I bought a wyzecam 3 from amazon. It is the last one where you could still use the free camlite plus program with it. My old wyzecam 2 stopped working but other wyzecam I use with it does work.
I bought a 128gb micro sd card with it. Do I set it up exactly like how you do it with the old wyzecam 2 from a while back? I am using an iphone.
Do I need to format the microsd card first and if so, how I do that? Both are new and opened and I have to open it now to set it up.
Set it up just like you did with the V3 (other than selecting Wyze Cam v3).
No, you should not need to format µSD card. Out of almost 50 cameras, all with µSD cards, I have never needed to format a new card.
So I set up the wyzecam 3. Then I turned off camera and put in a new 128gb micro sd card into it. I didn’t do the free 31 day trial yet but I have option to do this anytime? Seems like it does when I check the options?
Now I have that free cam lite plus. When I first set the wyzecam 3, I manually entered my wifi connection name. That is okay right? I remember doing that with the wyzecam 2 a while back. But here you could scan the wifi network and choose it? But I didn’t do that. Then I manually entered my wifi password and it worked. The thing is you cannot connect to the 5g wifi network if you have 2 wifi connections? One that is 5g and the other that is non 5g? I use the wifi connection with 5g for my laptop and phone and everything. So here, I entered the non 5g wifi name connection and password. But could I unchange it and connect to the 5g one?
The reason I ask this is because when using the camera and turning it on… whenever I’m walking around, the wyzecam camera on my phone shows me glitching? Like purple and green color when me walking around the camera view and me viewing the wyzecam on my iphone real time. Is that normal? The other issue is I have push notifications on and when I review it, you can’t view the 12 second clip of it? I have that free cam lite plus plan so why does it not allow me to check the clip for 12 seconds? Only option is to press the small play button which would then tell me I could buy the monthly plan for 2.99/month or the other ones that is everything for over 10 dollars a month?
My wifi connection the 5g one is very good and reliable. I am on that wifi network on my iphone. However, is it possible because I connected my wyzecam to the non 5g wifi connection, I’m having these issues with the glitching? But can I even connect to the 5g one since I read somewhere it doesn’t work with 5g? The apartment that I’m renting from, I was given the wifi password to this wifi network connection that ends with 5g. There is another wifi network with the same name without the 5g at the end and that is the wifi I connected to when setting up the wyzecam.
Can someone tell me how to fix these issues? Is it normal for when me walking around in front of the camera like several feet away and me viewing my iphone and the wyzecam where I’m like glitching when viewing it in real time?
Okay so I went to services and then added this new wyzecam 3 to it and now it shows I have the free camlite plus with the 12 seconds.
However, there is a ton of lagging with the wyzecam. When viewing the new wyzecam 3 in real time on my iphone, it is not smooth at all. There is a lag every few seconds. My 5g wifi connection has no issue with other things. Is this because I connected my wyzecam 3 with the non 5g wifi connection that is causing it or not? This is unusable if it is like this. I even connected to my iphone data plan to view the wyzecam 3 camera in real time and there is a ton of lag and it keeps having to reconnect over and over.
Can you elaborate on that? So if I have 2 wifi connections… let’s call it
paulyronnie100
paulyronnie100 - 5G
When I set up my wyzecam 3, I connected to the paulyronnie100 one. So I couldn’t have connected to the 5G one? Now when I did this on my iphone, my iphone’s wifi is connected to the paulyronnie100-5G connection though. No issue with that?
My phone and laptop all connect to the paulyronnie100-5G connection and I do not use the non 5G one.
So do I have it set up correctly? Could I reset it and then connect the wyzecam usingf the paulyronnie100-5G one instead? Or that wouldn’t work? I know the 5G wifi connection is the faster one which is why I use that wifi connection with my phone and laptop. Can you or anyone give advice on this? I am thinking because I set up the wyzecam 3 with the non 5g one, that is why it is a bit slow and glitching?
Wyzecam 3 (v3) only will connect to 2.4GHz no matter what you define the SSID to be. Other electronics can connect to either; such as your phone.
All of my cams are on 2.4GHz. I can use my phone on either frequency to view the cams. They work fine. I do use a mesh router to extend the signal to distant cams.
I’m staying at an apartment where the wifi connection password I was given to had the wifi name like
paulyronnie100-5G
However, there is another wifi connection named paulyronnie100. That one doesn’t say 5G. The 5G at the end of the wifi connection name 100% refers to the 5GHz? So that means the only way I could have set the wifi up was the way I did it with entering the paulyronnie100 wifi connection and the password? It’s the same exact password for either the paulyronnie100 wifi connection or the paulyronnie100-5G wifi connection.
