Without the spotlight on they seem to fluctuate between 250 and 400mA. Spotlight, speaker, etc will bump that up some. I figure if Wyze is allocating 750 to each in the stack kit, they must be pretty confident that they won’t actually hit that much.
It sounds like from the OPs description that the one cable length is fairly log. Getting a larger power source is the easy part. No amount of “larger power source” will compensate for voltage drop in a long cable. Your best bet would be to get a voltage regulator that you hook up to the camera end of the cable. Supply 12 volts to the cable and regulate it down to the required 5 volts at or near the cameras. Most likely will require at least a little DIY.
They make pre-made kits for that, often using POE and ethernet cable, but they seem to not want to run another cable. Need more info on length and cable type to really see what is feasible or not.
i have no idea what guge it is. it’s whatever gauge the wire that comes with the outdoor adapter comes with lol. i guess i can look that up. hold
from google
" es, the Wyze Outdoor Power Adapter and compatible bundles can reliably power two Wyze Cam OGs or other compatible cameras using a splitter cable. The included 1.5A adapter and splitter cable are designed to work with two cameras simultaneously, though using a 2A or higher adapter is recommended for longer cable runs or if experiencing power issues.
The Wyze Outdoor Power Adapter cable wire gauge is 20 AWG (American Wire Gauge). It is a 2-conductor (2C) cable. This gauge is suitable for low-voltage applications and compatible with the power requirements of Wyze outdoor cameras. "
i googled “Micro USB Female to 2x Micro USB Male” splitter and literally the first one had a guy reviewing him using it for two wyze cameras lol.
so i bought it,
and i also bought and i also bougt this
i’ll try splitting and see how that works, if not i’ll just have to be out there running that wire in this 100F heat…again 
all this tecnical jargon is making my head hurt lol.
thanks so much for everyones suggestions…i’ll figure this ish out
If you’re just using the wyze outdoor adapter and no additional cable, the length won’t be an issue. But the 2 amp limit may be. Guess the only way to know is to try, and see if you have any intermittent issues over time. It would probably only happen when the Pan is moving around and has its IR lights on, and the v4 also has the spotlight and/or IR lights on or you try to talk through them, etc.
I think for normal everyday use it might be just enough, but I’d probably not use the spotlight feature on the v4, and if possible don’t run the IR (night mode) on both cams at the same time either. If the pan cam is not in “pan/scan” or “track motion” mode that should help it use less power too.
With the splitter, it doesn’t look like it will fit in the “boot” that the cams include, maybe if you stretch it. Even with the boot, not a bad idea to use some sealing tape on all the connections since you’re going to have several junctions.
I know, but the OP is trying not to have to run an additional or replacement cable, Hence my comment about at least some DIY to use the existing cable.
The cable he’s run is the Wyze Outdoor adapter so no way to put any sort of voltage regulator in the path or bump up the DC voltage etc. So that solution will require new cable no matter what.
Hopefully the 2A with splitter and relatively short USB section of the outdoor adapter will handle it.
Absolutely NOT. Cut the connectors off both end and you have wire. Wire the source end to a 12 or even 24 volt power supply. At the camera end, wire it to one or two voltage regulators to produce the 5 volts needed. As I said, some DIY, but fairly easy to do.
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I think both of you guys are confusing the heck out of the OP 
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been confused lol
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No, you don’t. Look at the outdoor power adapter. The AC to DC rectifier/transformer is in the middle of the run.
Regardless, it makes no sense to chop up a $20 adapter in order to use the $2 worth of USB cable, when the run is not long enough for voltage drop to be an issue.
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I had to use a really long extension cord and plugged my Wyze bricks into it, as all the power supplies from Wyze or Amazon with a splitter just wouldn’t work for power on two cameras. That solved my problem.
A single supply can do it but you probably ran into cable length issues, USB is really only good for 15 feet before the voltage drop is too much, and that gets even worse with the thin flat cables. You can sometimes push it to 20 or 25, but better to do it the way you did (I did the same).
Unless you use a USB active extension cable
I have several cameras that are connected to these.
Jeff says I bought them in July 2023. They are still going strong.
