I have nine floodlight pro cams with the three lights. Every one of them goes out and loses connection whenever it gets wet. They have been mounted for about two years now and are of course out of warranty but it’s really frustrating that they don’t work in the rain and are supposedly outdoor weatherproof cameras.
In the first year Wyze did replace two of them for being full of water but the two replacements are also now full of water so it’s sort of pointless.
Hmm, that is strange. I have 7 (6 currently deployed) and none of mine have had connectivity issues in the rain like that.
My first question was going to be to to try to see if it was a connectivity problem or a power problem, but since you said they are “full of water” I am guessing they are totally powered off and aren’t still recording to the MicroSD card.
I think I remember someone once telling me that they had a similar issue once and noticed that one of the FLPros had a little tiny drainage hole in the bottom where it mounts and another didn’t, so they drilled a tiny drainage hole near the bottom of the mount area and never had any problems again. I don’t know your situation or setup, but if this is happening to you where you say it is getting full of water, I would consider looking for a way to make a SMALL drainage hole on the bottom somewhere and possibly looking for other ways to SEAL the top area with some added sealant to reduce leakage. (Note I am not speaking for Wyze or on behalf of Wyze. I am just another user sharing what I would probably do in this situation).
I definitely understand your frustration. I would not be happy about that happening repeatedly either.
I’ve never seen one of the floodlight cams in person so not sure how they attach, but with standard floodlights with motion sensors, the part that mounts to the box or house is not usually waterproof on the back. I’ve found that the foam gasket most of them include is usually too small in diameter or just not very good. At some point I had found a place to buy a box of good quality silicone rubber ones that are a bit larger than the included ones, and seem to last for 10+ years (so far).
The light to box/wall connection is just so hard to get sealed well.
Not sure if that’s the problem here or not since I haven’t seen the floodlight but I’m suspecting it may be something similar.
With some other lights I’ve used that didn’t have a round base and were mounted directly to a wall with recessed box, some good silicone caulk around the top and both sides (leaving the bottom open) has proven reliable too. The recessed box and light mounted directly to wood or siding is really prone to bad sealing.
I also have one mounted on a surface mount box and I just ran a generous bead of caulk around the inside of the round lip on the back and installed it on the round box, can’t see the caulking at all and it is totally sealed.
Those are exactly among the solutions I was thinking of when I wrote that.
I would still put a little tiny drain hole at the bottom to ensure that the water doesn’t fill up and touch the wires.
But yeah I would probably do both things like you were suggesting, create a better seal to ensure water doesn’t get in in the first place, and then put a little drainage hole on the bottom so that even if any water does get in, it just drops right out the bottom and doesn’t fill up with water to the point where it has a pool of water submerging the exposed wires as it sounds is happening in this case.
this was something we noticed when first relased, many people mounted the cam upside down for their specific setup, I don’t know if that was intentional or not but in doing so yes without that drainage hole at the bottom those are the only cameras I’ve ever heard of having water in them with the Pro. and as my guy @R.Good Can attest to during certain time we’ve spent in Seattle, the Floodlight Pro is still my favorite and the one I’ve focused more on than any other. But yes that was the common issue upon first release was just the reverse mounting or I do remember somebody I can’t remember what they had done but I think they might have tried the silicone or sealant feature like Dave mentioned and in doing so they blocked the drainage hole. So it’s something that is critical especially depending on where it’s mounted and how much it is exposed
Yeah whenever I caulk around something outdoors I leave either the entire bottom or at least the lowest inch or two without any. If any water manages to get in, it can drain out, and any moisture/humidity that builds up will air out instead of corroding the wires etc.
I can’t remember if that was a “live and learn” (I’ve replaced my outdoor lights 2-3 times in the 25 or so I’ve been here) or passed down from previous generation (which would have learned it via one of the two same methods).
My biggest enemy is the front of my house faces south and gets brutal sun in the summer. I just re-seeded my front yard with grass intended for Texas, if that doesn’t do it, I’m paving it and putting in more parking.
While I’m a redneck at heart I don’t think the neighbors would appreciate my truck parked on the front lawn
I think I’ve seen what you’re talking about though, it is the stuff they grind off roads before putting a fresh coat on? Eventually after enough hot days and driving on it it will compact and stay pretty well in place?
pretty darn close, when they tear up a blacktop drive or old roads, they crush it up into very fine material, and just like you said, between heat, water and pressure driving on it it compacts wonderfully!
And on the DC side, since the AC side would just trip the breaker.
What is surprising is that usually when you short out DC, it causes permanent damage, but the flood light may have some short circuit protection built in given that it is expected to be in the elements. Though that will only get you so far, eventually corrosion and enough shorts will just kill it for good.