Hello People.
Below is another idea for protecting V3 speaker holes from rain while providing some air space for heat exchange or sound waves.
This is the link to the STL file, of course no charge:
The functionality of the printed Back Cap could be duplicated with a U-shaped piece of cardboard taped across the back and onto the camera.
Victor Maletic.
Buy a cheap cover from Amazon. I’ve purchased black rubber covers for my Outdoor cams to mostly hide them, but also offer protection and they work great. I realize the main issue is Wyze weatherproofing. But I wonder out of the thousands of v3 out there how many have had this water issue.
PEF Mount for All-New Wyze Cam V3 ONLY, Weatherproof Protective Cover and 360 Degree Adjustable Wall Mount Solid Housing for Wyze V3 Outdoor Indoor Smart Home Camera System (White, 1 Pack) Amazon.com
That covers the speaker holes, wonder if sounds still work.
If it doesn’t, why even get this mount? Just cover the holes then.
And whales and probably other water-living creatures, while I’m here:
Hello You All and @tnkasper.
The link that tnkasper provided in his post #28 for the camera mount shown below is a very good one.
Many of the older analog cameras came with them built-in as seen below.
Incorporation of paddles can increase camera positioning options while reducing the need to drill holes into wall surfaces. The camera mounting holes require careful attention to positioning (while on a ladder). Attaching the camera to a paddle can be done while it is on the workbench. Mounting the paddle to a rafter doesn’t require any great detail (of course rafters are needed). See pictures below.
Victor Maletic.
When you want to attach a picture to a response, click on the Up-Arrow symbol above the message window. Then follow the prompts to the directory where the image is stored.
Hello People.
For those of you concerned with V3, rain intrusion through speaker holes, or heat build-up from coverings, loss of speaker function, or cost. Look at post #27 above.
It will:
Keep out direct rain.
Allow for heat exchange (although heat is probably not an issue).
Probably allow sound transmission (although I don’t really know).
No new mount needed.
Is inexpensive to print or make (the printed version uses about 50 cents worth of filiment-public library).
Victor Maletic.
Thank you for your service! Going to print this now!
Hello, millettcf.
I would like to see a picture of the printed Back Cap and one of it fastened to the back of a V3?
I was planning on doing post 19. Does that one work ok?
Hello, millettcf.
Post 19 is the helmet cover. With a decent printer, it should be fine. I placed 1mm of extra width in the helmet so it may appear loose on the camera. But a little loose is better than undersize. A little tape on the inside surface of the printed helmet, if needed, should make for a snug fit. Let me know how it works out for you?
Hello, Everybody.
In post 28 I linked a 3D print file for an End Cap to protect the camera’s speaker holes from direct rain intrusion. While this End Cap design does the intended job, its appearance could be improved. In the present design, the bottom of the End Cap stops just above the power cord presenting an interrupted appearance.
Version 2 of the End Cap extends, on the outsides, to the bottom of the camera’s body. It would be caulked onto the back of the camera just like the original version, Except there is more caulking surface area. Below is a rendering of version 2 and a link to its .STL file.
Victor Maletic.
I picked up my printed items from the library today (nominal charge to print — 25¢/gram). The helmet is a little loose, so I put some tape underneath the hood to hold it down. I suppose a strong gust could pop it off, but I dunno. The back cap is less useful. I thought it would “snap on” the back; I didn’t know it’d have to glue it to the v3 back. I’ll probably print another hood.
Looks good! 
If you use IR at night and don’t spray the underside of the hood flat black, you’ll probably get IR bounce-back/glare.
Hello, People.
Concerning the Back Cap and Helmet in post 38, my intent for the Back Cap was for it to be used alone and caulked on - not glued - that way it could be removed if the camera was relocated.
As for the Helmet, some Command Tape could be placed between the top of camera and its top inside surface. Before locking down the Helmet on the camera, you may want to slip it backwards about 2mm to create a space between the back of the camera and the Helmet.
How well does top curved corners of the Hemet and the Back Cap fit that of the camera? For me measuring the outside curvature radius is difficult. I may reduce the Helmet’s free clearance to 0.5mm and issue another STL file.
Otherwise he prints appear to be nicely done.
Thank you for sharing your pictures.
Hello, People and @StuartG .
When I set up the STL file for a Helmet to protect the V3 from direct rain, I did not give any thought to it muffling the speakers. I have increased the length of the helmet by 5mm to allow for a 5mm air gap between the end of the helmet and the back surface of the V3. Also, the 1mm of clearance has been removed to create a sung fit. The image below shows the modified version Helmet Mod 2.stl.
Below is a link to the corresponding print file:
Helmet Mod 2.stl
Victor Maletic.
Hello, People.
I just got back from the library with my 3D print. The only color they had that I wanted was black. It fit without any slop. The third picture shows a 5mm back clearance to help with sound transmission.
See pictures below:
Hi, I’m back, to finally respond to the revised models, Victor, you mention a “stop” to make space for the speaker. I didn’t see it in the new design, but I independently thought that it could use a block or ridge at the top back so the helmet wouldn’t sit completely against the back. Is that what you meant? Something like the marked-up image I uploaded. I don’t care about the speaker, but for universal use, this would be good.
Also, for my purposes, having less of an overhanging bonnet produces less glare with the IR view.
A colleague who has a 3D printer has been helping me a bit, willing to print them. His aren’t as thick as the one I got from the library, and I can remove strings/strips of plastic from the front to make it shorter, so — when I actually remember — I’ll shorten it manually to see if it improves the glare.
Yes StuartG, that is what I had in mind. A spacer could have been incorporated into the print file. Gluing in or taping in a small piece of material to serve as a spacer is all that is needed. The longer the spacer the shorter the forward overhang of the helmet. No need for trimming. Perhaps there is some kind of tape or coating that can be applied to the underside of the helmet forward edge to absorb or reflect the infrared?
Victor Maletic.
So did you get a free warranty replacement
For what it’s worth, I have a v3 facing straight up at the sky, no protection, been cooking in the sun, torrential downpours, small hail lol. I’m impressed.
