Wyze Cam Pan caught fire/melted

what is the output if each usb. are they paired? like 2A if using one usb or 1A if using both usb?

You know that’s an arc between the contacts right? So the fire was caused by either bent contacts or crud on either of the two contacts. So the problem is not with the internals power adapter.

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Yes and no, The power adapter shouldn’t be able to draw enough power from the 117VAC outlet to start a fire usu. a fuse or temp disconnect prevents this from happening.
The output needs to be designed to limit the current and voltage that can cause sparks in a device’s power and signal conductors, Intrinsic safety (IS).
The plug and socket material must be flame retardant and not give off toxic gases at high tempeture.

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The 4 port USB inputs has a 4.2A max charging power surge protection. Lights Charge from red to green when USB device is charged.

So it seems the V2’s are using continuous power unlike before.

Has nothing to do with the amount of current it’s drawing. It’s the plasma created by the gap arc caused by a weak contact. And point is that the fire was outside the device. It happened at a 130vac contact point. There’s no way for the internals to know there’s an arc at the plug contact.

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Thats not good. The Li-ION battery will start to warp after a time. There could be a theral runaway! If you shut down the V2 will the battery charge to 100% and stop drawing power from the charger?

Yes it will.
What ever I charged on it will turn green when full charged.

Only the V2’s will remain red after the FW update.

Before that update it always turned green after a reboot.

Heat transfer to prong can cause a fusable link to disconnect. It does’t need to know the cause for heat, only that it must disengauge.
These links are unseen protectors in your car and on many plugs and power supplies.
Yes, get an arc protected outlet to prevent this in the future.

We do not know if this tripped tge breaker/fused.

New receptacle and Romax wires these days uses lower copper conten. If you compare an older receptacle with a new one.
you will find the machine stamped brass metal is thinner and the contact spring has less force so as less “Cintact Wipe”. Thus, higher “Contact Resistance” means high heat generated in that area. Arcing is likely. less metal surfaces, receptacle heat dissipation is less.

If you cannot feel resistance when you insert tge Any plugs, your receptacle is of risk develop high contact resistance. It could also be the plug blade thickness.

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I wish more people knew this, the electricity needs to flow smoothly, a gap will cause an arc, corrosion or other material causes resistance therefore causing heat. When you plug something in it needs to fit firmly, if you can wiggle it or if it can be easily pulled out, you need to find out why.

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Only if that fusible link is on the prong where it’s arcing (which was inside the socket).

Guess I’m not that smart. :innocent: Took a spoon and stuck the end in a flame over the stove and the other end of the handle got really hot :exclamation: :thermometer: probably too expensive anyway. . .

MICROTEMP thermal fuses offer an accurate, reliable solution to the need for upper limit temperature protection against overheating by interrupting an electrical circuit when operating temperatures exceed the rated temperature.

Dont know how I got off on this tangent. There was:

Just adding to the conversation for anyone else searching this.

Happened to me too. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out how to submit a ticket but I did get chat support and was $10 store credit. (Ticket #1778367)
I bought this when they first came out so it’s definitely not under warranty! :smile:

I’m glad nothing terrible happened because I wasn’t home when this occurred. I walked into a room with a very strong electrical burn odor and freaked out trying to figure out what it was.


thanks for posting. This should remind me to check the temperature of the base of pan cam.

I would imagine Wyze is primarily concerned about somebody dying in a house fire. Especially after this is well documented.

Somebody dies and they’ll be trying to figure out…

A. Will they be sued into oblivion
B. Will there be criminal charges
C. Can I quietly update my resume and run away in the night

I personally love it when things blow up and/or catch fire. But that’s just me. Other people, not so much.

(update: this response was to a now deleted post from mrtunes3118) Wrong conclusion! The Wyze power supply was a victim of this thermal runaway event which actually occurred at the Hot (black wire) terminals of the outlet. Yes, the prong of the power supply got very hot and burned the Wyze power supply, but the heat came from the outlet. (update: OP image of burnt power supply is now deleted)

This outlet had pass-through wiring connection (see two white leads, and two burnt black leads) to an appliance at some downstream outlet in the house. The appliance drew substantial steady current through the loose black lead connection, probably loose screw connection (or the back wire spring contact used in older 15A outlets). BTW, the new Arc Fault breakers protect against this type of wiring failure.

The load was likely a space heater or air conditioner that pulled high continuous current through a poor connection of this outlet long enough to heat it red-hot for this much plastic to burn. The plastic of the outlet is required to have flame rating UL 94 V-0 (“burning stops within 10 seconds on a vertical specimen; drips of particles allowed as long as they are not inflamed.”). This outlet burned a LONG TIME but notice the entire outlet didn’t burn, that is because the plastic has the flame retardant mixed in and it self-extinguishes).

Can the original poster confirm what appliance lost power after this burnt up outlet happened?

I’m curious how Wyze handled this, even though it was not their fault. It is typical to not deflect misplaced blame because making the homeowner happy ASAP is less expensive than the litigation required to defend this. (I am an electrical engineer who designed many power products and investigated several product fires for multiple employers).

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Unless someone has their power adapter/outlet surrounded by kindling, the odds of it starting an actual fire are quite low. The plastics used in any rated device (see JamieRI’s reply) will be of a type that might burn, but will tend toward self extinguishing rather than accelerated combustion.

Even wood paneling (such as my home has) doesn’t tend to be as easy to ignite as most people believe. Drywall certainly isn’t going to go up in flames from a brief ignition of an electrical device.

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To your point, a lot of exciting flame was emitted by the outlet, yet the plastic box didn’t burn enough to ignite the adjacent stud in the wall, which can certainly burn. Airflow is needed for the stud to ignite, that is why holes for wiring and pipes through the top and bottom plates of the wall framing should be calked. Fire Blocking Basics: What Every Homeowner Needs to Know | Family Handyman