I’d prefer not to go through the trial and error sequence so I’m hoping someone can help with this wiring.
I’m assuming this would be a “3 or more wires” connection but which would be the correct one?
This isn’t easy to reach so if someone can help get the correct wiring, please let me know
I have a multimeter.
Man, that’s a hack job.
Do not touch the black white or green wires, that’s the AC input to the transformer. The output is the red and red/white, but you should be connecting at the chime, as that’s where the transformer wires should meet the ones that go out to your doorbell. 2 wires means you have a single doorbell button, 3 wires means you have two (with the different chime sounds for each).
None of these. That’s the transformer where it connects to your mains to step voltage down from ~120 V AC to something in the 16-24 V AC range (I’m guessing, assuming you have a compatible transformer). The red wires coming off the transformer’s right side in that photo probably lead to a chime and to your doorbell button location(s). That’s what you need to find.
If you know how to use that, then it can be helpful for confirming appropriate voltage prior to installation and also for troubleshooting. I recommend verifying the wiring at the chime so that you know which wire is coming from the transformer and which is coming from the doorbell button location, and a multimeter can be helpful for discerning that.
If you want to share a photo of your chime, then that could be helpful in determining which wires from your Chime Controller connect where. You connect Video Doorbell v2’s Chime Controller to the chime, not to this transformer (and especially not the mains) in your photo.
As long as you have access to your transformer and can reach that, you could use your multimeter to confirm AC voltage on the load side (the right side in the photo, where the red wires are connected). You can put the cover back on the junction box, because you shouldn’t need to do any work inside that.
I’d also still use the multimeter to confirm AC voltage where you plan to mount the Video Doorbell v2. The sticker on the back should tell you that it expects to see 16-24 V AC.
If you’re unsure of what you’re doing, then the safest route would be to consult an electrician, but this should be a fairly straightforward DIY installation if you exercise caution and reasonable safety practices, take your time, and have an understanding of what you’re dealing with.
I am not an electrician.
Ok. The chime is on the other side of the wall and I could not get it off so I assumed it was not meant to be removed. I just climbed the ladder and was able to remove it with a little force, and it’s only 3 wires.
Unfortunately that doesn’t matter now because when I was trying to mount the video doorbell V2 I realized I need a special mounting plate so it will fit my vinyl siding. Excuse me for assuming that it would be the same mounting type as the Battery Video Doorbell which is currently there now.
The mounting plate and a mounting block (to help cover all the holes) will be here tomorrow, thank you very much next day delivery.
The chime itself likely has a cover that just pulls off and then allows you to see the chime (still attached to the wall) and the exposed terminals, typically FRONT, TRANS, and REAR. You probably already have one wire attached to each of those. If that’s the case—and if you decide not to test the chime wiring to confirm that it’s correct, and if the current chime wiring actually is correct—then you would connect your Chime Controller like this:
Remove the wire from the FRONT terminal and connect this to Chime Controller’s black wire with a wire nut.
Connect Chime Controller’s white wire to the chime’s FRONT terminal.
Connect Chime Controller’s red wire to the chime’s TRANS terminal, leaving the existing transformer wire in place (so you’d have two wires connected to this terminal).If you’re still planning to connect Battery Video Doorbell as your rear doorbell button, then you’d connect your second Chime Controller in a similar fashion. In that case, you’d have multiple wires connected to the chime’s TRANS terminal, as illustrated by the photos at the bottom of the Chime Controller Installation Guide.
When you connect these, you’ll also want to be sure you make the appropriate Doorbell Chime Type selection in the app:
It’s been a while since I’ve gone through the in-app setup for Video Doorbell v2, but I recall that the first time I did that the app didn’t prompt me to select a chime type immediately. I figured it out and configured it appropriately in the settings, and then the app prompted me a couple of days later to select a chime type. 
I was able to get the chime to work with the battery doorbell, but I apparently also need a new chime. The front doorbell is supposed to have ding dong with the back only having a ding, but the front doorbell only has a ding without a dong (
).
That new mechanical chime will be arriving tomorrow with the other mounting stuff.
