Lock Bolt - Anyone Try Relocating the Keypad?

Uniquely to the Lock-Bolt, which can use an accessory remote keypad, AND the “stock” keypad seems to share no mechanical dependency with the bolt-turning inside part (except being the sockets to the mounting screws…) - the keypad looks like it could be “anywhere” that you could extend the wired connection to, if so skilled and inclined to try voiding your warranty to extend it.

Anyone try this yet?

My problem is I am looking to add these huge vertical-bar-like handles on my door which would obstruct the “stock” keypad. Would be super convenient to be able to relocate the keypad (yes, I know running the wire would be a pain - one crisis at a time, please) to maybe the nearby wall, or opposite edge of the door (despite likely looking a bit weird there).

Alternately, I could just not use the keypad at all, somehow figure out how to “dummy” and secure the bolt-turning portion with a blank plate on the outside, and add the “bluetooth” keypad somewhere nearby. Not as cool however, as I would have already paid for the stock keypad I would then have no use for.


This is the first I am hearing of the lock bolt being able to use an accessory remote keypad. I know the original lock could use a battery operated keypad, but that doesn’t work for the lock bolt. I admit that it’s possible Wyze could allow us to link one up to it directly through Bluetooth or through the VDBPro chime. I just didn’t think anything like that had been made possible at this time. If anyone can link me to an accessory remote keypad for the lock bolt or instructions for how to do this, I would like to look at it, please. Thanks.

As for the stock keypad with the fingerprint reader, you are correct that it doesn’t appear to have a mechanical function. That is all done with the inside half of the lock-bolt as far as I can see. Therefore, if you put something else on the outside of the deadbolt hole to hold the inside part onto the door securely, and drilled a hole in the door to extend the power/wiring from the keypad to be mounted somewhere else, you could probably do so. It seems like it would be a lot of extra work, but, yes, technically possible to put the stock keypad somewhere else other than the outside half of the door bolt hole.

What did you have in mind? Why would you want it mounted somewhere other than on the other side of the door?

“Oosp” - sorry, I’m not sure where I drew the conclusion the remote keypad accessory would work. I was comparing the “Lock” and the “Lock-Bolt” (soooper clever naming conventions… :wink: ) and thought both could use the remote keypad - this may be incorrect as you commented.

And yes, the “solution” you mentioned was exactly what I was thinking - fab up or buy a dummy plate to replace the keypad on the outside and then extend the wires to somewhere else. REASON: These “architectural” door handles we are interested in adding - long, vertical bars extending most of the height of the door. i.e. Imagine your handleset was 4 feet long. That handle would run directly over top of the keypad (or key-hole if I had a normal deadbolt) - the frame of my door isn’t wide enough to mount the handle off to the side of where the key pad wants to go.

One solution I am considering is to relocate the keypad on the hinge-side of the frame maybe (weird looking), or even to the neighbouring wall like where a doorbell might go (which would be even more difficult as I would need to then mortise in a commercial power-transfer-hinge).

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Oh yeah, now I understand the need for relocation. Makes sense. What you suggest is certainly possible. A lot of work, but definitely something that can be done from everything I see. :+1:

If you pull it off, you should show us pictures of your completed project, it would be cool to see and be a good reference for us to show others who have a similar need as you explained here. I am sure there are lots of people who chose to go without something else because of the obstruction from the handleset.

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Well… Lock Bolt is installed. Parts to extend the cable have been ordered - JST B10B-PHDSS and mating socket and pins is the connector. At the moment, I’m heading to another post however to address the “wont connect to bluetooth after setup” problem… <ROLLING EYES, LIKE SERIOUSLY?! - EMOJI>

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So as to not abandon this topic - I think it would have worked as planned but spouse decided on different door handles making the effort no longer necessary.

So… "this topic is closed.":slightly_smiling_face: