Unbricking Wyze Contact Sensor - pcb reset pin

My v1 sensors are grouped and they repeatedly send low battery notifications until battery is replaced. I just replaced the battery on a v1 contact sensor today.

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Interesting. I wonder why some people aren’t getting the notifications then.

I definitely get them on my ungrouped sensors. I get them all the time.

You are getting them on grouped sensors (I might also be getting them for grouped sensors, but I haven’t really paid attention…most of the ones I have grouped are ones I rarely to ever use or think about).

Is your notification setting toggled on for them? Maybe that’s what’s needed? I always leave the main toggle on even if the sub-toggles for open/closed notifications are toggled off.

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Perhaps difficult to distinguish audible from other notifications and then swiped away?

Yes, main and sub-toggles. Also have DND exception enabled for WyzeMessage channel.

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Since this has come up recently, I thought I’d show that I have been getting low battery notifications for one of my V1 contact sensors all day today. It’s named “Siren Silence” because if I open or close that sensor it triggers a rule to silence ALL the sirens.

I think I got 4 notifications about low battery from this V1 sensor today. So I am definitely getting them. Not sure why others aren’t. That is really weird.

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Maybe if there were a toggle for low battery notification, it might work. This is my setup.

Wyze guy posted:“The MAC address is printed on the sticker on the back of the device and is easily recovered,”
Are we sure about this cause the only good sensor I have left that paired to the wyze app and under device Mac in the app doesn’t match what’s on the back label. I it even seems to be a diffrent format.

Well, if you mix-N-Match your back covers thinking it does not make any difference, then yes, they will not match!
I am not sure what you are referring to about a different format.

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And that is why only an idiotic company of the first order would dream of putting MAC addresses on dumb pieces of plastic like mounting plates or battery covers, smh

Seriously, who does that?

My last one just died. This whole thing just pisses me off to no end! It’s not expensive, but to me it’s the principle. A company should not be allowed to profit off of junk then not want to support it. Just wow they hands clean of any responsibility. :rage:
Curious, had anybody started any class action against this thieving company? They should have been made to pay all of their customers for knowing about the security issue that that day on for 3 years without addressing. May be some of you were compensated in some way, but I was not.
I gotta research how to get a class action started.

V1 Motion Sensor went offline this week. Could not add sensor back to the V1 Bridge after removing it. Turns out that the mac on this MOTION sensor is now 00000000. I thought this only happens to the CONTACT sensors! The battery voltage was 3V and I was never notified by the app that the battery was low.

V1 motion sensors and contact sensors have the same problem you mentioned. And unfortunately the v2 sensors have what appears to be the same hardware design other than the power supply being modified to use AAA batteries, so they may be susceptible to the same issue.

The V2 sensors no longer use button cell batteries, so their battery life is much longer. I have had one V2 motion sensor and two V2 contact sensors in service for over three years (and many others in service for less time than that), and they are all still working on their original batteries. One of my V2 sensors just reported low battery for the first time about a month ago, but the battery level has read “normal” ever since with no more low battery warnings. But I am definitely concerned about premature death if the batteries ever do die.

Regarding the fact that the battery voltage was 3V on your failed device, those button cell batteries will often read a normal voltage when tested with a volt meter, but even the slightest power draw will cause the actual voltage to drop significantly. I experienced that phenomenon many, many times when trying to figure out what was going on with my huge collection of v1 sensors. Put a 35mA load on the battery (similar to the bootup power draw) when you’re measuring the voltage with a meter, and the voltage will drop well below the 2.7V needed to keep the motion sensor working properly. And when that happens, the MAC address problem you experienced can occur. A horrible design.

Thanks for the info about button cell voltage drops under load.

I have moved that Null-MAC V1 Motion Sensor to my Home Monitoring System that runs on an ESP32. Since I only have 1 Null motion sensor, the software can still uniquely identify it. I also have 2 Null contact sensors that my system treats as the same sensor.

If you have the time (you will need lots of time) and the money to buy the Texas Instruments development board (around $30, if I remember correctly), the ‘wyzeback’ method for restoring firmware works to get everything back to normal, but only if you have saved a copy of the firmware from a sensor before it fails. On each sensor, the MAC address and some other string of bytes is stored - numbers that are unique to each sensor. To connect the sensor using Wyze, the sensor must have both of those unique numbers properly programmed. And the only place to get the second number is to read the sensor firmware (the MAC can be read from the sticker on the back).

A smart idea if you have the time and the Texas Instruments development board would be to read the firmware from every sensor which has not yet failed. Then, if it fails, reprogram that firmware and all will be well again.

Or be sure to replace batteries before they get low. Or just buy more sensors if the old ones die - and be prepared to replace those if they die.

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If anyone wants or knows how to unbrick, send me a message. I will mail you my collection of bricked motion and contact sensors. Just pay for shipping. And if can unbrick them, keep them, FREE!

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those interested in keeping their Wyze sensors working, please do consider voting for this improvement:

These V1 door sensors are getting expensive. You are lucky to find a Wyze V1 Sensor kit SEALED in the box for under $30 shipped. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy the kit that includes a V2 camera too.

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I try to keep up with them, but sometimes I miss the low battery. This year I lost two of the motion V1 sensors because the battery went too low. This is frustrating .

With a raspberry pi and home assistant, you can use tuya compatible sensors with wyze devices. that’s the solution I’ve landed on.

I like the small size of the Wyze V1 sensors. I picked up extras on eBay. But before I tap into those boxes, I wanted to exhaust Wyze I had already been using where I needed small ones. In order to do that, I swapped some Yolink sensors that are 2-3 times larger to places where Wyze V1’s were, but could sub using the Yolink. Yolink has such a long long battery life, they are so very handy. I use Alexa to combine different manufacurers vice using Wyze or Yolink rules.

Oh man, I wish I’d read this before attempting to flash mine using the reddit method. All I did was change the AABBCCDD to my MAC and tried to flash mine, as that’s all his instructions said to do. It got so far, then Flash Programmer 2 reported “FLASH_FAILED”. Power cycling the sensor results in complete DOA, no LED flashing at all. I was able to get into bootloader again, but all subsequent attempts to flash instantly results in “FLASH_FAILED”. This is because I didn’t re-enable the back door by changing those bytes? Is the only way to rescue it is by buying the $30 dev board?

Definitely not worth it if that’s the case.