It’s too bad Amazon didn’t have any Wyze chime controllers because I would’ve ordered one for the back door. The Wyze site has one but I am done ordering stuff for now…
Side note: Why is it so difficult to get support to give me just the instructions for installing the chime after the video doorbell is installed? The app wouldn’t do it nor would support, oddly Google was able to help me out with this..lol.
Is it a mechanical chime? Did you test both sides/terminals? Is something interfering with one of the strikers?
I thought you said in your other topic that this is what you did:
Aside from their own wireless chimes (Wyze Chime with original Video Doorbell v1, Chime Pro with Video Doorbell Pro, or Universal Wi-Fi Chime), Wyze hasn’t sold chimes, AFAIK. All of the Wyze chimes plug into a standard outlet, so no real installation instructions are needed. If you have to install your own chime (like a typical mechanical chime for a wired doorbell), then it should be expected to include its own instructions.
If you have to install/wire a new chime, then please label the wires from your original chime and/or use your multimeter to test and confirm which wires are coming from which location (transformer, front doorbell button, rear doorbell button). I strongly recommend doing your own testing if you understand what you’re doing. Otherwise, you may have chime actuation issues when you connect Chime Controller, Video Doorbell v2, and Battery Video Doorbell into the system.
You should just need to reverse the “front” and “back” wires at the chime.
I imagine that’s the case, but I’m trying to avoid making too many assumptions without seeing the chime, which is why I asked about testing both terminals and striker interference.
Yeah, not a smoking gun, probably the most likely though.
If it changes to “dong ding” then the wrong two wires got swapped. Luckily it is pretty hard to kill a mechanical chime (video doorbell on the other hand…..).
Yeah, and doing a check like that—without doing a proper test with the multimeter—would indicate that the chime is working as intended and that the transformer wire is actually attached to TRANS (if it’s the typical FRONT/TRANS/REAR-type chime). If it were me, though—because of what I learned by troubleshooting my own Video Doorbell v2, Chime Controller, and chime—I’d prefer to get more complete data by doing my own testing.
Yeah, using the multimeter to map out (and label while you’re at it) the wires is the way to go. But most people don’t want to go to those lengths. If OP is willing, definitely the way to go.
A tone and probe set makes this even easier but most people don’t have those around. You can use a long wire and the continuity function on the DMM, or have someone push the button while you check voltage on the return/negative wires to determine which is which.
Heck even without a DMM, once you know which one is the positive (hate to say it, but lick your fingers and touch them til one tickles a bit) and get that connected, then you can just test both of the others one a a time to see which is front and which is rear. The key is tossing a label on everything so when you’re doing all the final connections, nothing gets confused.
I think of the doorbells I’ve worked on, probably 75% had something wrong. Was giving an electrician friend of mine a hard time when he said he can wire up ethernet and other low voltage - told him you can’t even wire doorbells, stay away from ethernet.
Yes I tested both sides and with both doorbells, it just doesn’t dong. In fact the one bar for the front doorbell is loose and you can’t tighten it (probably broken). The doorbell itself is over 30 years old.
That was a typo, I ordered a Wyze Chime previously. I may have made that from my phone and it auto-filled it as a chime controller. The box the Wyze Chime came in is a Wyze box and it was sold via the Wyze store on Amazon. Here is a link to the page.
Installing the mechanical doorbell chime is pretty self explanatory and simple cause it’s the same as the one that doesn’t work. It’s basically plug and play as is and all I need to do is connect the wires.
Nope, the back only has a ding, and the front is supposed to have both but it doesn’t. The wires did not get crossed.
If the bar has fallen off that’s why. I’ve rigged them back in place with a zip tie before. The rubber grommet that holds it on gets dry and falls apart.
May just want to go for a digital/wireless chime at this point and use the transformer to power the doorbell only.
Sometimes the plungers seize up too. If you want to stick with mechanical, they’re cheap at the big box stores. Usually come with a cheap transformer and couple of junk buttons but I’ve seen them separate too.
