I have 2 outdoor switches, for a fountain, lights and pump, with app on Apple iPhone. I changed internet provider over the winter, and I need to recouple my switches to my changed wi-fi system. How do I do that?
Or, I see now that it’s asking for bluetooth, instead of wifi. I am trying “Add new device”, and the lights on the switches are blinking, but my phone bluetooth system cannot detect any new devices.
Change the WiFi SSID and password to match the old WiFi and you’re done. All your devices will connect to it.
Wyze doesn’t make an Outdoor Switch. They do make a Wyze Plug Outdoor, but the Wyze Switch is an indoor application.
You shouldn’t need to delete any devices from the app. But, if changing the SSID and PW isn’t an option, doing the setup again while the phone is connected to the network should get them the credentials they need.
The way I read your comment, it seems that you are recommending I should change my entire wifi system settings, throughout my house, to match my old settings. All just to get 2 Wyze switches to work. Sorry, but I’ve got multiple computers, printers, and other devices properly connected to the new wifi system. So, now I want to know how to connect my 2 Wyze switches, to the new wifi system, with the new wifi settings. What commands do I need to use, presumably on my cell phone, to do that? Do I need to delete the old switches, using my cell phone app, before I can re-install them again, as new switches?
I’ve got them installed in waterproof boxes, at the fountain, and want to be able to work them while standing on an outdoor deck, 1 level higher. That’s the entire and only reason I got them. And, they worked fine, last summer (once I figured out how to install and use a “relay” to handle the heavy amperage/power of the pump, without having that level of power going thru the light-weight Wyze switch; that was the subject of a different thread, last summmer). So, all I want & need, now, is to reconnect my switches, to my new wifi system. And, the options shown on my cellphone app, and the things I’ve found on the Wyze website, are NOT helpful, in figuring out how to do THAT.
No. Just do an “add device” setup like you were installing them from scratch. Because they are in the app and you haven’t deleted them, their settings will be saved and you will just be updating them with the new network credentials.
Because you changed your network so long ago and already reconfigured the rest of the network devices, it wouldn’t be prudent to change the SSID and PW now. That would have been the preferred option when you first got the new router so you didn’t have to reconfigure any devices.
Good to go on the switches in the weatherproof boxes. Just wanted to make sure we were both discussing the same hardware devices.
You missed the point. Before connecting ANYTHING to the new WiFi SSID, change the new WiFi hardware to match the SSID & PW of the old WiFi. That way NONE of your devices would need to be reset to the new SSID & PW - not just two Wyze switches.
Before you did all that work, if you would of changed the new WIFI hardware to match the old WIFI SSID/PW, everything should of just connected. That is unless you intentionally wanted to change the WIFI SSID along with the new hardware.
The new system installers got me far enough along, on setting up everything, that I decided to not fight it, and go with a general update/renewal, with new/fresh pw’s and all that. Anyway, back to the switches. Gonna delete the old settings, mainly to clear them out of the way, on my phone screen, and try a re-install, tomorrow.
On that subject, I usually keep any instructions, in “Owner manual” folders on my main computer, but I couldn’t find one there, when I looked, so I assume I was working off paper instructions, the first round. Can anyone give me a link for an owner’s manual, with installation instructions, for the bluetooth-class switches? I did a quick search of the main Wyze website, for one, but couldn’t find one.
And, BTW, thanks for the help, folks. Very kind and cooperative community, here.
Hate to complain, but this is turning into an infuriating nightmare pseudo-wrestling match.
In the set-up instructions, I see the instruction:
“In the Wyze app, select your 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network and enter your network password. Tap Connect.”
Great. All except for, I have tried nearly every option I can think of, and I can-NOT find any button or icon to click that will let me do that.
So . . . HOW DO I DO THAT? WHAT DO I HAVE TO CHOOSE, AND CLICK, TO GET TO THAT COMMAND?
And, BTW, got to say that it has also become severely tiring, and trying, to try to avoid (or, since that is impossible, back out of) all the advertising come-ons for all the OTHER Wyze products, and services, and subscriptions, every time I try to see if THIS button is the one I need.
And, finally – BOTH of my two Wyze switches are blinking, white lights, fairly rapidly (about 1/second). What does THAT mean?
And, just out of curiosity, where should I have gone, to find out what that means, without having to ask, in a support forum?
And, btw, I deleted my old account, created a new one, deleted the old app, and reinstalled the latest version. In case any of that makes a difference.
During the setup process, when the WiFi Network interface appears, all the available WiFi networks your phone is seeing will be shown as available within the list to choose from… provided they have their “Broadcast” setting enabled. It may prove beneficial during the setup to disable your mobile carrier data so that it forces your phone to utilize the WiFi network only.
If you have a single SSID, multi-band network where all frequencies (2.4, 5, 6 GHz) have the same SSID and PW, then you will only see one “home network” (what you or the ISP named it) without any indicator of the band frequency. If, however, you have a split-band network where each band has its own SSID and PW, you should see each of the network SSIDs seperately. This is where the 2.4GHz should be chosen.
You may need to factory reset and place your switches into pairing\setup mode immediately prior to installation setup.
All these Help Articles are available on the Wyze Knowledge Articles link I posted above:
Only if you like adding a bunch of extra work. Not going to restate how to change the SSID since that has already been done.
The saga continues . . .
turns out my new integrated router/modem (ATT; I wouldn’t have, except they buried fiber-optic cable in my front yard, just feet from my house) only has 5 Ghz, in the package I’m paying for.