But there was no issue setting this up on my iphone while my iphone is connected to the 5G wifi connection right? My iphone and laptop always is connected to the 5G wifi connection.
Correct. You choose wisely. Seems most people only promote the 5G when naming.
There is no reason to name each frequency different but many do. I have one name for both 2.4 and 5GHz. The cams pick 2.4 while my phone and Roku choose the 5GHz.
So If I were to reset my wyzecam, and set it up again and manually type in the wifi connection that ends with 5G- it 100% wouldn’t work then?
I know there is 2 wifi connections with the same name… one with 5G and one without it. The person I rented from gave me the password to the 5G one and then I notice there was an identical wifi connection name without the 5G. I only use the 5G one with my iphone and laptop.
But I can’t choose the 5G one? It would show error or not work then when setting it up again if I do that?
Unless the person for some reason is using 5G to signify something else (like they have a second connection using 5G cellular) then no, it won’t work. The only reason you see it as an option is because your phone can see that band. When the camera attempts to connect it will fail, it can’t see it at all.
Most routers by default put 5G after the 5Ghz network name, and that is almost certainly the case here too. Since the cam only has 2.4ghz, it will fail.
Well in another location that I am at when I use the wifi connection, there is also 2 wifi connections with the same name and on is G and the other isn’t. So same situation right? Again this is the same password for that wifi connection.
So that means don’t bother resetting it then and try to set it up with the 5G one because it 100% won’t work right? When I check my wifi connection on my laptop at either location, there is always the same wifi connection name where the 2nd one is 5G.
Most people here have 2 wifi connections with the same wifi name right? Thus one regular and one that ends in 5G? So do most of you use the 5G one for your phone and laptop? It’s faster but the signal isn’t as good as the regular one right?
For the wyzecam, you have to use the non 5G wifi connection to set it up. Is there a reason why it was set like that where you can’t use the 5G one? But most people use the 5G wifi connection on their phone when checking wyzecam on their phone? When they are outside your apartment, you use your cellular data to check the wyzecam right?
Confirm that the non-5G WiFi actually has the same password as the 5G SSID. Attempt to connect your phone to the non-5G SSID and use the password that you were given for the 5G SSID. If it is able to connect, go into the phone settings and MAKE SURE it is connected to the non-5G SSID. I am speculating that the non-5G and the 5G SSID do not have the same password. If your phone is unable to connect to the non-5G SSID, check with whoever is supplying your WiFi and confirm what is really set up and how.
2.4Ghz (the non 5G network) is what is most often used by IOT devices like cloud cameras, smart plugs, smart bulbs, etc. It has better range, penetrates walls better, uses a bit less power, and most importantly saves cost on the device (dual band or even single band 5ghz chips are more expensive). The downside is it has less bandwidth/throughput, and is more prone to interference. In areas with houses close together, that limited bandwidth gets shared amongst multiple networks reducing throughput even further. But it is usually still enough for even these cams which require about 2-3megabits when streaming video, less when just uploading the occasional cilp to the cloud.
5Ghz has far better throughput and bandwidth, even if there are several neighbors close by. Much wider spectrum and technologies to make “sharing” work better. But it has shorter range and walls will cut that range even more than 2.4ghz.
Generally speaking if a device supports 5ghz and is in range, use that for that device. It will get better performance and not steal bandwidth from your 2.4ghz devices.
As far as having separate names, you’ll find people that recommend both. Most ISP routers come with them separated into two names and many leave it that way. For me, I prefer the convenience of having my stuff automatically switch to 2.4ghz when it gets out of 5ghz range, so I use the same name. My phone (which I use for Teams calls all day), after tweaking an option in the Android developer settings, switches between bands seamlessly without dropping the call. Perfect for when I want to get away from the PC screen and sit outside while on a call.
The argument for splitting them is that some devices will go onto 2.4ghz when they didn’t necessarily have to, or stick to 2.4 when they are back in range of 5 and not switch back (or take a long time to do so). I only have one device like that, my personal laptop, and I just disabled 2.4ghz in it so it is always on 5. I never take this laptop outside (if I had to and needed wifi, easy enough to flip 2.4 back on) and my entire house gets good 5ghz coverage, so that works for me.
But for people where that is a more severe issue of stuff not staying on 5ghz, I actually recommend setting up 3 different SSIDs. One which uses the same name for both bands, then two others that are band specific. So something like “Network”, “Network_2G”, and “Network_5G”. That gives you the ability to choose which is best for each device, you can have the convenience of automatically roaming, or the stickiness if that is desired (there are cases where you’d want a dual band device to stick to 2.4 if it is on the edge of the 5ghz coverage area and it isn’t reliable). There is a very slight additional overhead caused by having extra SSIDs but it is negligible and nobody would ever notice it. I take it a step further and have a guest SSID for IOT devices, a second guest SSID for guests to use, and then my main SSID that only my own trusted devices are on. All 3 use the same name for both bands, but they could be split if I had a reason to (6 SSIDs is getting a bit excessive but it works).
