I'm done with this BS

As can the Doorbell Pro and the Floodlight Pro.

As is the case with any Single SSID mixed band network. I have run them on TP-Link and Wyze networks. My current tri-band network broadcasts only one single SSID. When logging in, the router is responsible for determining the best band to use for speed and bandwith based on the signal from the device if it is multi-band capable. If it is only single band capable, the router is forced to use that band as it gets no packet confirmation on the other bands.

No. This is physically impossible for most Wyze cams that are 2.4GHz only. The cam cannot detect, receive, or send data on any band except the 2.4GHz RF. You can’t get FM Radio on your AM transistor. Radio waves don’t work that way.

The problem isn’t with the cam, the problem is with the Google router not allowing the phone, which is operating on the 5GHz network, to communicate with the cam with the same credentials on the 2.4GHz network. When that router broadcasts only one SSID, it maintains a seperate subnet IP scheme for each of the bands, thereby creating only the illusion of a merged, multiband network. That is why the phone has to be logged into the 2.4GHz band to complete the setup… either by forcing a downgrade by distance or by disabling the 5GHz temporarily.

The Mesh networks I have employed, unlike the Google Router, operate a true merged multiband network on the single SSID and IP Scheme.

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Thanks for the detailed explanation. The problem is still (IMO) Wyze failing to highlight the potential issue. Google is considerably bigger than Wyze, so many customers will possibly run into this problem. Seems worth highlighting - esp with new bands coming as well. I understand the camera does not and cannot connect to 5GHz, but it does appear to “try” when it fails

No, it doesn’t “appear” to be connecting to the 5GHz network. It tries to connect to the 2.4GHz network because that is the only band it is capable of receiving and transmitting on but the faulty router with cheap programming isn’t allowing it because the subnet of the Phone doesn’t match even though the credentials do.

Wyze Cam V2 Specifications page:

Wyze Cam V3 Specifications page:

Wyze Cam Pan V2 Specifications page:

Wyze Cam Pan V3 Specifications page:

Wyze Cam OG Specifications page:

Wyze Video Doorbell Specifications page:

From the Basic Troubleshooting Guide within the Wyze Knowledge Articles for every single-band Cam:

Placing the responsibility on Wyze to advertise that some routers, like Google’s, are incapable of properly administering a single SSID multi-band network is an unreasonable expectation. If Google would even listen, that is where this issue needs to be aired.

Y’all are talking about a technology called “Smart Connect”, and it is one of the most diabolical things ever invented for the network ecosystem for those not in the know under the guise of making a network simpler when it does anything but.

Smart Connect despite the name can be quite dumb depending on the particular implementation and environment. These are the two main variables for SC, as for implementation, it can vary drastically from router to router both in methods and quality and is not necessarily related to price or perceived quality of brand.

The second main variable is network environment which is a variable that radically changes from case to case due to a host of conditions, such as materials of the building to number and type of devices or radio noise and everything in between.

The point being is that SC is not a one size fits all assuming it is implemented well and more likely than not requires tuning of advanced features (assuming said advanced features are available) that are way above the head of your average Joe and more often than not require specialized test equipment.

I am by no means an expert on SC (not even close) however I have enough of a working knowledge of how it operates to prefer not touching it with a ten foot pole and this goes doubly for a mixed network with IoT devices. And btw on the subject of IoT devices it is best to have them and your high speed smart devices so called on separate routers for reliability, performance, and security not to mention overall complexity of your network but that’s not always practical.

TLDR Smart Connect regularly handshakes and just because your IoT device such as a camera flawlessly connected doesn’t mean it will stay that way or be simple to troubleshoot.

Decent article on the subject. https://www.digitalcitizen.life/smart-connect/


:clap: Standing Ovation! :clap:

And, to make matters more complex, each router manufacturer disguises their own proprietary flavor of this black magic coding logic behind a different name to make it look appetizing and attractive: Smart Connect, WiFi Fairness, Adaptive QoS (Quality of Service), Device Prioritization, Traffic Control. They all mean the same thing. Coding logic to play a digital shell game with the signal your devices are getting.



…was a particularly unpleasant manifestation of (I think) what y’all are talkin’ about.


From an agnostic Network Engineering standpoint, it’s considered good practice to put IoT devices on separate 2.4Ghz Network using 20Mhz bandwidth. The 2.4Ghz signals can penetrate walls better and achieve longer distance. It’s also recommended to turn off WMM (or any kind of QoS) on IoT Networks but this will limit throughput to 802.11g 54Mbps speeds so analyze the IoT network bandwidth requirements for all devices that will be connected. I don’t use a Google WiFi Access Point that shares SSID & Passwords with both 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz bands but in theory if you disable the WiFi option for “Client Isolation” or “AP Isolation” in the Router or AP then all devices should be able to talk to each other regardless of the band they are connected to.

