I just installed the new duo cam doorbell to replace the original wyze wired doorbell. Besides the camera registering people in front of my porch as vehicles… I hoping that will fix itself, I’m having issues getting the mechanical, oem house door bell chime to work. I have the duo cam wired up on the front porch. Nothing hard there - two wires, not polarity sensitive. I removed the Wyze-fuse that I installed (as instructed) a long time ago from the previous wyze doorbell. I basically wired the oem doorbell chime back to the way it was when we first got the house. When wired up there is a small hum/buzz coming from the door bell chime transformer, the transformers that move the dingers (plungers). It doesn’t sound right and definitely doesn’t feel right either as I can feel it vibrating. So, to keep the doorbell duo cam wired up and charging (not running off the battery) I unwired it as it was and reinstalled the ‘wyze fuse’ to provide power to the duo cam. I did verify the setting in the app multiple times, that it was set correctly to the mechanical chime. I even tried setting it to digital chime just to try something. Is the duo cam really not capable of dinging my normal oem doorbell in addition to activating the wi-fi chime? The only reason we really want to leverage this advertised dual capability is because on the normal sounding “clear doorbell” sound is very soft compared to the Christmas jingles. We have a two story house and we want to be able ot hear the doorbell no matter where we are at in the house. We also want something normal sounding so we know the doorbell is being pressed. Does anyone else feel the actual doorbell sounds on the wifi chime are quieter (even at max volume) than the christmas melodies? - I also noticed the duo cam also has a high pitch buzz coming from it if you put your ear near it -this normal? Is it struggling? Is it just charging?
First, the people as vehicles means it sees a vehicle in the frame when it does the analysis, so may need to make some adjustments to try and reduce that. Detection zone being the most useful.
Technically video doorbells are polarity sensitive, but a lot have built in circuitry to reverse it for you if needed. Not sure if this one does or not, if the instructions say it doesn’t matter, then it probably does have that built in.
To clarify, is your mechanical chime itself buzzing (and are the plunger(s) up against the metal plates as though the button is being held in)? Or is it just the transformer? If it is just the transformer, I would suspect it is just being stressed to its max ability and may need to be upgraded. Many homes have 16v 10va which over time can be even lower, and that is barely enough to run the doorbell. 20v 20va would be a big step up and they’re pretty cheap.
There has been discussion here about a chime controller being needed on some of the doorbells, but I’m not familiar with which cases that is (and seems a bit odd to me that you’d need something to interface your mechanical chime in).
The biggest challenge is old mechanical doorbells and standard buttons were pretty forgiving about wiring and a lot of houses they’re a mess. A second button at the back door adds complexity too (do you still have a jumper/diode on that maybe from your previous install)?
EDIT - take a look in this thread where it seems the chime controller is required if you want to operate your mechanical chime (the symptoms there are a bit different but required is required regardless)
I think you’re talking about the solenoids within the chime box. It’s likely that your transformer is located elsewhere in the home. If you know where that is, it’d be a good thing to check in order to ensure that it meets the required specifications for powering Duo Cam Doorbell, though if you were doing an upgrade from the original Wyze Video Doorbell—and if that was functioning as expected—then I imagine you’ve got adequate power output.
The hum (and other phantom sounds that some users have described) is likely because you installed Duo Cam Doorbell without the Chime Controller, as @dave27 alluded. This has been discussed pretty extensively in other topics (in addition to what @dave27 mentioned):
Those may shed some light on what you’re experiencing.
That’s what Wyze suggests in at least one of their Help Center articles, and that article even includes the installation video for the original Video Doorbell (where you’re supposed to use the fuse/jump wire to bypass the chime). Note that doing this doesn’t completely bypass the mechanical chime (you still have wires connected to terminals) and some users have reported a buzz, hum, or other unwanted sounds even using the jump wire in this fashion, so you may want to just wire the FRONT and TRANS wires together with a nut (maybe label them to note which is which, because that can be important) and truly bypass the chime until you can install a Chime Controller.
Note also that the Chime Controller is available for purchase via the app but not in Wyze’s shop on their Web site (as mentioned in the linked topics above). 
It should be, if installed correctly (which means having a Chime Controller wired into the home’s built-in chime box). In addition to that and the Wi-Fi Chime, it can also ring certain models of Wyze Cams using the “Camera as Chime” feature.
I can’t speak directly to your other questions, as I have no hands-on experience with this one. I’m happy with my Video Doorbell v2 and its actuation of my home’s mechanical chime. 
I wish you could hold in the doorbell button for that true doorbell effect. But, no the plunger is not held to one side or the other. Not fully energized. Just a tiny hum/buzz where you can tell the plunger’s coil has juice on it, just a very tiny amount - not enough to move it.
