I think a great short term fix would be to enable the usage of the V1 wyze chime for the V2. So instead of replacing the chime in the wall, just buy a wyze chime with the wire/fuse and be done with it all.
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Definitely did this already.
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I’m upset Perry Homes installed a 16v 10va transformer rather than a $15-20 16v 30va transformer in our relatively new home of 2 years when that is common place with today’s video doorbells. Not sure its worth the trouble of swapping it out now for the mechanical doorbell ring.
Wyze, consider providing a Wyze plug-in digital chime like in our v1 doorbell or allowing the v1 digital chime to work with v2.
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We are aware of this happening to some installs and are currently looking into it. I do apologize for this happening and as soon as I have some info I will post it here.
The doorbell requires a minimum of 16V 10va transformer. However an older transformer may not deliver voltage efficiently enough and in this case a more powerful transformer may be needed. Wiring length or guage could also play a part in this.
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I have the same issue when correctly wiring in the included Wyze Chime Controller. However, my mechanical chime does work WITHOUT the Wyze Chime Controller by just simply pressing the button on the Wyze V2 Video Doorbell.
I suggest others to simply remove the Wyze Chime Controller and reconnect your chime wiring back to original and check if your chime works right out of the box because mine does and I am leaving it this way until Wyze figures out what the fix for the Wyze Chime Controller is.
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The installation instructions state 16-24V, >=10VA. If the instructions stated different power requirements then I wouldn’t have purchased it. I was looking forward to the SD card functionality. Now I’m looking forward to any resolutions.
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This works! Thank you so much.
It will be hardwired behind the plate, but a very simple replacement.
- Turn off power
- Remove external wires
- Remove plate
- Unscrew transformer from plate
- Remove internal wires
- Reverse the above
YMMV and if you are not confident in doing work around 120vAC, then call an electrician.
Here is the unit I ordered (keep in mind I haven’t received it yet, so I don’t know if this will fix it or not.)
Removing the chime controller works for me as well… so my question now is for those who have an electrical background, are we risking anything with this type of setup (i.e. not using the chime controller)? Are we risking damaging any wiring or the doorbell itself?
Well, I have a couple of issues with your statement:
A) The box clearly states >=10VA
B) The instructions actually say >=10VA
C) Where is the documentation that you need a 24VA transformer? (an odd rating for this type of transformer - Generally 10, 30, or 40VA)
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Well, just for giggles I went ahead and tried this on my setup.
A) I removed the Wyze Chime controller and didn’t hook up the Chime at all.
Everything was normal. The Doorbell module seemed quite content.
B) I connected the wiring directly to the Chime (mine is digital).
Doorbell is now unhappy making buzzing and popping noises.
I quickly pulled the wire off of the doorbell and everything is back to normal.
So, at least with my Digital doorbell, this is not a working configuration.
When I connected my chime without the controller, the chime started buzzing but it faded away. This made me think the circuit was charging up and stabilizing. No issues with the doorbell itself yet. I have a mechanical chime so maybe that’s the difference.
Funny note: I had the app setting still on digital with a 7sec delay. The chime would ding with a 7 sec delay then dong with a slight buzzing sound during the delay. Buzzing was definitely because it was holding it in ding mode.
Yup same. I removed the Wyze controller from v2 and bypass from v1 and left it stock. It now works with Wyze doorbell v2.
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Thanks!
Looking forward to how it turns out.
Can you also paste the before situation picture here? I was able to get the doorbell working, but the chime keeps buzzing after words like it is mentioned here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drtpgpQVQ3g
Removed Controller and door bell works with the V2 now. What the Controller for?
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My new Wyze v2 Chime Controller gets quite hot, and the electronic doorbell chime doesn’t chime, until I remove the v2 Chime Controller. It’s wired per the instructions.
My house was built in 1965, and the doorbell transformer seems to be behind a wall somewhere. Next steps anyone? Is there a specification and a wiring diagram available?
So my doorbell wiring says 16v 10VA and my chime would not work with the Wyze Chime Controller. I also only have two wires in it. Before this doorbell I had a Nest doorbell. I decided to put my Nest Doorbell back up until hearing back from Wyze. I attached the Chime Controller that came with my Nest Doorbell and it works with the Wyze Doorbell V2. There is a 1 second delay from when I push the doorbell and it rings inside, but it does work.
Same here. I have a 2-wire mechanical chime and followed the directions to wire it correctly. The chime is set to mechanical in the app, but the chime doesn’t ring when the Doorbell V2 button is pressed. Otherwise the Doorbell V2 is working fine. I am also disappointed that the Doorbell V2 is not compatible with the Web Live View 
Did anyone really think wyze would make something that worked well???
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