Yeppers, pigtail is also round. 
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I have a Chamberlain with a yellow button, digital wired remote, and built in MyQ. Still, I ordered the Wyze Opener to play with. I have yet to test to see if shorting the terminals work. If it does not work, one workaround I can think of is to connect the Wyze pins to a spare wireless remote as to simulate a button press. I’ll try that if the terminals don’t work out.
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Well, my GDC arrived and I connected everything. Unfortunately, it can’t detect the controller. Reboot, reset, unplug/plug, all the usual. No dice. I guess it’s DOA. Great.
Anyone else seen this? Any thoughts?
Try going through the Wyze Garage Door Controller Troubleshooting articles. If you still have issues, give Customer Support call.
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Thanks. There’s no troubleshooting for the controller not being detected. Just the usual restart, reset, unplug/plug (which didn’t help). I got on their support chat in the app, but of course, they insisted I tell them the version # (even though I told them it was up to date), and as I suspected, it lost the chat when I backed out to check. There’s an hour of my time down the drain. Support is very frustrating…
Ticket 2013188 (No response for over three hours though. I may have to do a chargeback.)
They mention that on the website that the cameras are identical but the cable that’s included with the camera in the bundle is specially shielded to prevent RF interference… They advise if using a standard V3 placing it farther away from the controller…
No you don’t.
What is the size of the QR code? Also, if placing the v3 further away, is there a distance limitation for when the QR code is not readable? Would be great if Wyze could provide/sell a shielded USB extension cable.
I also noticed that the manual says the GDC kit comes with a polarized power adapter. It’s very specific about how to plug in a polarized adapter (as if we don’t all know by now). However, the power adapter included in my GDC kit is not polarized.
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Good advice, but you don’t really get a lot of flexibility where you put the camera or controller, as they are both on limited length cables. You are also restricted by where your power outlet is. And all you are doing is minimizing the interference. So the shielded V3 is best. 
8-1/4"
When the camera doesn’t reliably recognize the door is closed, or keeps saying the door is open when it isn’t. First try recalibrating the QR code position, but otherwise that likely means it is not seeing the QR code well.
You don’t have to move the camera away from the opener if you are using a full kit (camera + GDC).
I don’t really need very long cables, because I’m mounting it right to the garage door opener…
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Seems you can’t set an action to open the Garage Door from the Watch/Band. would be nice to have a toggle state action that only works via geo fencing…
Can the GDC be used with the V3 Spot Light?
No. Only 1 external accessory (Spotlight, Floodlight, Lamp Socket, GDC) per V3.
Since it is indoors, you can use a trigger rule to have the camera turn on a Wyze Bulb if the V3 sees motion. Or Plug, etc.
Thank you.
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Well, I just got my opener and am extremely disappointed. Why? Because my Wayne Dalton iDrive opener is listed as compatible, but it is completely wireless. There are no wires, terminals, or any physical ways to connect the Wyze controller (or any door controller) to the motor that opens/closes the door. You use wireless controllers and pair them to the unit. Assuming that there is some sort of wireless controller feature, there are no instructions to tell me how to to program that.
I’m struggling with constant false positives of the door opening and closing. I’ve reset and recalibrated.
Does this look unclear as far as placement goes?
The panel above the QR code seems lighter. You have a shadow going across the code where it is. Any chance you can eliminate that shadowed light source in front of the cars and just go with the IR lights in the camera? Or raise that light source up a bit?