But, they graciously offered to add a 2.4 Ghz second band, if I would pay them only an extra $65/month, for the rest of my life.
Instead of doing that, I dug out the old dual-band router I had retired, when I took in the new stuff, and hard-wired it to the new ATT modem, via an ethernet cable.
And, it does indeed appears to put out a 2.4 Ghz signal.
The Wyze switches now recognize that 2.4 Ghz signal, and now I can get (consistently and reliably, every cycle, through about 4-5 attempts, so far) 2/3 of the way thru the “Add New Device” routine. I get both:
Connecting to Wyze Cloud – checkmark, yes
Adding Device – checkmark, yes
But . . . “Finishing Setup” – no . . . it grinds for about 45 minutes (if I let it go that long), then it tells me “connection failed”
Is there anything I can do to fix THAT problem?
I’ve already tried rebooting both the modem, and the router (a couple of times, each), but that didn’t help.
I don’t have a Wyze Swtich active at the moment, so I will let others give suggestions about that. Also, I won’t say that I am a router expert, but sometimes using 2 routers at the same time can have NAT conflicts. I’m not saying your struggles are because of or related to that, but maybe someone else can chime in with some knowledge on all that.
Mostly, I just had to comment on the following because I am dumbfounded to read this:
I have seriously never heard of any internet company holding a Router band hostage behind a paywall. Not even Comcast has gone that far, and I wonder if they are furious they didn’t think of it first. I still can’t wrap my head around it. If they can unlock a 2.4GHz band through a subscription, that means the router already has the capability and it costs them nothing to allow you to use it. I am seriously totally dumbfounded here. Shame on you AT&T. I can’t believe I’m going to have to start asking people if their ISP allows them to use the 2.4GHz band now when someone has problems. That’s so outrageous that it would not have ever crossed my mind before now…I mean, it’s one thing to have it turned off by default, but to make someone pay for it or sign a contract to turn it on. I want to not believe this and just hope it is a misunderstanding. Maybe the rep didn’t understand what they were talking about.
Many thanks for your interesting comments. I plan to call ATT again, and see if I get that same answer, consistently.
And, hey, even if that is the company policy, maybe I’ll get lucky, and find some assistant who doesn’t know that, and who agrees to turn on my 2.4 system, without charging me . . .
Plus, 2.4 Ghz goes thru walls and stuff, better than 5.0 ghz, so I’ll tell them I have a very important computer, near one end of my house, and it’s not working worth a dang, without 2.4 G . . .
And/or, maybe I’ll tell them that they will piss off and alienate LOTS of Wyze users – who might start spreading the word that ATT should be avoided, by any Wyze user – if they continue to follow that policy . . .
If you are using a ROUTER with built in WiFi as the 2.4 GHz WiFi, disable all the Router functions (primarily that means DHCP), and connect an Ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on the ATT router to one of the LAN ports (NOT the WAN port) on your old router. That will essentially turn it into an access point - which is what you want.
Better is to use a dedicated Access Point that is nothing more than an access point.
Okay, that “Access Point” comment is VERY interesting. I had never heard of those before. This link is to a model sold via Amazon, for a total of $22. Is this the sort of thing I need?
FYI, for anyone wrestling with similar problems, now or later – to tell which ports, on the back of a modem or router, are LAN (Local Area Network) ports, and which are WAN (Wide Area Network) ports, Google the make and model number of your device, and download a user manual. Mine is the ATT BGW320 (turns out it was made by Nokia, and the Nokia manual is much better and more thorough than the only ATT manual I could find, for a free download without signing up for a subscription service), and that manual can be found here:
In my next post, I’ll try to post an edited screencap, with a partial page from that manual, saying that all 4 of the non-ONT ethernet cable ports, on the back of that router, are indeed LAN ports.
AND, A SHOUT-OUT TO THE FOLKS AT WYZE – IF >> THIS << IS WHAT PEOPLE NEED, TO WORK SOME OF YOUR OUTDOOR STUFF, THEN YOU OUGHT TO LET PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT IT, SIMPLE AND EASY. YOU MIGHT EVEN WANT TO SELL YOUR OWN “ACCESS POINT” DEVICES, AND LET PEOPLE KNOW HOW TO SET THEM UP AND USE THEM. WOULD HAVE SAVED ME ABOUT 6 HOURS OF TIME, FIGURING THIS OUT, AND HAVING TO RELY ON A MOST HELPFUL POST, FROM SOMEONE WHO (I HOPE) JUST HAPPENED TO KNOW THE BEST POSSIBLE ANSWER . . .
Here is the text – dug out from the deep-buried innards of a 48-page user manual – of what those ports are. I don’t know, yet, what makes that 5 GB port different, but the ATT folks told me to NOT use it, so, I suspect that THAT might be the best one, for hooking up an Access Point, withot losing any of my other three ports (all of which I would prefer to keep using for other things inside my house, if I can).
A brief aside – ONT = Optical Network Terminal. Since this modem already contains and uses a direct input, for the fiber-optic cable which brings the signal in, I assume either of 2 things:
Option 1, assumed most likely: it might provide an earlier-generation inlet, to provide a different type of connector, used by older/earlier fiber-optic systems, and allowing that type of backward compatibility might make that type of modem more adaptable and saleable; or,
Option 2: it might be an outlet, to allow an ethernet output to go to a converter device, which will turn the signals back into optical, for transmission to something else.
Don’t know, and don’t really care. Not important for using Wyze switches.
For those who want more info: