I’ve searched and searched but can’t find a definitive answer: can you successfully use a Doorbell V2 if you don’t have any existing doorbell wiring or chime? Assume it is hooked up to 24V/40VA power. Will there be any issues with the camera if a chime/chime controller is not in the loop?
I understand the official position on this is “Get the Doorbell Pro”. But I want the SD card recording, and there are other ways to get a V2 doorbell press to trigger a chime or notification.
Here’s my proposed setup: Get a plug-in 24V 40VA transformer, plug it in to the wall and run the wire to power the doorbell. No chime or controller in the loop, just power. Then use a Cam OG as the chime (and/or through notifications). Will this work?
I have this exact setup. Alexa was being used as my chime. It used to work great, but something changed in the last month or so, where Alexa integration broke. Currently not sure where the problem resides, but it doesn’t work all the time. Check other forum that we are talking about this. Doorbell V2 and Alexa notification issues. Hopefully they get it fixed soon.
I’ll start with my standard disclaimer that I am not an electrician, but I think your proposed solution would work. If I were doing it, though, I’d consider a couple of modifications to the plan:
If you’re not planning to have the Video Doorbell v2 connected to a chime at all—thus not powering a chime—then I’m not sure you need that much power from your transformer. I’ve been using my Video Doorbell v2 for nearly a year with this house’s pre-existing 10VA/16V transformer and built-in chime and just recently tested it again (though not under “ring” load) and read 18.5 V AC at the transformer and 18.9 V AC at the chime box. I say that just so you’re aware that a lower-power transformer might be a place to save a little money, but I believe that what you’re proposing would work just as well.
Because one of the Chime Controller’s functions is to protect the doorbell, I’d go ahead and install it by connecting the Chime Controller’s red wire to your transformer’s “line” side and the Chime Controller’s black wire to one of the wires in the conductor pair going to your doorbell’s screw terminals, leaving the white wire unattached (kind of like you would if using the alternate wiring instructions). I’d personally feel better having some kind of fuse in the loop, just in case.
Having said that, you can find other Forum topics where users have connected Video Doorbell Pro to plug-in transformers and reportedly had success with that, and other users report installing Video Doorbell v2 without the Chime Controller (mostly out of frustration, it seems) and have gotten the chime to work, though that wouldn’t apply to the scenario you describe; that’s just to say that Video Doorbell v2 can work without the Chime Controller installed.
As far as getting some kind of chime sound, I think the “Cameras as Chime” feature can sometimes be flaky, though that’s potentially getting better, and there are other options (like Google Home devices and potentially Amazon Alexa/Echo devices) if you’re looking for something besides notifications on your phone whenever someone presses the doorbell button.
Thanks for the responses, sounds like I can get things to work. The beefier transformer won’t hurt anything, right? There’s very little price difference between the differently-spec’ed models on Amazn and I want to be sure that the transformer can handle whatever current the camera draws.
I know the chime controller has a fuse, but I’m not sure where I would mount it in my situation. Does anyone know the fuse rating? A simple in-line fuse holder with the right rating might be easier to hide somewhere. OTOH, what kind of surge is the fuse protecting the camera from? All my other Wyze cams plug into the wall, and none of them have a fuse. Any surge that took out the doorbell would take out everything else too, right?
I also have read the threads that “camera as chime” and even the smart device integration are sometimes flaky, but fingers crossed and I’ll deal with that if it comes up. I just want 24/7 SD recording for my blank-slate installation.
Since I don’t have a chime, I never used the fuse and set the chime controller to none. This is the transformer that I used. Have had no issues with the power side of things. 16.5V 40VA Burglar Alarm Systems and Doorbell Transformer,16.5V Plug in Transformer Compatible with All Versions of Doorbell ，Most Security Panels https://a.co/d/1Yb5seu
I’m with you there. That and the ability to use my home’s built-in chime are what attracted me to Video Doorbell v2.
I wouldn’t expect it to. It should be at the top end (24 V AC) of what the doorbell is rated for power input, so I don’t know why that might be a problem. I was just suggesting that it shouldn’t be necessary for you to have that top end power if you aren’t going to have a chime in the loop where actuating that would cause a voltage drop (when the doorbell button is pressed).
What I was seeing on Amazon were wall warts with exposed terminals (supply your own doorbell wire; similar to what @gnavaruban1 linked), so I was imagining peeling the backing off the Video Doorbell v2 Chime Controller’s mounting adhesive and sticking the Chime Controller to the transformer housing, then connecting the black wire directly to one of the transformer’s terminals, and connecting the red wire to one of the two conductors running to your doorbell.
I don’t know what that would be, but I think that’s a good question. On the Chime Controller’s label, it says “Input: 16-24V AC / 50/60Hz ⩽2A”, but that doesn’t really answer the question. I’ve seen a teardown video on YouTube for both the Video Doorbell v2 and Chime Controller, and a more technically experienced person might be able to figure it out from that, but I don’t know what the answer is.
I don’t know if any of the other camera models have any kind of fuse. I strongly suspect that the power adapters might have fuses built into them, but I don’t know that with any certainty.
I think you’re asking good questions, though, and, like I said, you’re probably good to go with your original plan. I was just thinking through what my own approach would be and providing that input as food for thought.
Is that the Doorbell Chime Type setting or something else?
That could work, though slightly uglier than a wall wart all on its own. I may just go without; if the camera gets fried due to a power surge, just chalk it up as a lesson learned and buy a new camera.
Thanks again for the replies, I just wanted some reassurance before I started spending money on things.
I dig. A wall wart’s gonna be ugly enough. I figure sticking the Chime Controller (it’s small; I don’t know the exact dimensions but could measure if you’re interested) to it wouldn’t make it much worse (and I imagine, depending on the size of the plug-in transformer you get, that you might be able to just stick it to the bottom, so potentially it wouldn’t be very conspicuous), and I like at least the theoretical safety that it’s supposed to provide.
I may just go without; if the camera gets fried due to a power surge, just chalk it up as a lesson learned and buy a new camera.
