Because there are so many models of chime, I have to say just ensure the voltage output matches the input requirements. I carefully stated the make and model I used because of all the confusion out there.
No one mentioned 5V. The VDB runs off 16V-24V AC if you are using the screw terminals, but 5VDC USB power if you peel off the gray rubber on the back and expose the USB connector. Caution: Make sure it is still waterproof, as that gray rubber was a waterproof seal to protect the production test port.
I’m facing same issue with the Roku Doorbell which is the rebranded Wyze.
So it’s a fairly easy swap to change to the new PRCP2. Once done can you explain
where 2 wires from bell now go or perhaps even a picture. I’m not an electrician i just play one on TV 
Just follow the app installation procedure, for an electronic (not mechanical) chime. Should have diagrams or pics of where wires go. I just got my v2 for our house with the PRCP2, haven’t installed it yet, still have my old v1 hooked up. Installed a v2 on our house with a Broan mechanical chime, had to replace the transformer with a 30VA model, the old 10VA transformer supplied insufficient power to drive the mechanical chime. Shouldn’t be an issue with the PRCP2, as the electronic chime has way lower power requirements. The 10VA rating should be fine.
FWIW, the wires should go to the same terminals on the PRCP2 as you old Nicor.
Fyi, finally installed my V2 with the PRCP2. All I had to do was connect the doorbell, everything works. No rewiring, no Wyze chime module required.
@pbanders1 Does the PRCP2’s built in chime work with Wyze Doorbell v2? If not, what are you using as an actual chime?
The PRCP2 built-in chime works with the V2, no issues. Make sure to select “electronic chime” during the V2 setup.