From a personal standpoint I agree with what others said, you need to put anything WYZE on smart outlets that aren’t WYZE. I use TP-Link link because they will keep running the On/Off Schedules even if WiFi goes down and you can manually power cycle the connected device if WiFi is working.

USB Power is a concern and you shouldn’t believe any seller’s marketing claims for aftermarket Power Cubes or USB cables that exceed the standardized USB 15ft limit. Don’t be deceived by looks - just because a USB cable looks rugged or thick doesn’t mean it can maintain the electrical requirements of a device under load. A power supply putting out the correct voltage at rest may drop under load and not supply enough voltage and/or current. I’ve done voltage tests on USB supplies and cables for a Rasberry Pi and the results varied with identical length cables. A device that appears to be running normal on a borderline voltage & current can do funny things when it needs to draw more power.

Like others have said don’t rely on WYZE for Mission Critical or Personal Safety scenarios. Everything is Beta and you, the consumer, are the Quality Control tester.

I guess we have different viewpoints. To me, your screenshots just reinforce the “hidden in the fine print” nature of Wyze’s info.

I do hope someone wakes Google up to this issue - I’m sure it will be a priority for them, and not a problem for Wyze at all :slight_smile:

Yes. We do have different viewpoints. I take the initiative to read and learn about the products I buy rather than placing the responsibility and accountability for my own education on the company selling the products. Consumers have become far too mentally lazy and incapable of critical thought to manage that. They want the company that makes the product to protect them from their own ignorance.


I think you sum up your viewpoint perfectly. Thanks for that and the info


Hmm hm hm hm hmmm… hm.


Visionary. :frog: :telescope:

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I was primarily using a Mikrotik hAP AC on 5GHz (mostly because of the security and frequent firmware/software [security] upgrades: of which, nothing is better, seriously, nothing), and a mix of re-purposed ad hoc collection of old routers-as-APs.

Back then, offline was frequent for some V3’s, less frequent for others, and I think a couple just never had issues.

Then …my baby bro’ bought a couple of TPLink Omada EAPxxx AP’s, and said I should look at them (to replace my ad-hoc collection) …simply because he liked the UI.

Hmm …FWIW, I should interject here that I’m a sys admin, and support several remote client offices a couple of states away? (BTW, I’d long since previously moved all the offices to various models of Mikrotiks for the frequent security upgrades.)

Anyways. Not only did I end up upgrading my entire AP mix to all TPLink Omada’s (mostly EAP 610s) and such, but mandated it for all the client offices, too. (The Omada line also has frequent security firmware & software upgrades, though less than the Mikrotiks.) Note: for remote offices, we also mandate a TP Link Omada OC200 hardware controller (which makes remote support a no-brainer).

Since we completed those WiFi upgrades a little over a year ago, we have had zip-zero-nada issues with WiFi in the client offices. Nor any complaints. None. Just sayin.

And, not entirely coincidentally, and pertinent to this thread. None of the V3’s have had a non-power related offline incident.

(I did notice the Pan V2 had an offline a few weeks …mostly notable due to not having seen one in so long lol.)

Note: as part of my personal network upgrade, I also replaced the hAP AC with a Mikrotik RB3011 (non-WiFi) router …because I got a really good deal on it lol.

Anyways. My anecdotal recommendation (to the more techie inclined), is for a minimum Mikrotik router - the RB2011 is pretty powerful for home use (if it’s a hAP ACx then TURN OFF the internal WiFi) - and as many TP Link EAP 610’s as needed for your inside coverage area, along with as many outdoor versions as needed there.

(I have a couple of EAP225’s, but while “looking up model names” while writing this reply, I just noticed they have a new EAP610-Outdoor offering …which I will surely be purchasing to replace an EAP225 or two …mostly because the EAP610 support WiFi6 at 1GB+ speeds. Yeah, measured WiFi speeds are typically higher than wire speeds “depending on local environmental conditions”. Who knew.)


Replace your consumer grade router system with a prosumer small business class Mikrotik RB2011, and add as many EAP610’s as coverage dictates (that would typically be qty 2 for a 2500 sq ft ranch style house, and maybe a single EAP225 outdoor for, say, a 1/4 acre lot).

CAVEAT EMPTOR: If you’re not a techie, or don’t have access to a friendly networking techie, there is a fairly steep learning curve involved here. For both the Mikrotiks and the Omada HW. But. It. Will. Be. Worth. It …especially as regards Cam V3 connectivity reliability. (Security peace-of-mind should be the real reason to upgrade tho’. Just sayin’.)

