I have a new VD v2 that I am looking to replace my existing v1 (which I had to add a dedicated transformer and optional Wyze chime module). I am looking for detailed information on the Wyze Chime Controller (WDCWSLU) or ideally the schematic of what is in the black box and what the RED-BLACK-WHITE are connected to in the circuit. My original system is a NuTone IM-4406 base station with an AI-28 or AI-29 optional chime controller. I am not holding my breath until I see the IP present in that controller, but it can’t hurt to ask. And before someone chimes in (see what I did there?) don’t tell me it is not compatible with electronic door chimes. I am an electrical engineer and given enough information, I can make anything compatible with anything!
My thought is if I know the connections and required load, I can have the WCC drive a miniature relay and use the contact to connect to the “FRONT” and “COM” of the NuTone controller and let NuTone do the rest. Any info is most appreciated.
Welcome to the Forum, @Zimbrich! 
I’ve watched this tear-down video on YouTube, which may be enlightening. It includes opening up the Chime Controller.
Thank you for the video link! I actually opened my WCC before I even watched the video. I came to many of the same conclusions regarding parts on the PC board. I have a relay that I am trying to use in place of the chime solenoid but so far, no luck. I’m using an OONO Power Relay I bought on Amazon. This relay works fine if I connect it directly to 24VAC but I can’t get the relay to be controlled from the WCC. I will post again if I make any progress on this little project.
Thanks again for the awesome tip!!
I’m glad that was helpful. I ran across that video in another topic where someone else had posted it months ago.
I’ve also read in yet another topic about someone using a relay with Video Doorbell v2 to actuate multiple built-in chimes in a home (IIRC). That’s beyond my experience, though.
Since you’re attempting to use a chime that isn’t officially compatible, I’ll be interested to see your updates.
So between what I have learned looking at the WCC itself, the YouTube video and many of the Wyze-provided connection diagrams, I tried this configuration:
The Doorbell v2 seems to like this configuration, but the WHITE wire only has 4.003 VAC and when I press the button, it drops to 3.998 VAC. Obviously, the relay does not actuate at these voltages, so I am close but I was wondering if the relay could be too much of a load (not likely, since it has to be similar to the solenoid coil on a standard doorbell chime) or does the WCC white wire act as an NPN output? I will continue working through this issue.
UPDATE: This connection method works! I had to be more patient (not my strong suit) and let the capacitor charge up. It does mention on one of the help posts on the Wyze support page to “wait 20-30 minutes” and also the app on my phone kept popping up with a message that that said “…device is initializing. Try again in 15-20 minutes” or something close to that. I left the unit, WCC and relay all connected on my test bench for over 30 minutes. I was then able to set the “Doorbell Chime Type:” to “digital” and set duration for 1 second (default). When I went back and pushed the button, I heard the local chime from the doorbell and the relay energized for 1 second! Success! So today I will be wiring this all into my front door (replacing the v1) and NuTone IM-4406 Mater Station and IA-29 Chime Module. I plan on putting the WCC and OONO relay in a junction box near the transformer and have one wire run to the doorbell v2 and another run to my IM-4406 Master Station (the one abandoned in place). I will post a picture of the completed junction box as soon as I get it completed.
Updated connection diagram:
Nice work, and thanks for the update! I’m familiar with the Help Center article you mentioned and was reminded of that recently when I briefly connected a second Video Doorbell v2 to my home’s transformer to configure it as a spare. Even though I had it powered up for only a few minutes (basically long enough to do app setup), when I disconnected the wiring its indicator light remained on and it continued transmitting video to my phone for a few seconds before fully powering down. 
Thanks! Hopefully this will save someone else some time. This should work fine with any chime that is out there since it literally mimics a doorbell contact closure, and for the price of a $15 relay, this is a pretty simple solution if I do say so myself.
Seems like it might be a good candidate for a Tips & Tricks topic, especially once you’re finished with the junction box and the rest of the project.
Great diagrams and good information.