The main issue for you right now is likely power, and I think that would explain the abnormal performance of your chime that you described in your initial post.
I think that’s because it’s underpowered, and my concern would be less about the chime sound and more about the Video Doorbell v2’s performance and reliability. The doorbell camera unit does have a capacitor that will help it to maintain power during a voltage drop (like what happens when you press the button to actuate the doorbell chime), but you’re operating with a below-spec transformer now, and I suspect that might have the potential to cause more frustration the longer you use this thing. I’d go right for a new transformer at this point, and I’d consider a tri-volt transformer, like this (just using it as an example; you should be able to find comparable models at Amazon, Home Depot, etc.):
Your current transformer shows a rating of “10V 5VA”. Your chime box advises you to “USE 10 OR 16 VOLT TRANSFORMER”, and that older typeface makes me wonder how well the older equipment can handle higher voltages and power ratings. (Maybe it’s fine. As I said, I’m not an electrician, so I tend to err on the cautious side.) Since the Wyze doorbells want 16-24 V AC and ≥10 VA, I think going with the tri-volt—where you can start with 16V 10VA and move up later if you need to, like if you replace your chime or add another doorbell at some point—gives you some flexibility because it can meet the requirements for both your Video Doorbell v2 and your home’s existing mechanical chime.
Are you completely certain about that? You just installed a new doorbell camera, apparently, so I wouldn’t expect the transformer swap to be a big deal if you’re comfortable with that. If you’re at all uncomfortable, then I’d follow @fmills1d’s advice and consult an electrician (whom I’d expect to tell you how high you can go with a transformer’s output and your existing mechanical chime).
This shouldn’t be necessary. There might be a delay with getting it back online (especially if you’re using older firmware), but the Video Doorbell v2 itself should be able to recover from a power outage without any need to reconfigure.
Even with the arrows pointing to terminal combinations on a tri-volt transformer, I always have concerns about a novice trying to make the appropriate connections. The 8/10 combo would be totally disregarded on that transformer.
Thanks. I think the concern you expressed is totally valid. These things seem pretty straightforward when you have a little experience, but for someone who hasn’t done this kind of DIY stuff before, it can be a lot to process. A single-voltage 2-terminal transformer would definitely be simpler. Since it looks like @WildPyro wired in the Chime Controller correctly (!), I figure a transformer replacement might also be doable, but I also wouldn’t fault someone for calling an electrician.
Yeah, for sure. Just skip that one in this case and start with 16/10 to meet both the Video Doorbell v2’s and chime’s specs. I just picked that one because it’s relatively inexpensive and, in my case, locally available.
I think I might have to take your advice and upgrade my transformer. Aside from the chime sound being very weak, it seems like my v2 doorbell is disconnecting every few minutes or so. I just installed a floodlight v2 to upgrade my old v1 and it’s doing the same thing… This townhouse just doesn’t provide enough power. The “Heath Zenith Door Chime Tri-Volt Transformer” you recommended has 3 wires for the connection but I only see two in my transformer, will that be a problem? I’m going into this blind and have no idea how to install something like this but if it’s just turning the power off for the unit and two wires it SHOULD be a piece of cake. I assume the power is one of the fuses in the box just like I turned off the power for my doorbell? Sorry for all the rookie questions, I have a background in IT but do very little electrical work.
Interestingly, my Nutone mechanical chime has no rating in the chime box which is why the 24/40 transformer probably worked. It was only $15 on Amazon with prime next day delivery. It has been in operation for 2 years and transitioned to the duo doorbell with th db v2 wired in controllers. Honestly, I think the mechanical chimes can safely exceed listed ratings which are most likely minimum capacity. Just an uneducated afterthought. Uneducated because I am not a trained licensed electrician.
!), I figure a transformer replacement might also be doable, but I also wouldn’t fault someone for calling an electrician.