A 16/30VAC is more than enough. Mine is now working perfectly on 16/10VAC.
Wyze’s Doorbell V2 is a mess, and the company has not addressed the issues yet. The doorbell can works without the transformer controller, but that’s not the point- it’s supposed to protect the doorbell. All these alternative wiring and guessing need to be officially addressed by Wyze.
Yet they have sold us unfinished product and now pretend there is no issue. The company is going downhill with all that diversification and abandoning the core business. Also, I am pissed of pushing the paid Cam Plus service so hard.
The Doorbell V2 doesn’t save clips on motion events and it doesn’t works with CamPlusLite - of course……
No disrespect but, Simmer down bro. 
It’s a 39.99 camera and I think it works very well compared to the Ring Doorbell V3 I replaced that originally cost 3 times as much. The unlimited Cam Plus plan is way cheaper than any Ring plan too.
Wyze has published what to do in their troubleshooting steps on their website. The fix does work.
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Got my 16 vac/10 VA chime from the late 60s working by swapping red and white wires on the controller. Seems to be working fine now.
“Acceptable” is a term I chose to use based on what’s printed on my Wyze box:
Power Input: AC16V/AC24V, >=10VA.
The transformer I purchased is rated at 24VAC 40VA, which seems to be in compliance with the Power Input range specified by Wyze. The transformer and the camera are quite warm though. Have I misinterpreted the specified Power Input range?
The Alternate wiring instructions shows the wire being attached to the Rear terminal and the white wire not connected. This did not work for my setup.
For me to get the chime controller to work with my old Nutone Mechanical chime, I just attached the red wire to the Front terminal and white wire is not connected. Now Doorbell and Chime work fine just as it did without the chime controller!
Sequence for me is: Wyze Doorbell Rings - Chime Dings - VOIP call to my iPhone. Image is crystal clear when I answer call.
After spending way too much tune on the mechanical chime situation it brought me to this forum. After making my way down and found this post. Removed the controller. Hooked up normally and everything works fine. Thanks!
No wonder folks are frustrated. I’m seeing several different solutions here, which is likely leading to confusion depending on how far someone digs into these discussions:
- Wyze’s own alternative wiring solutions given in troubleshooting.
- Transformer upgrade, found here and in the troubleshooting guide.
- Voltage/VA requirements on the transformer (which again may depend on the user’s setup) . Some folks seem to be upgrading to 24V, though if applicable, I would recommend checking your mechanical chime to see what the manufacturer allows. In my case, it was max 16V. In one troubleshooting guide, Wyze does state 20/30VA is recommended (but the 16V is mentioned in the previous paragraph).
- Swapping red/white wires.
- Removal of the controller altogether (which according to documentation isn’t recommended and may void warranty)
- I’m sure there are others.
It seems many are finding their existing 16V/10VA is working after adjusting the wiring as per troubleshooting, or advice in these threads.
For me, I had to swap the red/white (could easily be an issue with the wiring in my house?) AND replace the transformer with a 16V/30VA.
Excellent summary of the different confusion
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I have a 16v 10VA transformer with Mechnical door chime and only front door (no rear). Primary wiring setup did not work. Changed to alternate with just red wire no white - it worked HOWEVER the chime solenoid hummed slightly which it did not do before any of this and that bothered me. I bought a 16v 30VA transformer (amazon $17), replaced the old transformer and reverted the wyze controller wiring back to original wiring and it works great - and no hum. So clearly the 10VA one was underpowered to handle it. I would not suggest going to 24v unless your chime says it can take it. Just get a beefier 16v model and you should be good (except for spending more $$)
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TL;DR:
Most 16V 10VA transformers will not provide enough current to power the doorbell AND (one) mechanical chime box.
IMO a big miss in product testing / R&D. (even with the “A 16V 10VA transformer sits at the lower end of the power supply spectrum…” warning message).
I had the same problem as most people here: video doorbell, video feed and notifications worked fine BUT the mechanical chime did not. I tried the alternate wiring as suggested by support but the chime only sometimes worked and my 10VA transformer hummed (and some believe having a constant current running through the chime can shorten its life).
