Help!!! I am about to install a new Netgear Orbi 370 Router to replace an old laggy off brand router. I cannot find an installation procedure that would allow my Wyze devices (Home Monitoring, Cameras, Sensors, etc.) to work seamlessly after installation. If any of you has done a router replacement, please post or send me tips and tricks to make this a seamless transition to my new Router. The problem I have is that, most of my devices are not connecting to my new router even though I kept the same SSID. Help!!!
I assume you also kept the save password? That’s as important as keeping the same network name.
Once you’ve turned on the new router, try unplugging some of the cameras for at least 10 seconds, and then plugging them back in. That should force them to search for the new network from scratch.
Sometimes, devices can struggle to connect to a new network for various reasons, including that your new network has some different identifiers and may be trying to use a totally different channel, but if you restart the device, usually it will search all the channels until it finds the right SSID.
If your devices are still having problems, you can leave them alone for a day or so and they will usually figure it out. A lot of it Kind of depends on your router protocols. Worst case scenario, you may have to go through setup again on your devices and that will definitely force them to connect from scratch. You don’t need to delete them from the app first or anything like that, Just go through the setup process.
So, basically my suggestions are as follows:
- Make sure you are using the same. SSID and password. If your router allows you to choose the channel number, and you know what the channel number was on the old router, maybe make sure to select the same channel.
- If number one doesn’t work, unplug your cameras or other devices from power for at least 10 seconds and then plug them back in. That should usually solve the issue.
- Just leave the devices online overnight, and they will often figure it out within a day or so. A lot of how long it takes can depend on the new router you switch to. I have had some take around a day before the devices would automatically connect to the new router, and I have had some that switch almost immediately.
- Worst case scenario, just go through setup again on the devices that aren’t connecting. That will definitely fix the issue.
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Thanks for your quick response. Yes, I’ve kept everything the same. The only change is the technology, which is WiFi 7. The router says it is backward compatible to all other WiFi versions. I will try your Suggestion #3. Suggestion #4 is very labor intensive as I have 42 devices including sensors, lights, switches and cameras and some require access via ladder which I can’t do due to my knee operation. Thanks again.
Even though you kept the same SSID and Password, make sure both are set exactly the same. The SSID is also Case Sensitive, so if you had AbcD as an SSID and made it ABcD, it will not always allow connections from devices.
Also, make sure you are set for Mesh to include the 2.5 band. In addition, not sure if this is still an issue, but make sure you are not using WPA3 for encryption
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Check your new router’s security protocol. Set it to WPA2.
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This was my exact thought when I began reading this topic. I don’t know what settings are available on a Netgear Orbi, but I know that some of my Wyze devices have difficulty connecting if I have the closest wireless access point set to use WPA2/WPA3. If I limit that to WPA2, then I tend to have a better experience with those.
Welcome to the Forum, @ackiko2711! 
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Agree with all that’s been said. They are spot on. One more thing you can do and will not hurt and could make a difference. Look at the cable modem’s lights. Generally speaking, there are 4 or 5 when everything is working right. One is actually “sees” the connection to the router’ Not important which one. Plug it back in now. Just that there’s usually one for that connection. Example: unplug the router from the cable modem. Did a light go off. Make note.
Turn cable modem off, turn router off.
Wait a minute or two.
Turn cable modem back on. Wait. Give it about two minutes. All those light should be back on except the “router” light. Now, once all the other lights are back on.
Turn on/power on the router. Watch for that router light to come back on. Give it a couple of minutes and restart Wyze hub give it a couple of minutes, now check your Wyze devices.
Rule of thumb: We ALWAYS turn everything off. Then we ALWAYS turn farthest from computer on first. Outside (cable/cable modem) first, give it a minute. router (give it a minute) (IoT hubs and computer) Not a bad idea to restart hubs and computer last. When they are last, everything has had a chance to boot up and they are ready to “hand you an IP address/connection.
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I can’t believe I forgot to think of the WPA2 issue 
The newer router very well may default to WPA3. Definitely worth checking that out.
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It’s on my mind because of my previous issues with it and because I’m router shopping. 
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WPA3 has so many compatibility issues with hundreds of my IoT devices that I basically never consider using it yet, so I never think about it. I do leave on the compatibility mode that will use either WPA2/WPA3, but since that means leaving WPA2 on anyway, it makes WPA3 almost entirely pointless for my system at the moment. I keep forgetting that a lot of newer routers still try to force everything to run on WPA3 by default and I take for granted that other people don’t think about this.
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I’ve said before, I tinker with different routers. (I currently have three sets of three). And I take notice of “defaults”. I remember seeing that where it shows WP3, its also using not just WP3, but shows “WP2/WP3” I wrote that off in my head as manufacturers slowly transitioning us to WP3 sort of giving us a WP2/WP3 setting.
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Transition mode is exactly that, to allow you to migrate, more designed for companies etc. In reality long term use of 2/3 mixed defeats the purpose, not really buying much.
My main network is WPA3 only and my IOT and guest networks are WPA2 only. Those two are isolated and heavily firewalled so not really as concerned with security there.
I have seen devices that have issues with the 2/3 transition mode so if anything it can do more harm than good.
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Same here. 
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I’’m running some GL-iNet GL-BE9300 Wi-Fi 7 routers (as access points) and ran into a similar problem only to realize that in the interest of speed, they defaulted 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi to less than the full compatibility stack.
Upon checking the Wi-Fi mode I found that I had to enable mode “11b/g/n/ax/be” to regain access for all of my older devices. So some routers “support” backwards compatibility, but don’t necessarily default to having them all enabled as well.
Fun times….
Yeah a lot of routers are defaulting to eliminate b and g and in some cases n. Most wyze cams should work fine in n/ax/be mode but some old ones probably need g enabled (“draft N” devices or early 802.11N required the lower beacon rates in order to connect). I still have a couple old N devices like that.
The only other thing that would suggest is to turn off the IP/MAC Reservation option on your router, if it is on. A couple years ago I got a new modem, set it all up with the same settings as my old modem and all of my Wyze cameras refused to reconnect. Ended up having to reset them all one by one. Either way, the cameras don’t seem to like their IP address changing and don’t handle is very well.
If you are really impatient, you can temporarily set your DHCP lease time to 1 minute to allow everything to get whatever IP a little quicker.
Season’s Greetings! I’m likely blind and may have missed it, but did you separate the 2.4 & 5ghz channels or are they both on one SSID and the router is using Steering?
Your new router will probably be set to 5g. That’s good for UHD TV’s. For remote cam’s and many other devices they run on 2.4G. It is easy to create a 2.4 SSID and password in the new router so you have 5G and 2.4. Log your cam into 2.4.
I’ve yet to see any router that disables 2.4Ghz by default. What they do often do is disable some of the older technologies like B and G, which some N devices still require for the initial connection/discovery.
You don’t have to use two separate SSIDs for your two bands, but certain routers and scenarios may call for it. Mostly a matter of personal preference and situation. When people do want something like this, I recommend they set up their main SSID as shared across bands for the most flexibility, then set up two guest ones with “5G” and “2G” or whatever so they have the option of locking a device to one or the other. That gives the best of both worlds.
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My Cox Panamoric wifi was setup to provide only one SSID 5G. I know that 2.4 devices are supposed to connect to that and run behind the scenes at 2.4, however I had a couple devices like an older Alexa and MyQ garage opener that refused to connect. It is easy to go into the router wifi setup and create a separate 2.4 to use on all devices in the house except the UHD tv’s which are happier with 5G. Wyze cams run fine on 2.4 and 2.4 actually travels farther than 5G.
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