My transformer is mounted directly behind my oem doorbell chime inside a coat closet - easy to get to. It is a 16V 10VA xmfr. EM57580 - new home build original. Wyze doesn’t really state transformer spec requirements for this new duo cam in the instructions. I remember when I installed the original Wyze doorbell the in-app instructions were quite detailed. So, is the required minimum xfmr more than 10VA for this duo cam? If so, I can definitely start there and run down to my local home depot, before buying the add-on chime module which would just add another load to the circuit anyways.
Thanks for the reply 
Yes, those guys. One for the “ding” and one for the “dong”
I was able to get the “ding dong” to work, originally. I forgot to share that. I unwired it after I felt and heard the hum, at rest. The plunger wasn’t fully energized or extended or anything, Just humming away like it was energized for lift off with teeny-tiny vibrations. Before I unwired it though, it was a very quick ding-dong. More like a di-do, with not “nnng.” Imagine the old school push button door bell switch. You tap it real quick without fully pressing in the switch, holding it for a solid second and then releasing it, for that true Diiinnng Donnng. Ya know? The duo cam wasn’t able to give it that ‘true’ sound. With no setting to extend the activation pulse from the push button of the duo cam, there really isn’t anything to fix that. That would be a good setting to have WYZE within the app for the mechanical chime integration: “pulse duration” setting. Maybe in milliseconds. Or, just make the duo cam push button really a push button - you hold the push button in, the dry contacts stay closed until you physically release the button, just like an old school push button doorbell switch. 
Yes, I do have my mech chime completely bypassed - just a wall ornament essentially. I don’t have any wires landing on the terminals within the mech chime. I also do not have a rear doorbell just the one on the front door. Very easy single loop (in series) wiring scheme. It’s even printed on the chime body. 
I hope a new xfmr will be an easy find and easy fix. I don’t like that buzz, whether it’s a buzz/hum from the mech chime or from the doorbell duo cam itself - it doesn’t sound right. Every homeowner starts to worry about electrical issues or even fire damage with those kinds of sounds.
Thanks for the reply!
Not according to the Installation Guide:
Voltage Requirement
- Your existing circuit must have a minimum voltage of 16V and power output of 10VA.
For their doorbell models as a class, Wyze tends to recommend 16-24 V AC, ≥10 VA.
Yeah, so I wouldn’t really worry about the transformer at this point.
Right. That’s what other users have reported when using Duo Cam Doorbell without the Chime Controller, as well. The topics I previously linked (and I tried to link directly to good starting points so you don’t have to read the entire threads if you don’t want to) provide good discussion about that.
Something similar to that is actually a setting—and part of a recommended troubleshooting step for chime problems—for Video Doorbell v2, and I suspect Duo Cam Doorbell has a similar setting. I imagine the Chime Controller is necessary to make that feature work, too.
I really would skip that for now and go straight for the Chime Controller, as I suspect that upgrading your transformer and then reconnecting your chime might actually make the buzzing worse (since you’d be supplying more uninterrupted power to the chime in that case). I really do think at least skimming the other topics I previously linked—especially the first one—would be enlightening.
You’re welcome!
after reviewing those recommended previous posts, I will give the digital doorbell option a try as I wait for the chime control module to show up. 
That seems like a reasonable thing to try. I don’t expect it to completely alleviate the hum, but if it does then I’ll be happy to be wrong about that because it means I’ve learned something new.
I was already on another thread posting about notification issues on the duo. And I thought I’d swing by and do a quick update. I got the door chime controller in today. It’s pretty cute. I didn’t realize it was so small. Glad it is though, for easier installation. I’m assuming it is some sort of solid-state relay or micro relay setup. We’ll see once I install it.
I tried the digital doorbell option this morning. Starting all the way at 9sec, then to 5, then down to 1. That worked like expected. Not ideal and would be asking for some electrical issues down the road. Ultimately, I settled back to the mechanical setting (for now) after giving it another try. When I first tried it last week it wasn’t working correctly with ‘mechanical’ set. It wouldn’t fully ding and dong, like the trigger was way too fast for the plunger to actuate - so it wasn’t loud enough. Today, however, it gives me a full ding-dong 
…uh… it’s still a little too quick, I think, but it hits both plates (the ding and dong plates).
Buuuuut, it still has a very slight electrical hum that can be heard when everything is quiet. Almost in audible. ‘older’ ears may not even be able to notice it. It can also be felt when touching the plunger, which when done, makes the sound go away - the sudden dampening/removal of sound lets you realize it was there, kind of thing.
Before installing the chime controller, I want to test the hum (by listening) up at the doorbell itself, to see if that may have changed. But, it’s pretty stormy right now, and the outside ambient noise outside it crazy! 
I’ll update on here when I can.