If you’re talking wiring from nothing, then an ethernet cable is a lot easier to install that a full doorbell system. I know as I’ve done many many ethernet cables (mainly in my own house) and the wiring is easy. When wiring something like a doorbell you have more than one connection point you have to worry about and more than one connection with having to wire in the power and transformer….
I already have one on the way as I mentioned in another reply, somewhere on this post… It will use the transformer that’s already in place.
I’ve seen regular electricians attempt both and it’s a pretty well known issue in the low voltage industry. At least with a mechanical doorbell, if something is backwards, it works to a certain extent. But that metal box you showed has multiple code violations in it, some of which are potentially dangerous.
Ethernet is not easy to wire properly and to spec. I’ve seen electricians use wire nuts on it, or just twist it and use electrical tape. Forget about an RJ45 connector or even a punch down keystone.
Doorbells are actually quite simple as long as you label stuff so you don’t lose track (and for the sake of the next person).
Low voltage wiring should be left to someone that knows low voltage, not just someone who figures “wires are wires”. In the long run it costs more to have someone come out and redo it.
Being in the networking industry for almost 30 years, I thought I’d seen it all, until they started having cable tv installers do ethernet, then the bar fell even lower. Luckily one of my first jobs was premise wiring, it is a good skill to have in your arsenal for when you run into stuff like that.
I don’t have one, but that would make it easier. Even with a digital multimeter and the continuity or resistance setting, it’s pretty easy to determine which wires go where. When I was troubleshooting with my older multimeter, I used the resistance setting (it doesn’t have a dedicated continuity setting with beep) and some test leads just because the alligator clips made testing easier: powering off the circuit at the breaker and then shorting across the two wires coming from the transformer with a test lead (essentially creating one long conductor), then checking wire pairs from the chime until I found those that weren’t showing “infinite” resistance. Once those were labeled and set aside, the rest was cake.
Then you know that you’ve confirmed the wiring yourself and it’s already marked if you have to replace something in the future. 
How loose is “loose”? I would expect some play in the tone bars, otherwise they wouldn’t vibrate well to resonate. Maybe the “dong” is too tight.
Okay, so your plan is to use both the Wyze Universal Wi-Fi Chime and a mechanical chime? I can dig that. I’ve thought about getting a Wi-Fi Chime to try in the basement.
I would still label each wire connected to the terminals of your current chime before disconnecting them (or as you disconnect them). If I understand you correctly so far, then it seems like your FRONT and TRANS (again, I’m guessing about the kind of chime you have) terminals are wired correctly since you reported being able to ring the chime when Battery Video Doorbell is wired. I would guess that the third wire on the REAR terminal is also correct, then, so that’s what I’d use as my baseline when installing the new mechanical chime if you don’t plan to do additional testing.
Also, if you’re still planning to wire Video Doorbell v2 to FRONT and move Battery Video Doorbell to REAR and use both with your new mechanical chime, then I still think you’re going to want to get a second Chime Controller for the Battery Video Doorbell. Otherwise, you may experience buzzing, humming, phantom rings, or other unwanted noises from the mechanical chime.
The new doorbell is installed and working great!
A few things though:
The new doorbell rear and front were labeled incorrectly. When I rang the rear doorbell (still the normal mundane doorbell button and not the camera yet) it ding donged, which is supposed to be just for the front door and the front door only dinged (where the Wyze Chime controller is connected) so I switched them and it works fine.
After installing the new doorbell I realized the old one was in upside down and the bar for the front works fine but it could not bounce up high enough to dong because the spring pushed it back the wrong way.
I need to find some kind of welcome plate or sign to put above the Video Doorbell V2 because of the holes from 3 different video doorbell mounts (the Ring, the battery video doorbell and now the V2) are spread out enough that the mounting plate I have for the V2 is not going to cover it. It would be awesome if I could find one that would surround the whole area. I could use the plate I got for mounting the battery video doorbell on the back door but then I’d have to order another one and the V2 mounting plate for vinyl siding would end up being a waste of money. It was $12 so not that expensive but not something I want to waste.
