Our current chime is using 4 of six connections (see attached photo). Wires are connected to Front, Com, Trans, and Side.
What I want: have the Wyze video doorbell just replace the front doorbell chime, but still have the existing chime work for the side doorbell.
In the documentation and examples, I always see the Trans wide being removed and jumpered with the desired doorbell. Does this also disable all doorbell chimes, or will the existing side chime continue to work.
I checked the voltage on the connections, there is no voltage between Trans and Front, but there is voltage between the COM and Front (as well as COM and Side). We do not have an intercom. How would the Wyze camera be wired in this case (and to support question #1 above, if that is possible?
Welcome @mbo , I am a Community Volunteer and will try to assist.
The Wyze Doorbell and Doorbell Pro does not support an existing house Chime. The Jumper is used to connect the wires and provide power to the Front or back Door. You would then hookup the doorbell and pair it with the Plug-in Chime.
You can then connect it to Alexa for announcing and/or turn on VoIP notification for when the Doorbell is pressed.
What is the make and model on that doorbell chime. Will need to take a look at the schematic. Also, are your doorbells illuminated? How many wires are at the doorbell?
The current doorbells you have are normally open, push to close circuits that activate the chime unless they are illuminated with a constant power circuit. The Wyze VDB requires a normally closed circuit bypassing the chime to operate on power 24\7.
The pushbutton circuit wires from the front doorbell will need to be tied into the transformer direct to bypass the chime. It is most likely just going to be relocating one wire on the board, but I would like to confirm on the schematic first.
There isn’t going to be voltage there unless someone is pushing the button to close the circuit back to the common.
Do you get a chime when you test these?
Thanks for the reply!
The chime is a Nutone model 351829006. Installed around 1977-78, when the house was built.
Doorbells are not illuminated. Two wires at each doorbell.
I have not yet tested with power out. About a year ago I tried a Simplisafe doorbell but that did not work as the chime continually rang (which makes sense as you mention, it closed the circuit).
Since only the connection for chime to be replaced has to be tied to the transformer, then it seems I can keep the current transformer wire in place on its connection (for the side doorbell) and connect the front doorbell wire to the transformer wire?
I understand that, I guess I am asking if I have a chime supporting 2 doorbells, and I want the Wyze doorbell to replace only one of them, will installing the Wyze require disabling both doorbells, or would it be possible, for example, to disable the front doorbell from the chime for use with Wyze, but still use the side doorbell with the chime?
I believe you can do that, as long as you connect the appropriate wire from your front door or side door.
@carverofchoice @R.Good @IEatBeans @SlabSlayer
Can any of you confirm as I don’t have a home Chime and only use the chime which came with the doorbell.
I believe so as well, should just have to jump the front doorbell line and leave the rest intact.
I couldn’t find the appropriate diagram, but you can test which side of the circuit the blue wire is connecting on thru the chime (trans or com). Given that you have power across com and front, it makes me believe the front lug is hot thru the chime.
Disconnect the doorbell wires and cap them. Remove the blue wire from front on the chime and connect to Trans with the red. Then go to the doorbell and test if there is power across the two wires. If there is then it should be bypassing the board circuit for the chime and will power the VDB without tripping the chime connected to the front lug.
If not, switch blue to com and test for power before connecting it to the VDB
Make sure it is delivering the appropriate voltage.
Thanks for all of the input! I have made progress, but not yet complete. I jumped the “Front” to “to Trans” and I get 18V to the front doorbell wires, and the side doorbell still uses the old chime. However, I connected the Wyze doorbell and do not get the flashing yellow power indicator. There is 18V coming to the back of the doorbell, I measured the terminals. I thought a minimum of 16V was needed, am I missing something?
16V is the minimum, but it must also be above 10VA.
What is the Amp output on your transformer. It will need to exceed .555 Amp to meet the doorbell current requirement. If it is a 500mA, it isn’t enough.
The amperage seems to be the issue. I am measuring 300mA at the doorbell wiring. Unfortunately I cannot locate the transformer - it is not in any of the exposed wiring areas in the house, so it must be behind drywall somewhere. I do not feel like tearing through drywall in multiple places trying to locate it, so I have returned the doorbell. I will use another solution for this. Thanks again for all of the responses.
Not sure what your construction looks like (slab, crawl space, basement) but many times they hide them in closets, up in the floor joists in crawl spaces or basements, in the attic joists, or near the breaker \ fuse panel.
I was also not able to use an existing transformer from the 1950’s. I opted to run a new wire to the doorbell and installed a new plug-in 24v 500mA power adapter wall wart in the nearest wall plug.
Thanks. we have checked all those places, it is not there. Even tried using metal detectors along insulated joists to no avail. My guess, based on trying to chase wire runs, is that it is somewhere behind drywall on the main floor. but I do not want to deal with hacking into potential areas and the ensuing mess. For now I am positioning a camera at a side window that has a view of the front porch and doorbell, so we can at least see who is there.