Wyze accepted a return for the first one, I went through same troubleshooting on the second before noticing their “16V 10VA transformer sits at the lower end…” warning. After many hours and several days of troubleshooting, upgrading to a 16V 30VA transformer solved all the problems. I wish this was made more clear.
Side note for anyone that has 2 separate mechanical chime boxes (upstairs and downstairs for example), once you bump up the transformer, powering two chimes works great (1 doorbell, 1 chime controller, 2 mechanical chime boxes)
Mines the same. I bought the Wyze 2 because I could use my mechanical Nutone chime.
Seems Wyze has a lot of people complaining.
What’s the answer Wyze. My chime worked and now it doesn’t.
Darn, seeing the same issue. Obviously wyze just completely skipped testing.
Yes. And it seems they wanted to get to market that they didn’t stop and care about how the product came out.
It’s becoming like a Microsoft product. Not perfect ever and then just release and fix with patches. Lol.
But now a lot of people are having the same problem and it shows they didn’t do due diligence on the product.
I had the same problem. Discovered there is an alternate wireing for the chime controller on the Wyze Website. Disconnect the white wire from the chime and move the red wire from the transformer terminal to the front door terminal on the chime. It works!! You may have to change the chime setting in the app from mechnical to digital to increase the time for the chime to ring.
I see some response by changing out the transformer for one with more power (24v 40va). The response was well written so I gave that a shot, works great now. I pasted below a link for the transformer I bought on Amazon. for $14.91 and free next day delivery for you prime members, but I don’t unnecessarily click links in blogs for security so navigate to Amazon.com and just search " Kitchen Basics 101: 24V 40VA Thermostat Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Adapter Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi, Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello, Ring, Hardwire Door Chime".
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QCCY955?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Adding my voice to the many here. I installed the Wyze Doorbell V2 correctly. The camera functions worked great. We have a mechanical doorbell. The doorbell controller didn’t work. No chime. I found this thread and confirmed we had the bog-standard 16V 10A doorbell transformer so many out there have. It had “May 1997” stamped on it, so yeah… It has served its life.
Headed straight to the Home Depot and purchased the “Defiant Wired 16VAC/30VA Doorbell Transformer, Compatible with all Video Doorbells”. Model 18000044. It is the only doorbell transformer Home Depot had in stock, and was next to all their Nest cameras and other doorbell items.
We have our doorbell transformer electrically wired in a shared box with the furnace, which made things more complicated due to short leads left by the HVAC people. Fortunately we are familiar with electrical work and wired up the new transformer in about 45 minutes. Turned everything on, and now the chime works like a charm!
Am I upset? A little. Is it a big deal? Not for us. I can see how someone who might need to hire an electrician might be a little more disappointed. Wyze should update their installation instructions to call out the need for a higher rated transformer, particularly if it is an older home.
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Our home was built in 2011 in CA, so guess what level of CODE we have. The 10VA transformer is extremely standard and oh by the way it powered my Ring Doorbell, kept the Battery charged and never missed a person alert. I wanted all my cameras on one system, so when this was released, I replaced Ring. I too replaced mine with 30VA and all is working. In my opinion WYZE rushed this to market without enough R&D and testing of multiple scenarios. To this day I have not seen a final response to my open issue. If it were not for this forum, I would either be without an indoor chime, or I would have sent WYZE unit back. They have never addressed WHYwe need the WYZE Chime Controller, just if this wiring configuration doesn’t work, try this one.
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After struggling with this for a few hours with my multimeter, I removed the Wyze controller and connected my mechanical doorbell back with the two wire configuration and it works fine. I am not sure what the Wyze controller even does. I read somewhere that the device is a surge protector but I can no longer find that source. My transformer is the standard 16V 10A AC transformer. It provides 18V at the transformer from my multimeter reading. I just ordered a 16V 30A transformer so I can try the controller again.
My mechanical doorbell kept ringing after I hooked up the Wyze V2 video doorbell and pressed the doorbell button. I had to disconnect a wire from the Wyze chime controller to get it to stop. Any ideas?