I have a nicor doorchime. I don’t believe it is a standard set up. I bypassed the low voltage wires, but I think power comes out of the chime. There is no power to the doorbell. Has anyone dealt with this setup?
If the power is coming from that chime, it doesn’t look like it’s compatible, not enough power output.
Yep, I have the same Nicor Chime and it’s not compatible. I took it out and wired in a standard transformer from Home Depot and it worked just fine. The chime itself was going to be bypassed so now it’s just a spare part if I ever want to put it back up.
Hey, Which transformer did you end up with? I need one too. I guess Wyze saves money using a traditional doorbell transformer but these don’t have one. Also, if you have a wiring detail it would be awesome.
I originally bought the Hampton Bay 16VAC/30VA (Model# HB-130-03) at The Home Depot for $20 and it worked fine but did not fit into the existing 2 gang box so I ordered the Broan-NuTone 16V/10VA Doorbell Transformer (Model #C915) on Amazon for $21 which is designed to go right into the gang box like a wall switch. This will allow me to get a cover to put over the 2 gang box for a cleaner finish.
As far as wiring goes it is very straight forward White to White, Black to Black, Green to Copper/Ground. Then the two doorbell wires into the two existing (doesn’t matter which one to which wire). Just make sure you turn the breaker off at the panel because you are working with live wires here.
I ran into the same issue and I’m so glad to find this thread. How has the Broan-NuTone been working with the doorbell? Enought power? I’ve read that some say you should go for 24v transformer but not sure about that.
The Broan-NuTone has been working fine for the 24 hours I’ve had it installed. According to the Wyze Video Doorbell specs it needs 16-24 VAC and >=10VA which this transformer has so I don’t expect any issues.
Power Method for doorbell
Hardwire required: 16V-24V AC, ≥10VA
Power with existing doorbell-chime circuit, or use a standalone transformer and wires.
Perfect, I just ordered the Broan-NuTone. I’m excited to get it all setup. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for this thread, all. Should’ve known the builder’s Nicor chimes would be incompatible - but excited to get the Wyze Doorbell set up once the transformer’s swapped out.
The issue is that the older/cheaper Nicor Chime units puts out 12 VDC to the button, not the required 24 VAC. A 24 VAC transformer solves the problem, but another option is to do what I did, and get a Nicor PRCP2 chime from Amazon.
$40 right now. Super-easy swap for your existing Nicor Chime and has the required 24 VAC. Why do this instead of using a cheaper 24 VAC transformer? First, it’s a cleaner install with minimal effort. Same faceplate, fits right into the double-gang wall box. You don’t need to kludge a mount for the transformer or get a blank wall plate. Also makes it easy to revert to the original setup if you want to revert to a button. And yes, the chime in it won’t work with the Wyze, but if you change your mind and install a Ring (which is what I’m going to do if Wyze doesn’t quickly fix the connectivity problems with the Doorbell), it’s a simple swap and the Ring will activate the Nicor Chime. YMMV, works for me.
Thanks, I already bought a standard transformer. I may look at this option down the road. I have been pretty lucky so far with wyze and have not had some of the issues others have had, hopefully this continues with the doorbell.
I have v1, v2, and v3 cams, an Outdoor Cam, a full Wyze Sense install with 5 door sensors and one motion sensor, two Scales, and now, a Doorbell. All have had bugs and issues early on. My Wyze Sense works but has major problems that Wyze addressed by discontinuing the product and replacing it with a completely re-engineered product. The Scale produced ridiculous body composition data at first, took at least 3 firmware updates to fix it. That my Doorbell is flaky is no suprise. Oh, and since I wrote my previous message, without changing anything, the Doorbell is working almost normally now. I’m sure later in the day it’ll go back to having a problem. I just want them to acknowledge there are issues and let us know there’s a fix on the way. Communication is all we’re asking for right now.
@pbanders, I installed the upgraded Nicor transformer/chime too and it works great. Did you bother wiring adding the fuse in your setup?
No, I didn’t. It was more of an oversight, it would have been easy enough to do or to go and add. I’m not worried about it, the mains circuit is on GFCI, which I care about more, anyway.
Okay, thanks. I didn’t use it either and the doorbell seems to function fine.
When. You installed the new Nicor doorbell, does the doorbell chime work with the Wyze doorbell?
No, you still need to use the WYZE chime.
Just wanted to add this info to this thread. The output wires for the prime chime plus 2 are required to power the doorbell. The instructions stating to disconnect the two wires and bridge them will not work here. Leave the wires in slots 1 and 2.
@pbanders @admiraldowdy ok, just got my doorbell and was bummed my Nicor as pictured above isn’t compatible.
So just to confirm what you both said above, Install the PRCP2 as if it you are going to use it, but when you connect the Wyze doorbell to the 2 wires outside the house it will work correctly?