Here’s a picture of my actual doorbell for reference… ya know the mechanical ding-donger. A super simple setup only one ‘doorbell’ -the front door
Note: Wyze should have had me (and many others) help beta test this doorbell a bit more.
Thanks for taking the time to post an update. In case it helps you or anyone else, I posted pictures of my Chime Controller installation (running with a Video Doorbell v2) over here:
It’s small and easily fits within the home’s built-in chime box.
One other thing I’d mention that has helped me with my doorbell: If you have a way to know that your wiring inside the chime box is correct, then being sure that the correct wires are currently attached to the FRONT and TRANS terminals might prevent some headaches later on. I’ve described elsewhere on the Forum how my doorbell stopped ding-dong!-ing after several months of reliable service, and while I was helping someone else troubleshoot an issue I decided to do some testing on my own end and found out that the transformer and doorbell button wires within the chime box had been connected to the wrong terminals before I ever started. Since I’ve remedied that, my doorbell experience has been much more consistent and reliable.
If the original chime is wired correctly, when the controller is installed the hum should disappear. If the hum is post duo installation but pre controller install, it’s been a frequent issue with the duo and mechanical chime. May lead to the need to upgrade transformer if you have not already.
I do fall within the specs that Wyze says should work. Going to try the door chime controller first due to all the other threads sharing they’ve had success with it. But that def has been a consideration.
I didn’t realize you had your posts on this topic on a different thread! Your doorbell looks just like mine. Same simplistic set up. 
Yeah, there are several Forum topics that discuss the Duo Cam Doorbell hum. I try to provide links to those when I think they can be helpful (or when I actually think about it and am not being super lazy).
@cdznutts - There most likely was a jumper wire included in the packet with the screws, wire nuts and extension wires. It’s a double ended u-hook wire. There is an alternate solution for use with it. If not, get the controller. Cleaner solution.
Yup. You found my ‘different thread’ >
Here is the wiring on my chime controller to my doorbell. A lot like @Crease 's set up. Simple, with one door bell.
Here it is dressed up, wires out of the way and ready for the cover to be installed.
These video clips weren’t easy to upload on here. Tooks lots of resizing and finaggling.
After all wired up… this one shows the db chime module stutter/clicking as it struggles to make a good solid connection upon activation. Mechanical doorbell setting in app.
Here it is with the digital doorbell setting set to a 1sec dwell time in the app
This is how it was when I installed it last weekend. I don’t have time during the work week to mess with this stuff. I set it back the to mechanical setting and just carried on with my life.
Come Thursday and Friday into the weekend… noticed the doorbell chime and controller is solid now with no stutters. And also, from my original query… no door bell low volume hum. I didn’t change anything. Even left the setting the same in the Wyze app. Go figure - ?
I forget if you tried a more powerful transformer? That’s what things seem to be pointing to at this point.
Edit - I may be misunderstanding when you said “no door bell low volume hum”, I thought you were listing two symptoms that remain but maybe you’re saying the problems are gone?
As @crease said, the capacitor will take a bit of time to charge, it likely has a resistor so it charges slowly and won’t overload your transformer.
Same happens when you install a new motion sensor light (they say wait 90-120 seconds usually) or even a new “instant on” LED lightbulb that the first time takes a couple seconds to turn on, then after that is instant.
So now everything is working as expected?
I suspect the Chime Controller was the true remedy for this.
I don’t know how soon after hooking everything up you attempted and made video recordings of your tests, and I also don’t know the details of the Duo Cam Doorbell’s innards, but I do know that Video Doorbell v2 has a big capacitor in it that requires time to charge, which is why one of the troubleshooting articles for that model advises users to wait 20-30 minutes after powering it up. Maybe it just needed time to get to full juice?
Repeatedly pressing the doorbell within a short period of time is likely to deplete that power reserve (at least for Video Doorbell v2), so the behavior you showed in your videos wouldn’t seem completely unexpected to me if you were using one of those. I’d think the battery inside Duo Cam Doorbell might compensate, but I really don’t know.
If things are working as expected at this point, then I’d probably just watch it for a while to ensure that the battery is staying charged and not draining in your current installation, since that’s a necessary component for operation even when Duo Cam Doorbell is wired to low-voltage AC. If everything seems good from that standpoint, then I think I’d leave it as is.
I’m glad I found this thread. I’m contemplating two doorbells replacements. Old ones are already not so smart models, Simplisafe Pros.
No chime connectors were necessary with those.
Is the V2 Duo the newest recommend model?
I don’t necessarily need package detection but hey, it’s a feature. So why not?
My old doorbells chime is a 1980 model, a Nutone mechanical with a ding and ding dong.
Ugly wiring but hopeful to just connect the Duos up and go.
Anything to know ahead of time?
One I might try is the Etsy height extensions if available for Duo, for more wiring room.
Suggestions if any?