I have a Wyze cam V3. The nearest electrical socket from where I want to place the V3 is 30 feet away. Since we are using the USB cable for power only and not for data, is there a limit to the length of USB cable that will still work with the V3 without significant voltage drop? Also where can I find a long enough USB cable that will work with the V3?
Thanks for any advice and recommendations.
Use a POE injector and a POE>5v usb adapter with an ethernet cable in between.
example POE injector:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NRGJCM6
example POE>usb splitter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HS5FSFM
@speadie’s advice is dead on and the best way to go. 30 feet is probably the maximum you’d get USB to run. I have a V2 at the end of one but I don’t think it gets enough power. The signal from the sensor is noticeably poor (and immediately improves with a shorter run).
Or simply a light weight AC extension cord. Couple bucks and you’re done.
Permanent use of extension cords is frowned upon by the fire department and possibly your home insurance company, because they pose a fire / electrocution hazard.
Try to find an outside cover for that splitter to keep out the weather and I can’t find any.
Get a standard weatherproof project box and add some waterproof cable glands for for the ethernet cable in and the micro usb out.
I had a V2 at the end of a 31’ USB cable run. 25’ Extension + the OEM 6’ cable. It woked fine but I also used a 2.4A USB power supply.
Or you could do this too…
POE alternative
We’re going in circles. 
I am in the process of running 5 V3. I purchased a POE Swtich to handle up to 8 devices. So far everything is working well. I believe one of the cable is longer than 30’. I agree with @speadie, use POE.
Thanks for all your recommendations. I do have some questions. Your 5 V3’s must be spread throughout the house so must be some distance from one another. How do you run the cables from the POE switch to all the V3’s? Do you use a POE switch, a POE injector or a POE converter? (sorry, I am a beginner and am pretty confused by all the different types of equipment). Which POE switch do you use? What cables (USB, Cat5 or Cat6) do you use?
Thanks again.
Chung Yuan Mui
I purchased this POE+ Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082G2G2F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these POE adapters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNKX14C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or this one
I have an advantage where my house is one level, so running from my Garage / Media Closet area to the corners of the house is easily done through the attic. I then cut simple holes in the soffet, installed single gang low voltage mounting brackets and a coverplate. I mount the camera to the cover plate and attach it to the single mounting bracket and run the wire inside the soffet, out of the elements.
I decided on the POE+ Switch as I wanted to be ready for when and If wyze decides to activate the Wored ability of the V3’s. in the October AMA, they indicated that they were looking into this. So I am prepared either way.
For a high current-draw device it would be more risk. Of course it also depends on the care with which the cord is run; protected from rodents, pets, kids, etc. Millions of gadgets wouldn’t be getting any power without “extended” use of extension cords.
True, I suspect the percentage of extension cords that are put to only “temporary” use is rather small.
That said, even if all that is connected at the end of an extension cord is a USB power adapter, if something shorted the extension cord, the result would be the same as if a 1500 watt space heater were connected. The only way to change that would be to put a low amp fuse or breaker “upstream”.
Don’t run extension cords in the attic. It’s not legal for a reason.
The POE solution sounds interesting, but there is some added cost. I’m contemplating making custom usb cables from higher gauge wire. Looking at 18 AVG two wire and 14 AWG outdoor speaker wire. Still figuring out the connectors - can buy them but are for smaller gauge wire. Or I’ll buy some usb cables, cut off the connectors and solder them to my wire. Plug them into a high output usb power adapter. I wish I know what kind of voltage drop the cams can tolerate; it also would be helpful if I knew what gauge these extensions or the v3 power cord use. I saw the gauge on one extension cable & think it was 23 which is a LOT smaller than 18. FWIW, 18 AWG drops to 4.5v at 30’. So I think 30’ is quite conservative. On the 14 AWG I’m looking at, I can run 80’ and keep the voltage above 4.5v. If I did all the calculations right.
Since few people search the forum I re-post this solution often…
Here’s my obligatory Cut-N-Paste as I prefer this over P.O.E. for many reasons…
You could also consider using “Low Voltage Wiring” and burying the wire from an A.C. power outlet (indoors) power supply to the cameras. Then use a 12 volt to 5 volt micro-USB regulator adapter and install to camera. In your case you could run the “Low Voltage Wiring” through the attic too…
The power Supply mounts indoors ( Or a weatherproof location) but the cable to camera can be longer as the 5 volts is regulated at the camera. And Voltage drop due to cable length is not an issue as the regulator will work with as low as 9 volts input.
I have ran over 180 feet of 2 conductor cable to camera with this setup, use low voltage lighting wiring it can be buried, it is weatherproof and UV resistant.
Connect the 12v to 5v micro-USB regulator adapter to cable matching polarity ( +red -black ) along cable where a camera is needed if more than 1 camera just get a 12 volt adapter with more current (Amps) The Adapter regulator is weatherproof except the micro-USB itself but the boot on the V3 takes care of that.
Links below to several power supplies, 1 Amp for 1 camera, 2 Amp for 2 cameras, or 5 amp for 5 cameras,
choose according to your needs. The cable run can have multiple connections for cameras along cable.
12 volt input to 5 volt output micro-USB cable (adapter)
12 volt power supply 1 amp with connector adapter
12 volt power supply 2 amp with connector adapter
12 volt power supply 5 amp with connector adapter
14/2 Low Voltage Landscape Wire - 100 feet
This location originally had a V2 in an enclosure, the 12v to 5v adapter has been exposed to rain, snow, and heat of summer for over 3 years. Recently replaced V2 with a V3
Below is an event captured by this camera, note I don’t use IR as I get too many flying bug triggers.
Edit to Cut-N-Paste
I recently setup that same camera to color night vision with IR LEDS Off here’s a video capture.
That’s another approach- thanks. For me, there are a couple of questions, though. The 12 v to 5v adapter you list is no longer available, and I can’t find any similar that are self contained (not board mountable). And the long 5v run still looks cheaper .
Well that Sucks I was going to get some more of those too 
Found some types on E-Bay but not sure if weatherproof like the hit car brand.
I will update this post with an edit if I find the hit car brand.
I need some more of these too
Also keep checking as they were out of stock before too, and popped up one day and I grabs 6 that day.
Seems they became popular
I checked my stock and feel LUCKY I have one left, will continue to search resources and post if I find anything.
This one is !P-67 rated so should hold up well in weather too.
12v to 5v Micro-USB convertor
.
.
IP-67 - Water and dust proof connectivity products are defined by their Ingress Protection (IP) numbers. … IP67 equipment is the most commonly found in the connectivity market. It is 100% protected against solid objects like dust and sand, and it has been tested to work for at least 30 minutes while under 15cm to 1m of water
