Ok, Amazon delivered the 24V 40VA transformer and it is installed!
First things first: No more 30+ minutes for the Chime Controller to be ready to configure the chime type. Once I replaced my old 16V 10VA, turned the circuit breaker back on, and went back upstairs, the Doorbell was rebooted and ready to go. I immediately went into settings to the Chime option and it was already allowing me to configure.
I hit the button on the Doorbell and boom! Got the full song from the Digital Chime. I did get a delay in hearing the audible “Ding-dong” at the Doorbell and it took a few more seconds for the VoIP call and Alexa to start notifications, but the Digital Chime started playing it’s tune immediately and fully.
I’m assuming there is a capacitor either in the Doorbell or the Chime Controller that is charging which is why it took 35-40 minutes with my 16V 10VA transformer and no more than a couple of minutes with the 24V 40VA transformer. I’m assuming that this capacitor must be charged before the Doorbell will attempt to ring your Chime so it won’t brown-out and reboot. Maybe one of the Wyze Engineers can give us some insight on this.
I got the transformer installed and I appear to be good to go now. Plus no more waiting 30-40 minutes for the Chime Controller to be ready to configure.
You are correct, I double checked and will fix my statement above. It only requires a 16V 10VA transformer, but that is the minimum of what it will need. If the transformer is old or depending on the length of wire in the house the voltage could drop below that minimum.
I have upgraded to a 24V 40VA transformer and everything is working now. Luckily my transformer is mounted in a very easy to access location and it was a direct drop-in replacement.
In addition, after replacing it I didn’t have to wait 30-40 minutes for the chime to be ready to configure, so the Doorbell and/or Chime Controller seem to be much happier now. Do you know if that is related to a capacitor charging in either the Doorbell or Chime Controller so it is ready to operate the chime?
Nah, I’m not going to mess with that. I’m just going to replace the transformer and be done with it.
And I would be leary of such a direct-wired configuration long term. Despite Wyze not properly anticipating the transformer load situation with some 16V 10VA systems, that chime controller is there for a reason. I’m still trying to reverse engineer it’s theory of operation in my head.
I could not get my indoor chime to work with the Wyze Chime Controller but it does work with my Nest Doorbell Chime Controller. Should I be OK operating with the Chime Controller?
I am currently working with the team to find out the best options and possibilities for those it is not working for. I will see if I can find anything out about your specific situation also.
I just came here to say “me too.” I tried removing the chime controller and putting the wiring back to the way it was, but that makes my mechanical chime hum.
Have you tried pressing the button multiple times? If what you said about the capacitor is true, then pressing the button again before the capacitor gets to recharge would experience the same problem?
It sounds like a fix may be to install a higher voltage/amperage transformer (24v/30-40a) but I’ll wait to see what Wyze says. In the meantime I enabled the notifications in Alexa which will work for now. I’d rather not mess with uninstalling the new video doorbell for what may be just a few days.
I do have one question though. My chime and any others that I looked at are 16v. Are we asking for trouble if we hook them up to a 24v transformer?
Found an article that says using a 24v transformer for a 16v door chime may work but it may also shorten the life of the chime. The article suggests that a proper resistor can be used to reduce the voltage to the chime. I wonder if the controller manages this and only supplies 16v to the chime regardless of a higher supply voltage.
I’m no electrician, but it seems to me the chime controller is in place to bypass the transformer/chime connection so that a current is not constantly running through them to power the video doorbell, causing the hum. I’m in the same situation with the chime not working with the chime controller connected, so I’m going to replace the transformer because I’m a glutton for punishment and/or stubborn.
I have an electronics background. Can’t speak for an electronic chime, but in my opinion a mechanical chime should have no active components, and only a passive coil. That coil would only be infrequently and momentarily energized when the doorbell is activated. This is assuming that the chime controller is properly wired. If a coil was energized and running continuously, then longevity might be an issue. Someone with background and experience on this can correct me.
