There is one screw that can be difficult to remove. It is down inside the camera. The printed circuit boards are attached to a carrier which slides out of the housing once this screw is removed. Don’t use a Philips screwdriver with a pointed end. The drive is very shallow compared to the other screws, so a nice pointy Philips screwdriver will bottom out and the head will be damaged
To this day, this is still the only documented tear down of this camera I could find. Your pics gave me the information and courage I needed to do the antenna modification to this model and refocusing the lens for < 25 cm. I’m pleased to report that the new antenna is working better than ever and I managed to do this without breaking any parts (squeezing the case a little bypasses the clips).
With that in mind, I have 5 more cameras to do this to and I have the video architecture to create a youtube video. Now that I’m confident I can do this without fowling it up, I’ll create a youtube video for the teardown of this camera.
Thanks for posting this. Without it, I’d be too afraid to crack it open.
i had to rip mine apart when water got in it somehow and it wouldnt charge anymore. pretty sure water got all the wate inside the battery. still troubleshooting. hoping i put the black wires back in the right spot on the battery side
I was going to replace the battery, but the only suitable replacements cost about 1/3 the price of a new v2 outdoor. So, I decided that I am going to bypass the battery and power the camera directly to the 5vdc USB cable.
I haven’t spent very much time on this project yet, but applying 7vdc to the severed battery terminals doesn’t work, nor does applying 5vdc to the black/red wires (severed from the battery charging circuit). My guess is that the camera is expecting a batter status signal from the charging circuit via the yellow/white wires.
I’ve only spent less than 1 hour on this, but I’d be interested in learning anything about this circuit and if anyone has already successfully hacked this camera circuit.