Oh, so you want to rule out the absence of the Chime Controller as the issue. I guess that makes more sense.
The Help Center site seems to stress the importance of the Chime Controller, even if the home’s mechanical chime is broken:
To protect Wyze Video Doorbell v2 from power surges!
We highly recommend installing Wyze Doorbell Chime Controller to your non-functional chime to ensure there’s proper power connecting your doorbell. Also, the fuse wire in the included chime controller protects your new doorbell from high voltage that may cause damage.
So they recommend it, and I can imagine how someone might wire that into the circuit just to have the fuse there for protection. I have this vague recollection of reading elsewhere on the Forum that someone from Wyze might have suggested omitting the Chime Controller from the installation if having it in place was causing problems, but I’m not finding that post at the moment, and my memory is fallible. If you poke around, you can certainly find examples of Forum users who describe successful operation of Video Doorbell v2 without the Chime Controller.
The bullet points you shared jibe with another Help Center article.
Do you have adequate power at the location where you installed the new Doorbell? Did you test? (I recently described doing that in a different topic. I don’t know if that will be helpful to you or not. I’m including it here just in case.)
If the first Video Doorbell v2 unit Wyze sent you had connection issues, then I wonder about at least three things:
- Did it have an adequate Wi-Fi signal?
- Did it have adequate power?
- What firmware version(s) did you use?
The answer to the first question is probably a “yes”, but it’s something I’d want to check at that location.
The answer to the second question is probably also a “yes”, especially since you had an electrician install a transformer for this purpose, but I’d still want to know the power rating of the transformer and the actual power reading at the Doorbell’s location.
The answer to the third question is still an unknown, but I’d want to know this because some Video Doorbell v2 firmware updates have been released specifically to address connectivity issues.
I’m also still not sure what you mean when you say that you checked the connections. I imagine that you determined that the things that are supposed to make contact with each other (wires to terminals) were actually in contact, but that’s not the same as testing the voltage in a circuit.
I would guess that you should be able to get this thing working (assuming the current Doorbell isn’t a defective unit) either with or without the Chime Controller (which I think probably isn’t the issue), and even without an actual chime in the house, because the end of the Chime Controller Installation Guide seems to indicate that it’s possible. I’m interested to learn if anyone else “chimes” (
at myself) in and what else I might be missing.