Set up cameras yesterday. V4
All worked fine.
Events were captured and able to view live stream as well.
Even captured a few Events from this morning.
While sitting down having my morning coffee and checking out the live stream, they are all showing
Failed to connect Error : (code - 3005)
As I type this, 3 out of the 4 are now working and only 1 shows the error.
What causes this error?
Nine out of ten times WiFi interference. If you have the option change your 2.4 GHz Chanel to something different than Auto, try 1, 6 or 11.
Thanks.
The issue did resolve itself shortly after posting.
I did give your recommendation a try and changed from Auto to 11.
Yeah, that definitely sounds like overcrowded Chanel.
Hopefully that will solve the issue.
Still getting sporadic errors. Now error code -20006
When was the last time you rebooted your modem/router?
Its a brand new modem.
Replaced/Upgraded about 2 weeks ago.
Check the router settings.
If it has it, disable Universal Beamforming on at least the 2.4ghz band (I do it on 5 also). This is a big one, and is often to blame for wifi signal that seems to fluctuate randomly. Explicit (aka AC/AX) beamforming can be left enabled, nothing really supports it anyway.
Airtime fairness should be disabled unless you have tons of devices (in which case it may or may not be helpful).
Disable 40mhz on 2.4ghz, lock it to 20mhz only. 40 will just cause you headaches and probably get worse performance than 20. Same goes for the 5ghz band, stick with 80, don’t bother trying 160mhz (though that isn’t impacting your cams).
MIMO can go either way, it shouldn’t be causing issues, but you can try disabling that too.
As far as the channel, to be honest most routers are good at choosing the channel (they typically will only do it once at reboot or if you bounce the wifi). But you can fine tune it by looking at what your strongest neighboring signals are and trying one in between them. Generally once you do that, neighboring routers that are set to auto will avoid you.
There used to be a rule to use channels 1/6/11 only, but with modern wifi in residential settings that no longer applies. Center your channel on whatever looks to be the least congested (but note that just looking at neighboring wifi doesn’t actually show you what channel has the most usable RF spectrum/least noise, but for most people that’s the best you can do without special equipment).
If your router has external antennas, typically the best way to orient them is \ | / for 3 or \ | | / for 4. The higher you can get the router the better, and obviously try to avoid any obstructions. Mine is on the ceiling on the 3rd floor and covers all 3 floors with 5ghz no problem, and all over the outside with 2.4ghz, even though I have aluminum siding (luckily lots of windows).
Rebooted this morning.
Still sporadically having issues.
Getting notifications but trouble with live streams.
Here are my available options. The 5.0 is the same but only included the 2.4 since that is what the camera use.
That looks similar to the UI on the AT&T-supplied gateway that I’m using. I wouldn’t necessarily expect this to resolve your issue, but I’d consider changing the WPA Version drop-down to WPA-2 unless you absolutely require WPA1 for some reason. (There’s probably a WPA-2 and WPA-3 option available in the drop-down list, as well, but there have been past reports here in the Forum about problems with WPA3 and Cam v4, IIRC.)
Yes, AT&T.
When the new router arrived, my Nest cameras would no longer connect which is why I switched to these. As an attempt to get the Nest cameras working I changed to be WPA1.
I haven’t tried enabling WPA1 because I don’t have anything on my network that needs it, but having my gateway’s WPA version set for WPA2 only (I haven’t tried enabling WPA3, either) has given me good performance with my Cam v4s, for whatever that’s worth. I’ve occasionally seen both of the error codes you mentioned previously (not exclusively on Cam v4s), but they’ve been transient, and I also don’t know what those specific codes indicate. 
Unfortunately if they don’t give you access to the more advanced settings (via the web interface or an app etc) your hands are somewhat tied. It should be set to WPA2, Nest should work with that, but that shouldn’t impact your connectivity to the Wyze cams. What you’re showing there is what most routers will have on the “basic” wifi settings screen and often there is a second for the advanced stuff, but I’m guessing the ISP routers probably don’t give you access to a lot of it.
ISP routers are known to have pretty lousy wifi. Could get a cheap TP Link router or access point and use it as an “IOT” extension for your Wyze cams.
For the AT&T gateway, that actually is the “Advanced Options” under Home Network > Wi-Fi. 
One of the many, many reasons ISP supplied gateways are garbage.
Xfinity actually supplies a gateway (XB8) with a pretty powerful chipset and lots of available options and tweaks on stock firmware, then they lock it down so you pretty much can change the SSID and password and not much else. But it still has lousy internal antennas and nowhere near the range it should have.
That is from the Advanced Setup screen.
If you’re renting it from your ISP, get your own router (and modem if needed). You’ll have more control and will save money in the long run, and your wifi will be much better if you get a decent router.
If you have fiber service and the router/ONT are one unit (the fiber goes right into the router) you can’t not have it, but you can tell them to put it in bridge mode so you can run your own router off it.
If they will not put it in bridge mode, then just disable their wifi, and get a router that supports AP mode or just a plain AP, and use that for your wireless - their device will just handle the routing portion.
It is a fiber connection.
Don’t believe we are “renting”, but did assume we needed an AT&T router.
A quick google shows :
While you can’t directly replace the AT&T router, you can use your own router by putting the AT&T router into IP Passthrough mode and connecting your router to it.
So i guess possible but would required some work.
Which router is known for strongest and most consistent signal?
Not sure if previously mentioned, but the doorbell is only about 10 feet away from the router so not sure if related to interference.
I assume the new router connects to the main router via network cable to avoid the original issue of wireless signal?
In the Web-based UI (which it looks like you already know how to access), at least some of the settings are likely to be under Firewall > IP Passthrough, and if you choose to do this you’ll also want to disable the gateway’s radios, as @dave27 indicated, which should be at Home Network > Wi-Fi > Advanced Options, as you’ve shown. I don’t know which particular gateway you have, because the UI in your screenshot doesn’t look exactly like what I see on my gateway, but you should be able to plug the model number (i.e., BGW210 or whatever) plus passthrough into a search engine to find instructions that others have written. I haven’t ever done this (haven’t had a particular need), so I can’t comment on the reliability or accuracy of those instructions or recommend a particular guide.
I saw your mention of a doorbell in another topic you started, but I don’t recall seeing any mention of a particular model, so I don’t know if that factors into your experience here.
If you’re using IP passthrough and disabling the gateway’s Wi-Fi, then Ethernet is really your only remaining option to connect to the gateway. You’d connect a cable from one of the gateway’s Ethernet ports to a port on the router (probably the WAN port, depending on the router).
Others here in the community will be able to give much better advice than I can regarding router selection. I’ve had satisfactory performance so far (especially since the fiber upgrade several months ago) with the ISP gateway plus an additional wireless access point, so I haven’t bothered with a router upgrade. I’m not knocking that as an option; I just haven’t had the need and have had other priorities.