There is the option of having just the two separate SSIDs and joining your dual band device to both of them. With a laptop you can tell it which one is preferred and which is backup, but I’ve found with a lot of phones and other devices, you can’t, whichever you connected to last becomes the preferred one. So I don’t like that option (plus switching networks is more interruptive than switching bands on the same network, and almost always will drop a call etc).
So long story short, put the Wyze cams on the regular one, put your phone, computer, etc on the 5G one (as long as you don’t care about extended range for the phone/laptop) and that should serve you well. Your phone can still talk to the cameras even though the network name is different, unless the person that owns the wifi has set something up (like a guest network) that blocks communication between the networks, but even then, it would work, the traffic just goes out via the wyze servers and back in. That’s actually how mine works as my cameras are on an isolated guest network, and my phone is on my trusted network. They can’t see each other directly, they loop through the internet Wyze servers. Probably a slight performance hit but I haven’t noticed any major difference when I tested it both ways.
The Wyze cams can only connect to 2.4, they have no 5ghz radio, and can’t see that network at all. Any attempt to use it would fail.
Yes when outside your house you use cellular data or someone else’s wifi to see your cams via the Wyze servers.
The non 5g wifi connection and the 5g wifi connection is the same exact password. When I rented, the person gave me the wifi network connection name which ended in 5G and the password. I then noticed in the wifi connections, there is the same exact wifi connection name without the 5G at the end. I have connected to both of these wifi connections on my phone or laptop with same password and it worked. But I only connect my laptop and the iphone to the 5G one because it seems more faster.
When I set up the wyzecam 3 and had to connect to a wifi network, I just manually entered the wifi connection with the 5G at the end. Then I entered the password manually and set it up and it was good. Someone said that is the correct way right?
As of now, whenever I check my wyzecam 3 with my iphone while in the apartment, I would be connected to the 5G wifi connection on my iphone. If I’m outside the apartment, I would check my wyzecam 3 on my iphone with my data connection. So that is correct?
Another thing is this. If there is a power outage, someone mentioned a while back the wyzecam actually still records as long as it has a micro sd card inside it. Can someone confirm this? I know when power goes out, the wyzecam would go out. However, if you are not in the apartment while a power outage occurs, say the power comes back minutes later or hours later, the wyzecam 3 does turn back on itself when the wifi comes back? When there is a power outage, power is out. Then when power is back, it usually takes a few minutes for my wifi from the router to come back. But would I still need to manually unplug and plug back the wyzecam 3 when this happens or not? If I’m not in the apartment during this time, how would I make sure the wyzecam continues to record and do it’s thing once the power and wifi comes back? It should come back on and record once power and wifi comes back right?
No way for anyone to know how that person set up their wifi. If the Wyze cam connects fine to the “5G” one then that one isn’t just 5Ghz, but that would seem awfully strange if they put 5G on a 2.4ghz network, it must have 2.4Ghz also. Either that or the Wyze has some intelligence built in to remove the _5G even if you try to use it. There is no point in manually putting in the network and password, the camera cannot connect to a 5Ghz network no matter what.
The camera will come back on automatically when power is restored. It may not start recording to SD until it has an internet connection though (and obviously won’t be accessible remotely until your internet is back up).
That is correct. It is recording to microSD regardless if there is an internet connection or not. However, how you can access that footage is another matter.
If you experience power outage and the power comes back before the internet, then the footage will start recording into another folder. Once the internet is back online, then the cameras will start recording into the correct folder automatically (so you can playback on the app). You do not need to power cycle the cameras.
Situation 1: Camera was working, but internet goes down and comes back up 2 hours later. Once internet is restored, you can playback the footage in the app even with those 2 hours (this is only for older 4.xx.11.8391 firmware). The firmware 4.xx.13.0416 or newer introduced a new behaviour which will only playback an additional 30 minute in the app from the time of the internet outage (AKA OG behaviour).
Situation 2: Camera was working, but internet goes down and you immediately unplug / plug the camera and internet comes back up 2 hours later. Once internet is restored, you can’t playback the missing 2 hour footage in the app.
Situation 3: Camera was working, but internet & power goes out. Power comes back on almost immediately, but internet comes back on 2 hours later. Once internet is restored, you can’t playback the missing 2 hour footage in the app.
Situation 4: No internet and you power on the camera. Once internet is restored, you can’t playback footage in the app.
Situation 2 and 3 may seem very similar, but Situation 2 was self induced so remember to don’t do that. There’s probably more situation to this, but I think you get the idea.