I think you just got lucky. That is a data repeater to regenerate the data signal, it does not do anything about voltage drop for power, even says not to use it with cameras or other “high power” (which with USB 2.0 is actually pretty low power) devices.
- NOTE: Does not work for charging smartphones or tablets; not recommended for webcams, video cameras, devices with high power consumption, or home-theater electronics.
Really the only way to account for voltage drop is to increase the diameter of the wires (and also ensure your power supply has a bit of extra current available), or use something like PoE that can increase the input voltage to account for the drop. You could homebrew something with an adjustable voltage supply but that’s going to be risky and not very practical.
I have three of these that have been in use for 2 years outside shielded from the rain and snow.
Technically it shouldn’t work like technically a bumblebee shouldn’t be able to fly.
I remember when HEI ignition was introduced. It supplied about 60kv through the spark plug wires to compensate for the increased spark plug gap that was increased because of a lean fuel mixture.
I went to an actual GM training class to learn about this thing that replaced points and condenser. We were told to NEVER pull a spark plug wire on a running HEI engine because the voltage would blow a hole in your elbow trying to find ground. I’ve been bit but it is brief because your muscles don’t contract and you can let go. One thing I learned from experience is never lean over the fender when pulling a plug wire. Sure wakes up Willy.
I’m not saying it shouldn’t work, just that the “active repeater” portion isn’t actually doing anything in your scenario, a standard USB cable of the same length and gauge would work the same way. My guess is the wires in that are a heavier gauge than many cheaper or flat USB cables so that part is probably helping some.
I never had any experience with HEI but I did work at a drag strip decades ago and the MSD ignitions on a dragster or funny car would easily send you to your grave. They were high voltage and current.
That was wicked nasty. For those not in the know, MSD is a company that makes ignition systems for race cars and race car wannabes. MSD means Multiple Spark Discharge. A regular ignition system provides a single spark to the spark plug during the power stroke. This design works great for production vehicles, but when the spark plug is in a race engine, they want to squeeze every bit of that fuel vapor into power. MSD also uses a whopper of a coil, capable of delivering more than the 60Kv of the HEI. When you grab an HEI wire, it zaps you pretty good, but the MSD can cause pain because you are not getting zapped once, but multiple times. I can verify it hurts. Problem with pulling plug wires on a running engine is that the involuntary jerk when you get zapped could cause your elbow to hit something or get caught in the fan. I always used spark plug wire pliers that are insulated, but I have been bit pulling a MSD wire because it has so much power it could jump an inch gap.
I seem to remember a car manufacturer having their version of a multiple spark discharge on their premium models.
Chrysler got around this by using two spark plugs per cylinder in their new HEMI that wasn’t a real HEMI but a Mercedes design. Hemispherical combustion chambers are the only thing these engines have in common.
I’ll put a ‘60s HEMI up against that German over engineered HEMI and give you 50 feet. Get those cubes pumping.
But Chrysler specifies plain copper Champion spark plugs for the Mercedes HEMI that are to be replaced every 30000 miles. Normal spark plug replacement intervals are usually around 120k when platinum or iridium plugs are specified.
My Avalon had 126000 miles when I replaced the spark plugs. They looked fine, not much different from a new plug. Gap was a smidgen wider than the new plug.
A buddy has a HEMI in his RAM truck and was due for spark plugs. He was the guinea pig and let me put Champion iridium plugs in. The cost of the 16 iridium plugs was considerably more than the copper version. But the labor to replace them offsets the price of the iridium plugs. It’s been about 70k miles and the spark plugs should have been replaced by now if they were copper. His fuel mileage has not changed, same power, no check engine light. I pulled a plug and it looked like a typical platinum spark plug.
I’m sure the Mercedes engineers know a whole lot more than I do. There is a reason to put copper plugs in. To get the vehicle in the shop more often.
Most mechanics will agree that Mercedes vehicles require more maintenance than a Toyota. Mercedes owners rarely balk at the price of servicing their status symbol.
Now I feel like @carverofchoice with my rambling
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Tom, you are bringing back some great Mopar memories for me. My first car I bought was a 1970 Barracuda. Mine had a 318, but I always wanted a 440 with the six pack carbs like in this video.
