This morning I went through my daily routine of turning on the time lapse for my V3 (wish I could just set a schedule for it). However this time it wouldn’t let me turn it on. It said there was no SD card detected. I turned off the camera. Turned it back on. Same problem. Turned off the camera, unplugged it. Waited 10 seconds. Plugged it back in, turned it on, same issue. This time when I turned it off, I disconnected it from the wall, took it into the shop to tighten the mounting screws and check on the SD card. I pulled the card out, and put it back in. Everything looked fine. Hooked it back up on the wall, plugged it in… the red light came on and it made some clicking noises, then the light went out. When I try to check on it, the app reports that the camera is not connected or is not powered on. It’s dead. No matter when I try it won’t turn back on and stay on.
Anyone else run into this, or do I just have a defective unit?
Disconnect power, remove uSD card, connect power press and hold the setup button on the bottom of the camera for 10 seconds. This will reset the camera.
Wait at least 30 seconds for the unit to initiate.
This process can take up to 5 minutes. It’s rare, but it’s possible.
Since I removed it for the reset, I put it in the computer to check it. PC can access it and all the files. Even a check disk reported no errors. I’m reformatting it anyway just to be complete.
Is the V3 so sensitive that problems with the card that the PC can’t detect would still cause the V3 to stop functioning?
The reset seems to have resolved the issue with the V3 starting up. I’m reformatting the SD card and I will be able to test out if all functionality of the V3 has returned to normal.
Is the need for a reset common or just a random occasional thing?
Hi @Brokk Below is additional information on uSD cards. Recomend purchasing a spare card for when this starts having more failures. When the camera attempts to write to a bad cell it kinda gets stuck there and forgets about being a camera. Glad you got it resolved!
Remove the uSD from the camera and test it in your workstation. (Done!)
Check the disk with the command line C:\Windows\system32>ChkDsk X: /r Where X is the uSD card
Format the uSD card FAT32 and un-check the default “Quick” option so it can mask out bad cells. Note: The Format from the Wyze App is a Quick Format
Quick format just marks the partition as “formatted” and destroys the journal that keeps tracks of the files and their locations on hard drive.
Full format will clear files completely from the partition, rebuild the file system, volume label, and cluster size, and scans partition for logical bad sectors; that’s why full format is slower than quick format. Wyze devices must always use the FAT32 format.
Preferable to use High Endurance cards in your device.
Info On HE Cards High Endurance Cards
I did the long/slow format just now. Two hours??? Put the card back in the camera. Plugged it in… back to the same behavior. Won’t boot up. So it doesn’t like the card, for whatever reason. I had just bought a second V3 with a card from Wyze, so I will try that card instead. Hopefully the ones they sell on the site are High Endurance.
After a reset, all is fine. (no card) However, if I unplug it, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in, it goes back to the same issue. Red light, a few clicks, then light goes off. App can’t connect to the camera unless I do another reset.
I initially tried it with the new card and had the same issue, but then pulled the card and tried power cycling after the reset only to discover the same issue with no card at all.
That doesn’t sound good. Reproduce the problem and generate a Log file before powering off as that erases the Cam’s DRAM.
When you open the Support Ticket include the Log Ticket Number so they are associated.
The Wyze Wizzards can more acurately diagnose the problem from the Log file directed by your description of the problem.
The problem, is that it won’t power on (and stay on), for me to connect to the unit.
After a reset, it all works fine, so I could send them a log of everything working great. After I unplug it, and plug it back in, it won’t come back on, so there is no way to see/capture/transfer the log of it not running…
Thats OK, just make the log of it working and explain in the log what is happening and that you can not capture log when it fails.
They may see an element that is staged in memory and causing the failure on power up.
I spent about an hour in an online chat and we seem to have gotten it working. We rolled back to an earlier version of the firmware, then later applied the latest again. As long as I give a delay after powering up the unit and before trying to connect, it seems to work now.
