I have made myself many L and T-bracket supports for V2 cameras for myself and others. I like the brackets because they are sturdy, the camera is in its compact form, and they maintain aim, even when dusted. I was glad to see that V3s could readily be exchanged with the V2s.
Below are some pictures of a swap-out:
In addition to the home-made items in the above post, there are many commercially available and 3D printed items that may better fit your needs.
Victor Maletic.
I use 3D printer brackets. There are several prints available on Thingiverse. I like the printed simply because I can choose the best color/type for each cam location.
So these are just held with the magnets right? I was thinking of tryin to mount one upside down, under a soffit with a powerful magent on the other side holding it up. Not sure how well it would hold up.
I believe they are using the fake screw in the cas of the V2 as a “locator pin” to provide a stable mount that is not strictly dependent on the magnets for retention. The V3 has the ability to use a true threaded screw, so in the c3, that is used.
This can be important as using strictly magnetic retention, while providing excellent retention when force is exerted on the camera in a vertical direction, will fail if a relatively minor shear force is exerted in a lateral direction.
Hello extremehumvee84.
The magnet is strong enough to support the V3 upside down. My concern would be the camera being bumped off when dusting, or being knocked off by birds going after bugs near the camera. My upside down installations are secured with band of tape.
To mount a V3 upside down, I would remove the lower support carriage and use a 1/4" x 20 x 1" machine screw with a nut. I would also fill in the recieving recess in the bottom of the camera with a piece of plastic 2" x 1-3/4" x 1/8" with 5/16" dia hole in the center. This plastic filler would provide a solid clean looking installation.
Victor Maletic.
Hello alanizat and @xtremehumvee84.
I totally agree with you about the susceptibility of magnetic connections to shear forces. A way to counter shear forces is to place keeper posts or bars around the bottom the camera’s base.
The pictures of cameras in the link provided are all fake screws with no pinning action. A purely magnetic connection. The second picture is the exception. This camera has two mounting screws that pass through the camera’s base frame. The frame was hollow, so I filled it with epoxy for additional strength.
The reason I didn’t use anti-shear keepers was there are no places from which a critter could exert a shear force. In picture 2 the real mounting screws were to discourage human critters as it is mounted very low.
Hello People, this is a correction and a reply to anyone who read: Mounting a V3 on V2 L-brackets and such post #4. In post #4 I give dimensions of a shim plate that would be used to fill in the V3 camera’s base notch, making the installation nicer looking while eliminating potential bug habitat. For the shim plate to fit correctly it’s 1-3/4" width would need to be narrowed by 0.006" Also a 1/8" or more radius fillet needs to be filed or ground into each corner until the shim plate fits into the base notch, Below is provided a link to a dimensioned PDF file of the shim plate.
While I am here I want to share how the corner radii values were determined for the base shim. See picture 1 below. This only works if you are old enough to need an assortment of pills.
