You’re welcome, and no apology is necessary! I saw your reply earlier today and would’ve answered sooner, but I needed to warm up my brain and get some coffee in my system before formulating a response, and then some other things jumped in the way. Here goes:
- You’re welcome again. I’d consider opening a ticket just so they’re aware of an issue in case there’s a problem with the unit. As long as you bought it directly from Wyze or an authorized retailer and haven’t done anything to void the warranty, it should still be covered.
- Is that like one of those non-contact voltage testers that looks like a pen or something else? When I ask about the transformer’s rating, what I’m wondering is what the transformer actually says its output should be. (Sometimes the first step in figuring this out is locating the transformer itself. Mine happens to be in a mechanical/storage room in the basement, on the same circuit as the furnace, but yours could be anywhere.) In my non-electrician’s experience, this is usually stamped or engraved on the housing and should show you two numbers: the voltage (expressed in volts (V)) and the apparent power (expressed in volt-amperes (VA)). As an example, see the picture in the Help Center’s Chime Compatibility Check article, which shows “16V 30VA”. Depending on which source you consult (Wyze’s own documentation is inconsistent) Duo Cam Doorbell wants to see either 10-24 V or 16-24 V and ≥10 VA from the transformer. I would guess that there’s a product sticker on the back of the unit that tells you what its AC power requirements are. (What I have powering my mechanical chime and Video Doorbell v2 says it’s rated for 16 V, 10 VA.)
- Like I’ve said before,
I am not an electrician. I enjoy learning and troubleshooting these things, though, and my time with Video Doorbell v2 and other doorbells has definitely been a learning experience. When I asked about output, I was talking about measuring it with a multimeter. That was one of the first things I did (measuring voltage at the old “dumb” doorbell button’s location) prior to installing my Video Doorbell v2, so I knew that I had adequate power there. (Incidentally, I’ve routinely read >18 V AC when I’ve checked my 16 V transformer, and I understand that this is normal.) I’ve been using an inexpensive multimeter and a set of test leads from Harbor Freight for years, and those have served me well. The additional test leads aren’t necessary, but they’re convenient for clipping onto the multimeter probes and other wires or terminals so that I don’t have to hold that all together while I’m adjusting controls on the meter or taking notes or pictures. - Thanks for confirming, and the photo is helpful!
That wasn’t what I expected to see, but I don’t yet know why the jumper connection you made wouldn’t accomplish what you want. (In other words, I think it should be working if the wiring was correct and as expected before you began.) Knowing more about the transformer and what its power output is should fill in some blanks, I think. Is that some kind of digital chime? Mine’s mechanical, similar to what’s shown in the Chime Compatibility Check article. - Yes, the Chime Controller is what you’d use if you want the new doorbell camera (and the old rear doorbell button, in your case) to ring the home’s existing chime. If you don’t want to use it, then the jumper wire should allow you to bypass the chime if you’re confident that it’s wired correctly. If you know for certain that the FRONT and TRANS terminals had the correct wires before you started, then even just disconnecting those wires from the chime’s terminals and connecting them together with a wire nut should close the loop and provide power to the doorbell. This is why I’d be inclined to test things for myself, though, to know that the connections were correct and that you’re getting adequate voltage at the Duo Cam Doorbell’s location. (Again, this is something I learned as I described in my link from #6 in my earlier post.)
- That’s helpful to know that the chime was working before you started. I’m still curious about what your voltage detector is and if it’s just giving you yes/no answers but no actual measurement.
I realize that my responses can get long-winded, but I hope that this is helpful information and that it makes sense. I enjoy problems like this. They make me want to troubleshoot in person but force me to think through what to ask and how to ask it as I try to fill in my mental gaps and try to understand the problem.
Feel free to hit me up with additional questions or let me know when you have an update.