New System

I want to set up a system for my RV. I want 4 cameras with spotlights. Do I need a hub? I don’t want paid monitoring. I have a IPhone which I assume I can get notifications and view videos?
Recommendations would be appreciated, I am new to Wyze, but it seems like the cost effective answer to my system

No the V3s do not require a hub but they require Internet access. Do you have a router in your RV with always available Internet? If not, these may not be the system for you.

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Yes, there will be a router in the RV, so what is the purpose of the hub?

There is no hub. There is only a hub for the battery powered Wyze Cam Outdoor, not the wired V3 models referenced in your post.

Edit: If you do buy the WCO models (I wouldn’t recommend it) then they rely on the hub which in turn connects to your router.

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Why don’t you recommend the WCO?

As long as you have internet it will work go set them up easy,less than 6 minutes and your done

There are many compromises in order to conserve battery life. And the camera does not even wake up for recording until a couple of seconds after the motion starts.

Thanks, appreciate the advice

Run, Run far away from the WCO a V3 is your best bet.

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Not sure if you plan to run the cameras from A.C. power or your RV’s 12 volt battery system?

If you run off your RV’s 12 volt battery system you may want to visit this link below for some ideas
A.C. Power Failure Battery Back-Up for 14 V3 cams and Internet Communications

If your RV does have A.C. power running off the battery has the advantage of keeping the cameras and internet up if A.C. power is lost due to power failure or someone unplugging your shore power cable.
If your RV does not have a built in Charging system for either the Engine Vehicle battery or an onboard deep-cycle battery the unit in the link below I use on many setups, NOCO has quality products.
NOCO Genius GEN5X1, Battery Charger Maintainer

If your RV has a separate 12 volt deep-cycle battery that already has a charging system that charges while on A.C. power or while engine is running even better.

If you do decide to run on 12v Battery power you should have a LVD (Low Voltage Disconnect) to keep from overly discharging the battery whether it be a deep-cycle or just the Engine battery.

If your RV has Solar Power to charge the deep-cycle battery system then the Solar Charge Controller will likely control LVD to the LOAD Output connections.

I use these to regulate the 12 volt battery power down to 5 volts and they have a Micro-USB connector compatible with the V3 Wyze Cams - Several links below as Amazon link is “Currently out of Stock”
Amazon Link to 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable <— Out of stock but could be back anytime…

I prefer the Amazon one above because it is weatherproof and I have used those outside for years without any issues - Links Below is for similar 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter regulators on E-Bay
E-Bay Link to 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable <---- Closely resembles the ones I have used.
E-Bay Link to 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable <---- Closely resembles the ones I have used.
But neither one of these state they are weatherproof as the Amazon version above does.

This one below in link does state it is waterproof (IP-67) but is a different design, which would work also.
Amazon Link to IP-67 rated Waterproof 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapter cable <---- Best choice currently

If you don’t already have Solar with a Charge Controller that has LVD, I heavily suggest you install a Low Voltage Disconnect Module in your setup.
Link E-Bay search of Low Voltage Disconnect Modules (many to choose from) <---- I use the XH-M609

Below is a basic connection diagram for hooking up the LVD to battery and 12v to 5v Micro-USB Adapter

I highly recommend setting the LVD at 11.8 volts to disconnect on a Lead-Acid Deep Cycle Battery.
Chart below is for Lead-Acid Gel Cell Deep-Cycle Batteries.
State of Charge Lead-Acid Gel Cell
The Yellow Zone is where damage to a battery begins that shortens batteries lifespan
The Red Zone is extreme damage to battery.

A 12 volt Vehicle Battery does not use the chart above and I would not discharge a vehicle battery as low, Not sure on the lowest voltage you would be able to discharge a vehicle battery down to, so you may need to check your vehicle battery manufacturer specifications.

For wiring between Battery and LVD module to 12v to 5v Micro-USB adapters I recommend Low Voltage Landscape wiring commonly used for outside low voltage lighting.
Link to search on Amazon for Low Voltage Landscape Wire

The lower the Gauge (AWG) of wire the less voltage drop over distance, but the 12v to 5v Micro-USB Regulator Adapters can handle an input voltage as low as 8 volts so 16 or 14 Gauge (AWG) should be just fine as your distance to each Micro-USB adapter will be short so the drop will be minimal.


“And as always have a nice day”

quoted from my favorite YouTube educational videos of the Lock Picking Lawyer - another hobby of mine is lockpicking :upside_down_face: just for fun Only

In Real Life I am an Telecommunication & Electronics Engineer, and an IBEW Union Electrician


Thanks, the reason i was considering the WCO was I liked the idea of wireless, I am rethinking that and your info is very helpful!

The V3’s will outperform the WCO and also there are far less issues with the V3 than compared to the Wyze Outdoor Cam, just read the forum and you will see the WCO is problematic.

Also when the battery finally dies you’ll have just a brick as it is not easily replaceable.

I take it that since your wanting 4 cameras you are probably covering all 4 sides of RV?

You could mount the metal base rings permanently on the RV at desired locations and remove the V3’s when traveling as they will attach to the metal rings with the strong magnet in V3 base.

The Micro-USB adapters that were suggested have 13 inch cables and you could expose just enough cable for connection to V3 cam and seal with silicone any hole made to pass wire through to outside of RV, the V3 has around a 6 inch cable out the back of cam with the weatherproof boot that comes with the V3. Then just find some rubber or silicone caps to put on the Micro-USB ends while traveling to protect the connector when V3’s are taken down.

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I think I want to hire you as an installer. :slight_smile:


Depends on your location, Where you at?

I’m in the forest just North of Placerville, Ca.


Consider changing the post title from “New System” to maybe something like “New System for Wyze Cams on an RV”

That way others may find this post helpful in a similar request search…

At the top of your post there is a Pencil by the title for this post, Click the pencil and add above suggestion or your own with more info about being for use on an RV.

Damn Bryon that is some post! Very nice.

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Just in case. Just in case you are not going to be close by, to reset (power off and back on) the cameras, you might want to add wifi plugs so you can remote remove a camera’s power and restore it. Cameras getting “stuck” and needing to be reset, is not an everyday thing. But a little prevention can save you some pain later.

Wifi plugs are 120v, so keep that in mind. Wyze makes a wifi plug in a 2 pack for $15. Handy to have them in the same app, so you can scroll down/up to simply turn off and back on.

But if he does the 12 volt based system described in my post that 120 VAC WiFi plug won’t work.

But there is this for a 12 volt system😁
12 volt WiFi controlled relay