I should move my v1 to the hub but I still have them all connected to my bridge that is in my PanCam from when I was trying to figure out why so many had issues with the bridge being in a PanCam
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I did. I was able to add all 6 of my offline V1 motion and contact sensors back. Easiest add ever. Then two days later, within 2 hours all were offline.
I firmly believe we are victims now of blocking of V1 sensors because of activity caused by the HA API. (Almost over my head trying to explain that. But described in a couple of other threads here.)
Good idea. I can do that as well – I can add a v1 Motion and contact sensor as well.
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I also ordered 2 more v3 camera’s to test the connection issues. I am going to have one be a control camera, no Card in it and another be my test camera and put a SD Card in it. Then I can see which one will start having issues. Will be fun and interesting. At least to me. 
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Not a victim here and have a hideous amount of sensors. Then again, I’m not using HA. I thought I read somewhere that Wyze backed off from throttling HA pings.
Here’s my new thread that I created right after they started working again.
This method works
This is interesting, Is there any way to recover the mac address so you know which one to flash? the case for my one dead sensor is long gone, so I cant just look at the sticker.
Edit: Nevermind, I bricked it when windows blue-screened during an attempted flash. oh well.
I commend him/them for figuring it out. I have 6+ that are offline won’t join back and are not dead. There’s something else going on in Wyze that’s have an impact.
You are right Sam, magic [Mod Edit] happens there. I’ve experienced device changes NOT instituted by me
MOD NOTE: Post edited to conform to the Community Guidelines.
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Yes. The MAC is stored at 0x!FFCC, There is a tab in the Smart Flash Programmer 2 to read it.
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Sorry for the delay in updates on what I’ve had going on with my Wyze v1 sensors. On a whim I bought a Wyze USB bridge off Ebay and installed it one of my cameras, and was able to connect my old v1 sensors to this new bridge and one of my old bridges.
So while two of my original USB bridges exhibit normal behavior with the LEDs and voice prompts form the camera I cannot join any sensors to them, So, possibly two of my bridges went bad?
I will continue to experiment with replacement usb bridges.
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Me too. Same issues. Mine went from falling to offline over a week or two to completely not working. Hate to give up on them because of their small sizes. Then about three weeks ago, on a whim, I tried. All six came back up with an add device on the app. Easiest effort ever. One attempt each from 20 feet from bridge. Never been that easy before. Then two days later, all six offline again within 2 hours total of each. Nothing I did. I am sorry to say it, but I think Wyze is messing with us and disabling them.
Well, the old saying is “the proofs in the puddin”
Hello! This sounds like it will work for me. Before ordering the USB converter I tried to see if the bootloader was enabled by shorting the RX to GND, then applying power and releasing and the light stayed on solid.
I need help on fully understanding the workflow. I see you
doing a backup of the CC1310 - do you then modify THIS backup to have the desired MAC at the proper locations as can be found from wyzeback posting?
I want to make sure to NOT use the wyzesense_door_AABBCCDD.bin.
Also can you confirm the contents of the firmware for offset 1ffd8?
The wyseback bin has 00 01 FE 00 in that location.
I am ready to order the adapter for $6 from Amazon once I am sure about the workflow - and Thanks again!
The MAC is stored at 0x!FFCC
Use that to modify the filename of wyzesense_door_AABBCCDD.bin
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The backup is not necessary, but it’s a good idea to do it in case you need the original image later.
You DO need to use the wyzesense_door_AABBCCDD.bin file. Before you flash it, edit the file (use a hex editor or wyzeback’s script) so that it has your device’s own MAC address, and manually change the bytes at 1FFD8 to C5 01 FE C5 so the bootloader/backdoor is re-enabled (you will not be able to use the serial method again without this change). If you’re interested in what the numbers mean, it’s described here:
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Hi Null, thanks so much for fully clarifying what you did, and what
I need to do.
Also thanks for the reference on bootloader interface. I tried googling
a little and could only find references to higher level language
macros and header files.
It looks like Amazon will get the little converter out to me by Thurs,
so I am looking forward to getting this second sensor up and running!
I started getting battery low warnings on the still working mailbox
sensor on Friday, and that got me looking into this issue after
I was told about the MAC issue.
- Mark
the wyze app currently does show low battery notifications in the notification area, which is good, but what is really needed is the wyze app to trigger a “low battery” email .
Alternatively Wyze could add an IFTTT event, and then we could add the email part . There exists a “Low battery is detected” IFTTT event for the outdoor wyze cam, I cannot fathom why they didnt add an IFTTT event at the same time for the wyze sense, when they know that leaving the low battery bricks the sensor?!!
Don’t hold your breath waiting for Wyze to do the right or sensible thing. They’ve proven time and time again that is not in their tool box.
I drilled small holes in every one of my sensors so I can measure battery voltage with my probes without having to open up the sensor to test batteries.
What’s really interesting is that if Wyze is able to send a low battery warning then they have the capability for each sensor to display a voltage reading but they never thought to add this simple feature.
If there is one thing I have learned defines Wyze it is a fatal lack of imagination, which is just tragic for a tech company.