The doorbell chime on the controller the wires are somewhat mysterious to me. I am making the assumption the red and black wires of the contrroller receive the AC voltage from the doorbell transformer. The white wire rings the mechanical bell.
I used the diagram of a front door wiring. But the voltage at the red/black controller is 0.2vac. When WYZE front door button pushed voltage still 0.2.
BTW I am a retired electronic engineer so I know my way around wiring.
My understanding of the Chime Controller is that it contains a relay and a few other components in order to allow current to pass through when the doorbell button is pressed so that the solenoid(s) can actuate the plunger(s) and ring the chime. At least that’s how it seems to work with my home’s built-in mechanical chime.
I’m not sure that I understand what the question is here.
So I can figure out if the Wyze module is working correctly just wanted to know once wired up what should be the voltages going into the controller chime module once it is hooked up.
I’m not sure that I understand what you’re asking. I would think that the voltage going into the Chime Controller would be whatever your transformer is putting into the circuit. Maybe I’m missing something here.
In my own experience with troubleshooting Video Doorbell v2 issues, I discovered at one point what my main problem was: The “hot”/“line” wire coming from the transformer was apparently connected to the chime's FRONT terminal, and what should've been the doorbell's “load” wire was connected to TRANS before I moved into this house. My guess is that it was wired that way at the time of construction or when some repainting or other work was done. (You can click to expand this section.)
I discovered that the red house wire attached to my doorbell chime’s TRANS terminal was actually coming from the doorbell, and the red house wire I’ve had connected to the Chime Controller’s black wire (this red wire which was originally connected to the doorbell chime’s FRONT terminal) was actually coming from the transformer. These had apparently been reversed at the time of the old “dumb” doorbell’s original installation, so I swapped them to their proper locations today.
More Detail:
I installed my own Video Doorbell v2 roughly 11 months ago using the standard wiring installation for the Chime Controller, and everything worked as expected from that time until a couple of months ago, when the chime stopped ringing with a button press. I tried a number of the typical troubleshooting steps and eventually got the chime ringing again somewhat reliably by using the alternate wiring instructions, but the ding-dong! is often accompanied by an unpleasant rattle/hum sound. Wyze Support says that “the buzzing/clicking sound on the chime is normal when an alternative wiring method is used”, but this seems odd to me, and trying to think my way through @fabron72’s wiring situation got me to explore and reevaluate my own doorbell wiring situation, so now I have a better understanding of what’s going on.
This is what I did:
Tested the voltage at my 10VA/16V transformer and read 18.5 V AC.
Turned off power to my doorbell.
Disconnected the house wires in my chime box and labeled the red wire (what I believe would equate to one of @fabron72’s black wires) that was attached to the TRANS terminal. (I wrote “Transformer” on a piece of tape to differentiate it from the other red wire.)
Untwisted the white wires in the chime box that have been twisted together and capped with electrical tape.
Clipped a test lead to the red and white wires at my transformer, effectively shorting across them (probably unnecessary).
Attached my multimeter to the red “Transformer” wire and its paired white wire (as they come into the box through the same insulation sheath), put it in resistance measurement mode, and turned it on, where it settled on “1”, even after double-checking all my connections. Oops.
Attached the multimeter to the other red wire (the one that was initially on the FRONT terminal and has instead been twisted together with the black wire from the Chime Controller) and its paired white wire and tested resistance to get a realistic reading of conductor resistance (which I didn’t record). This is the actual wire pair coming from the transformer!
Removed the Video Doorbell v2 from the wall and disconnected the wires so that I could test resistance again with that air gap and with a test lead clipped across the wires in order to confirm that the red wire which has been connected to TRANS this whole time is actually coming from the doorbell-side wire pair.
Reattached the multimeter to the actual transformer wire pair (now that I know which it is), put it in AC voltage measurement mode, restored power to the doorbell, and turned on the multimeter, which read 18.9 V, confirming that this is actually the transformer wire pair.
Turned off doorbell power again.
Reattached and remounted Video Doorbell v2 outside.
Rewired my chime box:
Twisted the two white wires back together, taped the exposed conductors to insulate them, and tucked them out of the way.
Attached my known transformer red wire to the TRANS terminal along with the red wire from the Chime Controller.
Attached the white Chime Controller wire to the FRONT terminal.
Twisted the black Chime Controller wire together with the remaining red wire (the false “Transformer” wire that I now know is actually coming from the doorbell) after removing my temporary tape label.
Restored power to the doorbell, waited for it to boot up and load a video stream to the Wyze app, and then tested by pressing the button to get a nice ding-dong! from the house’s built-in chime now that the wiring is correct and the Chime Controller is wired back with its true standard wiring installation.
I don’t know if this helps to get you you where you want to go or not. When I first got my Video Doorbell v2, the main thing I checked before installing was the voltage at the wires by the front door to ensure that it was adequate for what the doorbell camera unit expected for input. That worked for me for months. It wasn’t until I spent more time here in the Forum trying to help others and also troubleshooting my own issues and sharing my experience that I got into testing other parts of the system, but it’s never occurred to me to try any specific testing on the Chime Controller itself (whether under load or at rest). That component hasn’t been a problem for me since I corrected the main error in the chime box.
