I’m having the same problem with my indoor chime. The ability to ring my existing chime is the only reason I purchased this doorbell camera. I have a mechanical interior chime, works fine until installing Wyze v2. Wyze has been installed for several hours. Why does the amount of time it has been connected matter? Is there a battery in Wyze’s little chime box? Or is it charging a capacitor?
Its 100% the capacitor that gets wired to the chime. I’m replacing a Ring door bell and I put back in the capacitor that came with the Ring doorbell and my mechanical chime now works perfectly. The capactior I’m using is call Pro Power Kit V2 by ring. I want a replacement capacitor from Wyze or a partial refund.
Yup other user are also having a better experience by using a different controller.
My chime is not working either but I’m pretty sure the reason for that would be I wired it incorrectly I have the Honeywell digital wired/battery chime using it as a wired chime I made a drawing of everything I have any help would be greatly appreciated
It was simply two wires coming as input to the transformer. Easy to replace it.
I have a standard NuTone hardwired doorbell chime. Following the included instructions and guide did not work. This is how I got it working with the v2 (assuming the Wyze chime controller (WCC) is already installed):
- Disconnect the white WCC wire from your house chime
- Move the red WCC wire to the now-empty Front post on your house chime
Like others on this post, I decided to NOT wait for the WYZE engineers to discover what many on this thread figured out. My first option was to remove their Chime Controller, but not really knowing what this is meant to do and not wanting to cause damage to outside unit I opted for the 2nd Option. I went to Home Depot, purchased a $21.52 (with tax) 16V 30VA transformer. (Decided to not get the 24V 40VA transformer) Replaced my 16V 10VA original transformer with new transformer and my Nutone mechanical chime unit now works.
From my measurements, this is NOT a voltage issue but a VA (Volt-Ampere rating) issue, My original 16V 10VA transformer was actually producing approximately 20 Volts. The new 16V 30VA transformer is allowing approximately 19 volts through. So need higher VA rated transformer. I have over a dozen WYZE components on my system (Indoor and outdoor plugs, Pan Scan Cameras, WYZE Cam v3, and none of them have caused me this much hassle. Instead of rushing product or features out, TEST, TEST, TEST AND TEST AGAIN. As a former software engineer, our mission was to not only test for the expected results and conditions, but to test for the unexpected, abnormal and the almost in spec limits condition.
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Wyze support gave me those exact instructions today.
Tried it when I got home and it worked.
I installed the new Doorbell V2 on October 28.
I had the same issue and followed Wyze Instructions to the letter and the mechanical chime didn’t work with Wyze Controller.
My original mechanical chime that came with the house has 2 wires. What I did was to remove Wyze Controller & use the original mechanical wiring and the Doorbell V2 works if you set the chime to Mechanical!
This is the Original Wiring which is Red to Front & Black to Trans
See Photo & Video Clip
So, can you please clarify if the WCC white wire is not connected to anything?
WCC red connected to FRONT (instead of TRANS)
WCC black connected to white doorbell
WCC white disconnected
the other white doorbell connected to TRANS (same as before)
anybody knows what the controller is for? if it works fine without it… why should we care?
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Can anyone confirm that by installing a higher va transformer, both the humming noise and the delay go away?
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I do not have any hum, there is a small delay.
The 16v 30VA fixed my problem but there’s still about a 2 second delay. I can live with that as long as my indoor chime rings. I could never do the old doorbell because our special needs son would remove the plugged-in chime… hahaha
I only get one notification when the doorbell is pressed multiple times even when I clear the notification. I pressed the button after 2 to 3 minutes and I don’t get any new notifications. Shouldn’t we get one notification per each ring?
My theory…
My mechanical chime is not working like many others. I’m not buying that a 16v/10 transformer is under powered. A new transformer may ‘fix’ the problem but the problem is not due to lack of power. The wyze doorbell, like the Nest, charges up enough to keep it running during a button press. It will stay powered for a number of seconds after disconnecting the wires or during the button press. The button press basically shorts the bell wires as a switch closure would. This denies the doorbell cam power for a second or so but the charge carries it through. Since the wyze is running on a charge to carry it through a button press, the power used by the doorbell does not factor in during the button press. I think I figured out what the chime controller does. If you remove the chime controller, the chime might vibrate or activate due to the wyze cam drawing it’s small amount of power through the chime. Install the chime controller and there will be no more chime vibrating. There will be zero volts across the chime coil. So in standby, the chime controller bypasses the chime coil. No voltage, no buzzing. When you press the button, you effectively remove the wyze cam from the circuit. The chime controller senses the voltage or current change from this button push event and stops bypassing the chime coil and a diverts the full voltage to the chime coil. When this setup is not working for some folks, no voltage at all is sent to the chime for those having a problem. Its not a low power problem at all. This is a failure of the chime controller to recognize the fluctuation caused by the button being pressed so it does not switch power through the chime. Its a trigger problem. Sure, a new transformer may help nudge the circuit back into the operating range but the problem is not that our 16v/10 transformers are ‘weak’, Wyze’s button event trigger sensing is poor. As we say in the engineering world, “its on the hairy edge”. I think this is a lucky break for Wyze that they can blame this on outdated customer equipment. My current situation is sometimes the inside chime rings and sometimes it doesn’t. I might try a new transformer but I’m not feeling good about keeping this anyway. We need a reliable indoor chime. After my nest doorbell died, I put up wyze cam pan v3 on the house front. I’m liking the less distorted yard view and the ability to look at small packages leaned right against my door.
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All I can offer is that, after switching from 10VA to 30VA, my chime works flawlessly. Last night was Haloween, so it got a lot of heavy use… didn’t miss one press of the button.
With the 10VA, my chime did not work once.
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Add me to the list of users who’s doorbell chime doesn’t work with the new camera. I love the video quality and speed of the camera over the v1. From reading the thread updating the transformer should fix it, but the problem in my house is I can’t find it. The door bell is on a deviding wall, so it’s not on the other side, and there are no cloests around it. The wires also go through a hole into the drywall and dissapear. I had to put the V1 camera back on for halloween. That said, the family loves the different ring tones of the V1 as well. I wish that Wyze would let the V2 camera work with the V1 speaker. That would be great for people like me who have no idea where the transformer is (it’s probably burried in a wall since the pervious owners remodled the house themselves). Over all, it’s a bit dissapointing, but sounds like an easy fix if I ever find the box.
I was experiencing the same issue. Removed the Wyze Chime Controller and rewired the mechanical chime as before and it worked.
The transformer could be buried in a wall. That’s not cool, but its possible. Mine is mounted right to my breaker panel. You might try figuring out what circuit breaker turns the doorbell off and then look near everything else that is controlled by that particular breaker. It could be in your attic, in your basement, near your heating system, in the garage etc. They tend to mount them to a metal junction box in a low traffic area. See what else stops working when you find the breaker and that might give you clues.
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