My doorbell v2 works for about one month at a time, goes offline for a few days, then magically appears again. I use both web and Android app, and it is both unpredictable and consistent. I updated firmware just yesterday and BOOM it’s offline again today. It’s not so easy to reboot as my doorbell transformer is hardwired, so I have to reset multiple circuits at the breaker. Help!
What you describe typically points to a couple possibilities. Wifi signal interference or low transformer power or remotely improperly installed chime controller if you are using chime controller.
How far is the router from the doorbell and how many walls or floors does the wifi signal have to travel through to reach the it? Have you tried moving the router closer to the doorbell (realizing it’s easier said than done)?
What is the voltage rating of the transformer? Front and rear doorbells? Do you have a multimeter and can measure voltage at the doorbell?
This conversation may be beneficial to you;
https://forums.wyze.com/t/video-doorbell-v2-unstable-signal/3422055
Additional info: doorbell is flashing yellow. When I push it, my Wyze cameras still ding, so it’s connecting to the network, it’s just “offline” in the app. When it’s online, it always has shown a good wifi signal and voltage reading. I’ve only had it since September, but I had a Ring doorbell there for the ~5 years prior and never had issues. Perhaps it doesn’t play well with my back doorbell, which is still Ring - and which would have been replaced by Wyze but for this very issue. I’ve sent logs but never heard from anyone. Frustrating.
You won’t. You must open a ticket if you want a response from Wyze Support, and the e-mail message you receive after submitting a log should tell you this:
You will not receive a response from our support team. To get in touch, visit our Help Center.
It should also say this:
If you need help, please visit our support site and create a support ticket from the search bar.
Users often conflate log submission and ticket creation, which is probably one of the reasons Wyze created this topic a while ago:
I still think the questions @fmills1d asked above merit answers if you’re seeking peer support here in the Forum. I have an admitted bias toward investigating and ruling out power and wiring issues, because those are often overlooked and potentially easier to address than Wi-Fi signal/quality issues.
Thanks gents. That you volunteer your time to answer my plebe questions is not lost on me.
How far away is the router? ~50 feet (AT&T, Nokia BGW320-505)
Walls and floors: Same floor, 3 walls but 2 are partial
Move closer? Cannot do economically, as noted legacy 1.x Ring had no issues and online Wyze shows green.
Voltage, multimeter: Yes, measured with my Fluke prior to ordering to confirm within range.
Appreciate the clarification on tickets vs. logs. I will open one.
I think a lot of us spend time here because we like trying to answer all kinds of questions. I don’t want to speak for anyone else, but it’s nice to be appreciated, and I find that it’s especially helpful when someone takes the time to answer follow-up questions, so thank you for doing that. 
I have the same thing for AT&T Fiber. It’s been fine in my experience and worked well enough when I added a range extender in access point mode at one point, but I think I’m getting better network performance now that I’ve put it in passthrough mode so that I can use a separate router behind it.
Yes, but what’s your transformer’s rated output (both AC Volts and Volt-Amperes, usually stamped on the transformer), and what do you actually measure and where (i.e., at the transformer, at the doorbell button’s wiring, etc.)? I suspect this is what @fmills1d was trying to get at. It’s the kind of thing I’d ask, anyway.
Does that have their Pro Power Kit or whatever installed in your chime? I don’t have any direct experience with those[1], but I’m trying to get an idea of what you might have in your system.
I’m also wondering if you have enough apparent power (measured in Volt-Amperes [VA]) in the circuit to support both video doorbells. I don’t know what Ring’s requirements are, though, and I don’t know if their requirements vary by model. Wyze’s general recommendation for their wired models is 16-24 V AC, ≥10 VA, though they will tell you that 16 V, 10 VA is the minimum, and you probably want more power (VA) if you’re trying to run two video doorbells.
Additionally, I’d note that they show how a chime box would look to support two Wyze video doorbells wired with Chime Controllers installed, and, again, you probably want more than the minimum transformer power if attempting something like this.
I am not an electrician.
The only video doorbells I’ve installed so far have been from Arlo and Wyze, and both install something into the mechanical chime box in order to get the video doorbell button press to actuate the home’s built-in chime. ↩︎
Tried a number of wifi troubleshooting techniques (disable 5ghz, rescan on 2.4ghz, etc.) but only a factory reset worked. Now I have to re-do my favorites to get them back in the right order, but we’re back up and running. Hoping for a firmware fix to stabilize this thing so I can replace the last Ring!