Wyze Doorbell v2 chime controller not working

got the 16V30VA transformer
I can confirm it works
Slight delay though between outside and inside ring

New possible issue. I have replaced my Transformer with 16V 30VA and I have the WYZE Chime Controller installed. Everything appeared to be working, but as I walked past the door, I noticed the blue light was flashing. Nothing in the field of view and no alerts. I opened door and rang my door bell (which worked) and flashing stopped???
Anyone else experience this?
I did have my sensitivity set to 100 so I lowered it to 80??

Experiencing all the same issues descrided herein. I have tried locating my transformer without any success. Most likely closed in behind walls in basement when it was finished. How about bypassing the mechanical doorchime altogther. Just join the transformed wire to the front wire in the chime box thereby bypassing the chime. Then use an Alexa device to ring when someone pushed the doorbell. I am not an electrician by any means and wondering what if any implications this might have?

If you are ok with not having your chime work, there isn’t really a need to bypass the chime. Sounds like you already have it working aside from the chime, yes? So you can just go ahead and setup the Alexa integration (hopefully it is reliable).

Blue light flashes when there’s motion, mine flashes all the time when I walk in front of it. It stops after a few seconds.

I turned the light off in the settings because I didn’t like the way it flashed. I wish there was a setting to leave the light on but not have it flash during motion detection.

There was no motion. But camera had a green box on left side where camera has image of wall next to it. I have mine isatalled with the wedge to get best view.

It certainly is not ideal. But better than listening to the humming sound coming out of the mechanical chime. I have come to expect better from Wyze. Have not been disappointed with their products until now.

So green box indicate motion detection.
This Wyze Doorbell doesn’t use PIR, so it’s purely motion detection via the image processing.
That stucco wall might just be too busy so slight changes in lighting from the sun might trigger the motion detect.
Try turning down the sensitivity.

I agree this note is BS. I have brand new wiring with very short runs - ideal conditions and a 16v 10a transformer does not work. Like most people here, I upgraded to 16v 30a and everything works great.
I’m very surprised and disappointed Wyze has not come out with a proper response to this issue or offered some form of compensation for early adopters needing to spend an additional $20-$30 (CAD) to upgrade the transformer.


Thanks, I know the green box indicates motion. It was late at night, and I did turn down sensitivity. Wait to see if it reoccurs.
P.S. I received a notice that there was new firmware for Video Doorbell V2 today. The description only mentioned “security issues fixed”, so I don’t know if they fixed anything related to the transformer or not. As I have installed the 16V 30VA transformer, it’s hard to tell if they fixed the original problem?


Ok, mission new door install finally completed! Whew! Thought it was going to be a two wires and two screws and bam, new upgraded video doorbell (coming from a Ring V1 that has always been a horrible experience). But, no, Wyze had to design this for a 16V 30VA transformer which the vast majority of homes are not equipped with. That would have been fine except I didn’t know that requirement so I spent hours pulling my hair out reading, re-reading, and reading again the instructions. Then had to try every possible wiring and app permutation hoping the instructions didn’t apply to my situation. All to no avail other than to waste several hours.

I was going to return it, but couldn’t bring myself to going back to the Ring’s lousing video and lag time to see that lousing video. So, I broke down and bought a 16V 30VA transformer, Got it installed and my mechanical chime is working now as well as the Alexa integration. I can ring it over and over and both the chime and Alexa chime work consistently.

If interested, here’s the Chime I purchased (not an affiliate link):


It was $14.99 and worth it now that the mechanical chime and Alexa chime are consistently working. Now, if those Trick or Treaters I missed would return and take my full-size candy bars I shouldn’t be eating.

NOTE: If you are unable to get the Wyze Chime Module suffed inside your chime with the cover on, you may have an electrical box behine the chime. If so, remove the chime and stick the module on the backside of the chime, centered so it will fit in the box. This is how I mounted it. Worked well.

Good luck everyone!

I wasted all day trying to make this doorbell works - hours on the phone with Wyze customer service reps who didn’t provide any solution, e-mails, tickets…. I am glad I found this form and the common issue we all have (Wyze has) If you are advertising and selling a doorbell as compatible with most (few exceptions only) existing chimes, it should works without any modification. Not sure how this product passed testing, but I think sales needs to be halted until this is fixed or the product description should clearly says that the doorbell is NOT compatible with most existing chimes, and new transformer needs to be purchased and installed by electrician. As for those of us who felt for this FALSE ADVERTISING by Wyze (illegal) we need to be fully compensated for the required transformer upgrade. Those who decide to return the product are also due full refund - including the shipping charges Wyze charges.

Interesting fact - Amazon sold hundreds of Wyze’s Doorbell V2 but there are only 3 reviews and posting a review is not possible -“Amazon has noticed unusual reviewing activity on this product. Due to this activity, we have limited this product to verified purchase reviews.”

Same issue as everyone. Support wasn’t all too helpful - suggested returning. Used my own dime to upgrade transformer and it works now. Spent too much money and time to fix this issue, that Wyze hasn’t even released any official statement about.

  • from a long time Wyze supporter. First major disappointment from the team.

How about an “OFFICIAL” notification/udate from WYZE addressing the following:

  1. State that WYZE is aware of Chime issues with new WYZE Video Doorbell V2 and they are aware of the many posts on the forum.
  2. Give update on their Lab investigations and potential firmware or hardware updates to fix this issue. A hardware update could be a general recall of the current Wyze Video Doorbell V2 with replacement of upgraded units that will work with 16V 10VA transformer (with or without the Wyze Chime Controller) at no costs to customers, or replacement of Wyze Chime Controller that works with 16V 10VA transformer at no costs to customers.
  3. If no firmware or hardware fix is possible, then explain why the original stated transformer requirements of 16V 10VA is causing many customer’s indoor chime to not function with the WYZE Chime Controller installed.
  4. Provide new specifications concerning transformer requirements and agree to reimburse customers that purchased the 30VA transformers.

Yes I returned old bell and bought New one. But with problems I returned the new one also.
Wyze looks highly unprofessional organization.

Okay, Wyze I am not sure why you do not post all the data needed to install your V2 doorbell. So first things first. If your door bell works as is and your chime does what it’s designed to do let’s do some calculations before you start your install. Example: your trans former has a 16v 10VA stamped on it that is referring to the output of the transformer. Do some simple math. 10VA/16V = .625A. This means all the current that your trans former will put out is .626amps or 625ma. Your Wyze V2 requires .425amps to run with everything turned on. That only leaves .200 to make your chime work. THAT US NOT ENOUGH! You need a minimum of approx .300 amps to run the chime alone. So, the solution is you need more current to drive the coils at your chime. The transformer needs to be replaced. A 16v 30VA will out put 1.875 which is just fine to run both in the same circuit. If you decide to use a larger transformer for example a 24v 40VA you get 1.67amps to drive your circuit. This will still work. But you need to look at your chime manufacturer and see what is recommended by them for voltage. The chime will draw enough current for what it needs if available.

I hope this helps those who are struggling.

I wish Wyze would just come clean on this.


And tell us the purpose/function of the Wyze Chime Controler (WCC) and if it is REALLY necessary if you have a 16V 10VA transformer and a Chime that does work without the WCC.