See pic. I followed the 2 wire installation to a T. The Wyze is set to mechanical.
should I switch the white and red wires?
or do I need the Wyze chime and choose digital in the app?
I would not consider this a mechanical chime. What Wyze doorbell is installed for this chime?
Video doorbell v2. I just ordered a Wyze chime for it to pair up to.
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Smart move, since dbv2 was designed to work with existing true mechanical chimes. Luckily Wyze re-engineered the wifi chime work with multiple Wyze doorbells.
Why didn’t you set Settings ➜ Chime ➜ Doorbell Chime Type to Digital? What happens if you choose that instead? This appears to be a digital/electronic chime. Was it working as expected prior to installing Video Doorbell v2?
Looking at the manual for this chime, it appears that it does not use batteries when it’s installed as a wired doorbell chime. Apparently batteries are used only if you’re installing this for wireless use and not directly connecting it to a transformer. That makes me wonder how you’ve been using this chime before.
Thank you for including such a clear photo, by the way! 
Based on what I’m seeing in the photo, it does look like Chime Controller is wired correctly, but I’d still have to wonder what else is happening in the system (i.e., if you have an adequate transformer and if that’s properly wired). You could probably get this working with your Video Doorbell v2 if you want to use it as a chime, but more information about your system would be needed, and it would also help if you could do your own testing with a multimeter.
Is that Universal Wi-Fi Chime? That should work as an alternative.
I’ll bust out the volt meter. Now I’m motivated to get it to work as intended. Stay tuned.
Thanks the replies all.
Z
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Being that the chime is battery powered, I would expect the digital setting to work (as there is no transformer power). Pushing the doorbell button (on either a regular button or the video doorbell) should just short the two wires together, which tells the chime to sound. It doesn’t send voltage like a traditional non-battery chime.
The other thing I thought about mentioning in my first post (and then forgot to add before submitting) is this Help Center article: My existing chime won’t ring. You might also want to check Wyze Video Doorbell v2 Chime Compatibility Check. That second article specifically mentions battery-powered chimes as being incompatible, but the manual I found for your chime on Home Depot’s Web site (again, because your photo was so helpful) indicates that this chime can be installed and function as a wired chime powered by a typical transformer, so I really do think you can probably get this thing to work without too much effort if you have the proper transformer and wiring in place (and remove the batteries), and you can also use the Universal Wi-Fi Chime as an additional chime placed somewhere else in your home.
Also, I noticed in this chime’s installation manual the mention of installing a diode at the doorbell button, and I understand this is typical with electronic chimes, but Video Doorbell v2 does not require this, so you should make sure that’s not part of your wiring setup with this doorbell.
I saw that article that said it won’t work with a digital chime but I believe the chime controller fixes that - as it says it will work with both mechanical and digital?
I guess it isn’t clear if OP is using a transformer or not. Normally those battery powered chimes do not have a transformer in the system.
Which article? AFAIK, the most recent video doorbell models (Video Doorbell v2, Duo Cam Doorbell, and Battery Video Doorbell) can all work with mechanical or digital/electronic doorbells if properly wired and configured (including wiring Chime Controller into the system). I know that Video Doorbell v2 and Battery Video Doorbell both have selections for Mechanical and Digital for Doorbell Chime Type (Video Doorbell v2) or My built-in house chime (Battery Video Doorbell). I don’t have any hands-on experience with Duo Cam Doorbell, so I can’t vouch for that one, but I would expect it to have similar options. I haven’t seen a blanket admonition against using digital chimes, but some are described as incompatible out of the box (and some of those have been made to work anyway by enterprising users).
Yeah, and that’s why I said in my first post that more information is needed.
Says not compatible with battery powered chimes. But the main product page says it is, I’m guessing that the article may have come out before the chime controller?
My interpretation of that statement is that it’s referring to chimes that operate strictly on battery power. Because the chime @zmann7 is using can be installed as a battery-powered chime or as a wired chime powered by a transformer, I believe it should be compatible.
I don’t know when that Help Center article may have been written or what changes have been made since it was initially published, but it looks like it was last edited in September 2024. Video Doorbell v2 launched with Chime Controller in October 2023 (though I’ve always thought it weird that my device’s Activation Date is listed as “08/29/2023”).