Uh. This was meant as a reply to the poster asking for specific router/WiFi recommendations. But it seems to have moved to the main thread. Sorry. (Dunno how to fix that.)

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:building_construction: :construction_worker_man: :construction_worker_woman: :man_construction_worker: :frog:

Sorry. It resonated when you ‘said’ it. From San Franciscan Nights. :slight_smile:

I was having the same problem, it turns out, if you are not in the US or Canada, it has no way of adjusting the time.

I have to disagree with this. I’m in Central Europe and all of my cameras show the local time. While I’ve had some issues with my cameras, time synchronization has never been one of them.

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This is what i do. I put a alexa enable smart plug that i can turn off and on anywhere in the workld. You can do it from the app the smart plug has released or set it up through alexa. That makes it so that i can cut the power and restart camera if it goes down. It help all kinds. Try that… .they are cheap.

i sware its been 80% terrible for almost three years. i think i pay for service on eight cameras and if they cant bring my event to be viewable im done. ive have had so much patience with Wyze. the plug also is not a good idea. it needs to be reconnected often, physically.

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Hi there - thank you for your reply - I’m only seeing it now - sorry. :woman_shrugging:
I’m VERY DISAPPOINTED IN WYZE :100:- I’m not going to sign up for any subscriptions - so many things are portrayed on the box as part of your cameras function BUT :stop_sign:NOT INCLUDED TAKEN AWAY AFTER 2 WEEKS OF :stop_sign:SETTING THE CUSTOMER UP TO THINK all those WONDERFUL functions are part of the camera BUT :100::bangbang:THEY ARE
NOT :bangbang::flushed: - SUDDENLY TAKEN AWAY :woman_shrugging:YOUR LOCKED OUT OF USING THOSE FUNCTIONS ON THE CAMERA BY WYZE AFTER 2 weeks :100::bangbang: WHAT A WASTE OF :moneybag: - THIS IS TERRIBLE. IF WYZE IS ABLE TO BLOCK YOU FROM HAVING THOSE FUNCTIONS - they certainly ARE MONITORING OTHER THINGS…:bangbang::100:funny I seem to get FAKE ALERTS AFTER MIDNIGHT WHEN IM on my phone doing twitter or something in another room far from the camera - :100::stop_sign:my phone activity is monitored :100::bangbang: fake alerts arrive to get me to subscribe :100: that should be looked into by another source -
There was a PRIVACEY BREACH I READ ABOUT where other people could access your view - why didn’t WYZE CONTACT ME & SEND ME AN ALERT :bangbang: :rotating_light: ABOUT THAT :bangbang::woman_shrugging:
SAYS ALOT ABOUT WYZE :100::bangbang::angry::rage:
The Customer SERVICE IN PHILIPPINES IS LIMITED - they don’t offer any type of compensation for problems the app and camera have caused -it didn’t work when it was needed 3 people entered this place NOTHING RECORDED - that was the first week of having the OG CAMERA - the support in Philippines gave info that is not true - not correct info- put sd card in - that will stop the subscribing advertisements from Wyze bugging me to subscribe -NOT TRUE :bangbang: :bangbang:the app is very complicated -NOT SMOOTH - it needs a make over - to view my sd card alerts recordings IT SHOULD BE SIMPLE - it is the opposite of simple :woman_shrugging::bangbang:WHY are THE ALERTS WHEN THERE IS A NOISE DETECTED OR MOTION SO SLOW TO ARRIVE​:interrobang::interrobang::question: - THE alerts USE TO BE Arriving RIGHT AWAY ?? :interrobang:Why can’t I fast forward through an alert on the sd card view​:interrobang::interrobang: - I HAVE NO TIME FOR THIS MICKEY MOUSE WYZE APP & CAmera. It’s just ridiculous with false alerts day & night of advertisements to subscribe .
:100: If I was away and I got an alert of noise or motion - I’d call police - if it’s a fake alert like they are most often - BIG HUGE PROBLEMS VIA POLICE BEING BOTHERED that needs to be reported to some unrelated office - :interrobang::bangbang::bangbang:WYZE APP FAKE ALERTS WILL CAUSE POLICE BEING CALLED TO FAKE SITUATION - WYZE IS NOT CLUED IN :bangbang::bangbang: - WYZE PRODUCTS CAN NOT BE TRUSTED :100:- sorry but it’s true.
UNLESS YOUR INTO WASTING MONEY AND Subscribing …and still being bothered to sunscribe to a better feature more money that Wyze locked you out of :bangbang::bangbang: A HUGE waste of money - I hope
Consumer protection in Canada might already have complaints from other people that found the same things happening to them- I’ll be checking​:100::angry:
Sorry guys I’ have no time day or night to look at fake alerts that were JUST WYZE PUSHING ads to bug you to do a subscription / with fake alerts -
WYZE HAS BIG PROBLEMS.:100:They seem extremely DESPERATE for SUBSCRIBERS -is it because of something else they did inappropriately :interrobang: :interrobang:who are the guys in corporate - do you know ?:interrobang: Just SAYING….They are not tuned in at all…. they hide like cowards…or as if they know their products are :100: not working properly -hide avoid customers & others.
Waste of TIME THEY ARE and their WYZE products sorry…. I’m just being real​:bangbang:I I sure wish Wyze would snap into caring about customers who buy their product - stop controlling the device- the customer should have FULL CONTROL :100::bangbang:

It’s a shame Wyze went in such a tacky bad direction​:100::bangbang:I really liked the camera - initially but I want to access it myself without a Wyze app - I don’t want WYZE involved with the camera at all - I can’t do that can I with camera info details -
Wyze is locked into the camera big time - I can’t wipe the camera or stop Wyze from being linked to it - this is so unfair - AND VERY STRANGE … so very wrong -:bangbang:
Wyze really looks bad - like a bunch strange control freaks :100:-desperate to get subscribers - taking advantage of consumers big time​:bangbang:
So there you go - sorry for so much info - just try to maybe understand where I’m coming from.
:raising_hand_woman::raising_hand_woman:Hey :bangbang::bangbang:Please. :question:
Take care stay safe & wear :index_pointing_at_the_viewer:your MASKS :index_pointing_at_the_viewer:YOU GUYS! :mask:
You look very smart wearing them & YES I wear mine before I leave til I come home EVEN TO THE GARBAGE CHUTE OR MAIL ROOM AND IN MY CAR - I don’t want covid or any flu -wash your hands and scrub those finger Nails often especially the thumbs guys & girls it’s no fun having covid from a
drive-through Tacco place - the server at the window sounded like he had a cold - a tech friend ….tested positive next day postive 2 weeks it was horrible the things happening to him …he could hardly talk without coughing out of breath …anxiety like crazy …2weeks of not being able to eat much …digestive problems - then again weeks later covid again …then a month later - last year - the senior repair tech of X-ray machines needed by big companies day night to get xray machines up running right away fast- He DIDNT WANT TO WEAR A MASK - yes he’s sorry big time - after affects still happening - long term affects a big concern. Don’t put r your health your abilities -at risk - the cost & lack of meds offered - or fighting with drs or pharmacy’s for covid meds to be given to you - no fun :bangbang: just be smart look intelligent …wear your masks & n95 fit most people blue masks waste of time using - gaps every where.
Think I’ve said enough :raising_hand_woman::index_pointing_at_the_viewer:have a nice evening near or far everyone.
(Why We're Pulling Our Recommendation of Wyze Security Cameras | Wirecutter)

Because you were not one of the 10 users who’s video was viewed by others. You were not affected and therefore didn’t need to be notified. Wyze has been very transparent since the issue occured, was very quick to react to it, and provided regular updates since then. {:point_left: link to official topic} While you may choose to believe what you read on the internet, the credibility of the source should be scrutinized as well.

That is why it is a Cam Plus Trial. If you choose to continue the subscription, or not, that is your choice.

It very well may be. But not by Wyze.

They are limited in what they can do. But, since you aren’t paying Wyze for any subscription, you aren’t out anything.

This can be done with an App called TinyCam Monitor. I have and use TinyCam Monitor Pro (paid version)

I have 27 Wyze cams in place (VDB, V3, V3Pro, PanV1, PanV3, FLP, OGS, OGT), all with Cam Plus, I have the HMS Security System with Professional Monitoring and multiples of every type of sensor, the Thermostat, Vacuum, Nightlights, 3 Wyze Mesh Router Pro’s, many Wyze Bulbs, too many Wyze Plugs to count, and I have more cams sitting and waiting to be installed and more in the shipping pipe right now. I am more than satisfied with how all of them operate. I would personally not own a Wyze Cam used for security purposes without Cam Plus and would gladly pay more for the features Cam Plus and the HMS provide. That being said, they are not plug and play. Every device must be individually tuned for your use case and application environment. These are not Sick-Ups cams. They are more advanced and feature rich than most users realize, if used properly and to their full potential.

If you want to learn how to tune your cam so that it does what you want it to do, there are plenty of friendly satisfied users here in the forum that can help you do that.


Thank you all for your replies and suggestions. We’ll try some of them until we install CCTV instead. It is true that Wyze is cheaper than other providers but in the long run, it’s not worth it for us.