I’m having a similar problem (though I have a digital chime) and I’m pretty sure that it has to do with the available current when the controller tries to fire the chime. The doorbell transformer that came with the house is a 16v 10VA and that’s a pretty weak power source.
Previously I had a Ring Doorbell 2 (with the battery) that would run everything just fine, though the battery would literally take weeks to recharge if it was down for any reason.
I bailed on the Ring garbage about a year ago and installed a Wyze Video Doorbell, but lost the use of the hardwired chime.
I got the V2 doorbell Wednesday and everything went South. After struggling through the “wait 15-20 minutes” for initialization that really became 30-40 minutes the digital chime would trigger, but cut off after about 2-3 seconds of playing. If I rang the doorbell a couple times in a row then the doorbell would reboot multiple times. Classic “I don’t have enough power” signs. Any overdraw on the current and the voltage is going to drop like a rock causing the chime not to ring and the doorbell to brown-out and reboot. I’m a software guy, not a hardware guy, so I don’t have a quality meter to hook up to see what is really going on. (Maybe someone out there with a nice Fluke can hook up and tell us what they’re seeing)
I temporarily hijacked another transformer for my humidifier (24v 10.2VA) and ah-ha! Now the first time I rang the doorbell the chime would fully play (about 10 seconds). The second time it got about 5 seconds through the song. If I wait 30 minutes or so then the 1st ring will fully run the chime again. Maybe there’s a capacitor in the doorbell or chime adapter that needs a chance to recharge to handle the temporary additional current draw?
I think there is just not enough power to keep everything running with 10VA. It would be nice if Wyze Support would tell us what the draw is from the Doorbell and the Chime adapter.
A mechanical chime will draw a significant amount of current to throw the striker. A quick Google search says that the typical mechanical doorbell will draw about 8 Watts which in this case is roughly 8VA. (Yes, I know I’m not considering the power factor as we have multiple AC devices on the same circuit, but this is good enough for a back of the envelope calc.) With a 10VA transformer that leaves little extra current to share with the chime adapter (it has to draw something, and the draw of the video doorbell itself as it is recording, making sound, and activating WiFi at the exact same time.
I ordered a 24v 40VA transformer from Amazon and it will be here today. I’ll report back when I get it installed. If that doesn’t fix it up, I’ll get my electronics buddy over with his Fluke and we’ll get some accurate readings on the current draw and voltage drop.
Unfortunately for Wyze, I think this is going to be a very common issue for everyone rushing out to buy the V2 doorbell so they can regain use of their hardwired chime. I see trouble on the horizon and a lot of returns as the average joe isn’t going to be interested in replacing their transformer. Many will just throw in the towel after having to wait 30-40 minutes after installation just to find out if their configuration is even going to work. (That wait time to even be able to get in and configure the chime should be spelled out much more clearly in the instructions.)