I think one of the confounding pieces of this puzzle is the presence of the batteries in the photo, which is one of the reasons I initially mentioned this:
They may have been unnecessary if the wires shown in the photo are correct and were actually supplying transformer power as well as a wired connection to the button.
.6 volts is what I’m seeing on both wires at the chime
1.1 to 1.4v at the doorbell only on the white wire
0 volts on the red wire obviously since it’s only connected to the black wire of the Wyze piece
Given the new photos, I’m not quite sure what you’ve done with the chime wiring or what you’re measuring, and I have several unanswered questions at this point:
- Do you have a transformer somewhere in the home?
- If so, then what’s its rated output (V AC and VA)?
- What’s its measured output (V AC)?
- Does it appear to be connected to anything on the load side (i.e., does it have wires connected to its load terminals that appear to be going somewhere, like to a doorbell chime and button)?
- Were you using this chime with another doorbell button before?
- If so, then how was that working?
- Were you using the chime wirelessly (battery powered) with a wireless button?
- Are you certain that the chime rings?
- What does your Video Doorbell v2 unit do?
- Is it operating at all?
- Does it seem to be receiving adequate power?
- Does it live stream as expected?
- Do you possibly have two more wires (one red and one white) connected together in the wall behind the chime?
At this point, I feel like I still don’t have a solid understanding of the system at baseline (before Video Doorbell v2 was installed). I also don’t understand why batteries are in the chime if this is expected to operate as a wired unit. I read this in the “PRECAUTIONS” section of the installation instructions for this chime:
For wireless only installations, this doorbell requires 3 “C” alkaline batteries. Do NOT install batteries if connecting the doorbell to transformer wires.
Additionally, I’m not sure why the last photo shows Chime Controller’s red wire and one of the house wires connected to the chime’s FRONT terminal with nothing connected to TRANS or what that’s expected to accomplish.
This is what I’d do:
- Disconnect Video Doorbell v2.
- Find the transformer. Check its rating. If wires are connected to the load side, then measure the AC voltage across the terminals those wires are connected to. If you can grab a photo of the transformer to share here, then that might be helpful.
- Take the batteries out of the chime. Disconnect Chime Controller and other wires. Measure AC voltage between the two wires (red and white) coming through the back of the chime.
- Reconnect the chime wiring without the Chime Controller. If you were using the chime in a wired installation (i.e., wired doorbell button with diode) before installing Video Doorbell v2, then connect the red and white wires coming through the back of the chime to the FRONT and TRANS terminals as appropriate (however they were before; the original wiring configuration is unclear because you’ve shown the home’s white wire connected to TRANS and FRONT in two different photos).
- Touch the two wires together at the doorbell button location to see if that actuates the doorbell chime. Separate the wires and measure the AC voltage across those.
- You could do additional testing with the multimeter to trace the wiring and confirm which of the wires (red or white) coming into your chime is from the transformer and which is from the front doorbell button location, but that could involve the answer to question #13 above.
If you have an adequate transformer (16-24 V AC, ≥10 VA) and see sufficient voltage at the doorbell button’s location and if you’re certain about the correct placement of the wires on the TRANS and FRONT terminals of the chime, then you could connect Chime Controller in the standard fashion (as it appears you did before but without batteries in the chime), reconnect and mount Video Doorbell v2, and set Doorbell Chime Type in the app to Digital with an appropriate delay. I would expect something like that to work if everything else in the system is wired and functioning correctly, but at this point I have too many unanswered questions to know what’s going on.
See new pic. I’ll start completely over here in a bit. I’m not sure where this wire goes (to the camera right?) to or what breaker I would need to flip.
When my chime comes in I’ll just use it.
With the wires disconnected my v2 doorbell cam still has power… slow blinking orange. But offline in the app.
cam appears to be fully powered off now
Hampton Bay WL-108 details
Key Features & Setup for WL-108-A:
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Power:
Requires 3 “C” alkaline batteries for the main unit (chime)
.
