This is the house doorbell chime which has never been opened, it is in the kitchen.
Oh, that’s different. Does it ding-dong!, or is it more like a ringing bell? I was imagining something more like this (from the Help Center article about Video Doorbell v2 chime compatibility):
I still wonder what it looks like inside. If you currently have “dumb” doorbell buttons at your front and back doors that both ring it, then I imagine it’s got power going through it that could be used to power the Video Doorbell Pro at your front door. I’d be really curious about what your transformer shows and what kind of voltage you’d see if you put a multimeter on the wires at the front door, because I wonder if just hooking up the Video Doorbell Pro to that would be sufficient. (We don’t really care about chime compatibility in this case, because Video Doorbell Pro doesn’t have the ability to actuate a home’s built-in chime; we just want to provide reliable power and still have Video Doorbell Pro wirelessly tethered to Chime Pro.)
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Right, thanks. But problems will be for me to first find the transformer and also will need to purchase multi-meter for this purpose. So for this reason, I am thinking that since I will need to purchase an MM then might as well simply get that Amazon item to power the wyze doorbell and be done with it?
The house chime is a very loud ringing sound.
I get ya. I’m stubborn enough that I like testing and figuring these things out (and I’m also friends with my cheap-o Harbor Freight multimeter, which has served me well with a number of DIY electrical projects). The solution that’s best for you is likely different than what I’d choose for myself, and I agree that the transformer you found on Amazon should do the trick. Go for it! 
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Yeah, I will get the Amazon item, will report back when done. I appreciate your willingness and efforts to help with this though, thank you!
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You’re welcome! I like hangin’ out here, and I’ve learned things while dealing with my own Video Doorbell v2 that I hope can be helpful to others. Good luck with your project!
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So guys, I got the transformer mentioned and everything works fine BUT now with the wire attached, I cannot get the doorbell to fit snug unto the backplate anymore, any suggestions please? The wired option should have come with some sort of indented track for the wires to run.
I don’t even see in the photos where you’re running wire from the new transformer. How are you routing the wire? I would expect to see wire ends coming through the door frame and into the rectangular hole in the back plate, just below the “UP ⇧” in your second photo.
For my own doorbell installations, I like to clamp and solder spade terminals (the kind that look like small two-tined forks) onto the wire ends so I have a nice flat surface to slip beneath the screw heads on the terminals on the back of the doorbell camera unit. I think that helps to keep the wires tucked out of the way. Since Video Doorbell Pro is supposed to include two extension wires, I would expect those to have spade terminals already attached to one end of each, and the other end could be nutted or spliced to the exposed wire ends from your transformer. You shouldn’t need a lot of wire length poking through the door frame or wall (if that’s how you’re routing the wire), and once it’s connected to the back of the Video Doorbell Pro, you should be able to push any excess back through the hole so that the doorbell camera unit can slip onto the back plate.
That’s how I’d plan to do it, anyway. Without more information (maybe more pictures), I’m having difficulty seeing your problem.
I now see what you mean. The wire is supposed to attach through the large rectangular opening, so the wire from the transformer has to go “under” the backplate. I was trying to run the wire on ‘top’ of and along the backplate, thus preventing the doorbell from resting flat, unobstructed on the backplate.
So tomorrow I will loosen the backplate and run the wire under it. For clarity, I had to drill a hole under the window to plug the Adapter inside. So the Transformer’s wire runs from under the window to the right side of the backplate.
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Yeah, in a typical wired doorbell configuration (like if the house was wired at the time of construction for a doorbell with 2-conductor wire connecting to an installed mechanical chime, for instance), the wiring would be coming out of the wall near the door and would attach to the doorbell button’s back. Then when the doorbell is mounted to the wall, everything is neatly tucked in behind it. I think that’s what Wyze is expecting users to do here with wiring coming in through the back plate (from behind) and then connecting to the doorbell’s screw terminals. That’s why they give you that big opening in the mount. Then you just push the excess back into the wall or recess or whatever space you have when you slide the doorbell camera unit onto the mounting plate to latch it into place.
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Got it done guys, appreciate the help!
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Great! Thanks for taking the time to report success!
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Hey, just checking to see if you might be able to shed any light on my latest thread please?
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