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Pairing/Syncing: To pair the button, press and hold the “Sync” button on the chime for 3 seconds. Then, press the push button within 30 seconds.
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Tunes: Press the “Tune” button to cycle through different melodies.
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Reset: Hold the “Sync” button for 10 seconds to factory reset.
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Installation: Can be wall-mounted using the base, with screws and anchors.
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Troubleshooting: If the doorbell does not work, replace the batteries in both the chime and the push button.
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Range: The operating range is approximately 250 feet.
I should’ve mentioned this earlier: 
I am not an electrician.
Having said that, I have done a lot of troubleshooting with my own Video Doorbell v2 and Chime Controller and feel pretty comfortable with it, especially since I determined that my home’s mechanical chime had been wired incorrectly before I moved in (so I fixed that to resolve a chime problem I was having, and that’s why I try not to make too many assumptions about existing installations and prefer testing to confirm the wiring).
Regarding the new picture, I imagine somewhere in the home you have a red and a white wire connected together, like with a nut, and that could be anywhere.[1] I think your previous Video Doorbell v2 photo (the one showing the multimeter) showed a red and a white wire coming out of the wall by the door (looks like the red wire insulation is mostly covered in white paint). I suspect that you also have a red and white wire pair connected to the transformer.
What you describe about your Video Doorbell v2 remaining powered when the wires are disconnected (I’m not sure if you mean disconnected from the chime or from the doorbell) and then shutting down makes sense to me, because that unit has a capacitor inside that keeps it powered for about a minute (more or less) once the low-voltage AC is removed.
That’s probably the easiest thing to do, and I wouldn’t blame you for that. It’s not what I would be inclined to do, but I’m stubborn. 
One of the reasons I bought Video Doorbell v2 in the first place was because I was glad that Wyze had finally released a doorbell camera that could use a home’s existing chime, and I wanted to be able to continue using the working chime. If I was in your situation and had confidence that the chime worked, then I’d want to use that with my new doorbell. While I don’t have a Wi-Fi Chime myself, I like the concept and appreciate that it offers some additional flexibility, especially since you can use it with other Wyze Cams.
If you’re not going to use this existing electronic chime at all (if you’re going to use only the Universal Wi-Fi Chime), then you could probably just connect the chime’s red and white wires together to bypass the chime entirely and merely use your transformer to power the Video Doorbell v2. If you want to use Chime Controller for its fuse capacity, then you could also install that in the circuit, but in order to do that I think you’d still want to know which wire at the chime (red or white) is from the transformer side and which is from the doorbell button side.[2]
I’m not sure what your meter is supposed to be reading in that photo. I see the red probe on the chime’s white wire, but I don’t see the black probe touching anything.
According to the manual I linked in a previous post, batteries are not to be used if the chime in connected to a transformer (the instructions note this in several places), and the SYNC button is only for getting the chime connected to a wireless doorbell button. If you’re installing this with a typical wired doorbell button, you wouldn’t use SYNC at all.
Edit @ 2026-02-26T20:36:41Z
Just as an example of what I’d expect to see in terms of your measured voltage, this is what I see when I test my transformer that’s rated for 16 V AC, 10 VA:
Whenever I’ve measured the voltage at the doorbell button wires, I’ve consistently read in excess of 18 V AC.
It’s also possible that you have three red/white pairs that come together at some location so that several wire nut connections are hooking things up to complete the typical doorbell circuit. ↩︎
See also Can I use Wyze Video Doorbell v2 if my in-house chime is broken? ↩︎
There are a couple ways to wire those battery chimes. You need to determine if you have a transformer (usually near your electrical panel) and if it is actually working or not.
If not, the chime purely runs off battery and the wires running to it just close the circuit when you push the doorbell button. In that case, you should set the doorbell to “digital” chime. The doorbell will only run off its own battery, it will not charge from the wiring.
If you do have a transformer then the wiring is different and in that case you’d likely need to set the doorbell to “mechanical” but you’d need to get the wiring sorted first. Normally it goes transformer → chime → doorbell for the + and then just a straight run from doorbell back to chime for -. Given the number of wires you have there, does not appear that’s how yours is set up, but it could be spliced together somewhere else.