Thanks for the response, I will update if I can get it working. If all else fails with 12vDC I’ll try and power it with a 20v drill battery see what happens.
The one that you used on your website, is it an off the shelf model or the pre-order model?
Mine was a pre-order. It would be nice if Wyze had a change log of hardware revisions, but it may not be overly necessary unless it’s a major change.
Yeah that would be nice if they had a revision log, and if they did change something (@Wyze listen up) to where the newer models do not work on 12vDC, they’re missing out on a whole market for RVers wanting this thermostat (maybe legal rights or something to make it not work, I hope not) I’ve gotten some feedback on just my posts about this thermostat working for our Coleman AC and a lot of people want it for their RVs.
I got the pre production model and it works great in my jayco 5th wheel no mods, four wires.
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I installed one in a destination RV permanently setup on some property. Installed on a Coleman AC unit and a Suburban furnace. Works great, I can adjust the temp before we arrive at the RV. We have 2 AC units in the RV, We are holding off buying the second one until the remote sensors come out. They installed both thermostats side by side in the hall. Remote sensors will help with maintaining temp in the front of the RV. The thermostat is always on and has been working for over 6 months without any issues.
So finally got around to the “Off the Shelf” production model and so far it turns on hot wired to a 20vDC DeWalt drill battery.
Tested it on my 12vDC DeWalt battery and it does not turn on.
With the 20v Dewalt battery I registered it to my app, connected it to wifi and updated the software.
Connected it back to the 12v battery and does not turn on.
Connected it to my living room thermostat with verified 13.1 VDC present and still doesn’t turn on.
Connected back to the 20VDC battery and it turns on.
Connected and disconnected a few times and each time I connect if I hear a relay click and it turns on.
So I’m assuming the new models have a higher voltage resistance with the main power relay.
I’m gonna figure out what relay that is and try and force it closed so when 12V DC hits, it powers on.
Doesn’t make sense the Pre-Order models work with 12VDC but the Off the shelf models don’t.
Doing some more digging,
Both Pre-Order model and Off the Shelf model taken apart.
I’m not a an Adruino wiz or anything, just basic understanding for PCBoards and what not. Notice only one difference in the PCB and I don’t even know what it’s called. However there is multiple relays on both PCBs with (after some googling) per the relay data sheet from China, they should all be 5vDC triggering with a customer spec code at the end, both of which have same specs but different customer spec codes which I have no idea.
Anywho, I can hear the Off-the-Shelf model click a relay when it hits 20VDC, and I can hear the Pre-Order model relay click with 12VDC but I cannot determine which one it is by my ears alone. I need a mechanics stethoscope which mine broke.
So I think I’m gonna try and order another one from
Homedepot, and if that doesn’t work with 12VDC, I’m concluded they did something with the new models (vs the preorder models) to not work with 12VDC. But, however if that’s the case… I’m gonna use one of the newer models as a Guinea pig to figure out what they changed to not work with 12VDC anymore.
I don’t know why my last post was deleted, but anywho, last post basically stated that I found a whole lot of Off-The-Shelf Wyze thermostats at Home Depot in person and bought another one to see if it would work on 12vDC and it dows NOT. So before getting to crazy with this trying to figure out and reverse engineer the Wyze thermostat, I looked into getting a voltage StepUp regulator and to my surprise I could get a quantity of 3, voltage StepUp regulators off Amazon for $10 shipped prime (5a max, 5vDC-33VDC). Ordered those and got them the next day. Hooked up the StepUp regulator to my 12V dewalt battery and Tested the new Off-The-Shelf Wyze thermostat and found it turns on at approx 18.2vDC.
So long story short, I now have the new Off-The-Shelf Wyze Thermostat controlling the Living Room AC as well as the Gas Furnace (white wire) in our Keystone Avalanche (Coleman Mac 3.0) using the StepUp regulator to get the darn thermostat to turn on! So far it’s been working good, both heat and AC, and regulator not getting hot or anything, I guess now let’s see how long the regulator lasts ? Lol but it works!
Edit: it’s been powered for over a week now via the step up regulator with no issues, even went out of town and could control the AC from my phone.
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Hey guys, new here.
Also ran into the no power-up issue. Ordered a DC Step up as you did above. Just curious if you stepped it using the RC (+) and C (-) wires.
Just hope to verify before poping the new unit lol.
TheChazz- Did you get an answer to your questions about wiring, and did you get the WYZE T-stat to work?
Has anyone else experienced the same problem of the newer WYZE T-stats not working?
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I did! The step up as mentioned above worked like a charm. Set to 20v DC.
Just a note for anyone in the future, the first boot up took quite a while, maybe 10-15min before I was able to set it up in the app.
I purchased an RV thermostat from Dometic when the factory one in my RV started going out. It replaced my old one perfectly and has been functioning very well for a month now. I love that this thermostat connects to both the air conditioner and the furnace. As you probably know, some models only link to the furnace, which isn’t ideal for someone like me who values convenience.
The Honeywell thermostat struck me because it can function on batteries as well as be connected into the RV electrical circuit. This is one of the nicer-looking thermostats I’ve had the pleasure of using. The screen isn’t as large as most people would want, but it’s adequate for someone looking for a simple yet precise thermostat.
Hello, It’s not an easy task to make it work and hope that Wyse won’t do something that won’t work again with new version on the market. I don’t yet buy my Wyze t-stat. I’m not familiar with setUp regulator, is there a need to isolate it and does it generate heat ?
One more thing, that thing stepup the voltage for the input of the t-stat, so I figure out we have to step down the voltage to all the cable coming out the t-stat (fan, A/C and furnace) Is it the case!
Does this mean that your Wyze thermostat running at 20vdc using the step up dc to dc converter is providing 20vdc to the control board as well, or did you separate Rc from Rh and feed Rh the 12v from the A/C unit to the thermostat? Is that even possible?
Hello, I got the same question. So did you find on your own the answer. if, so, can you reply to me. One more thing, Is there something special to do with the step up dc to dc … like heating dissipation and contacts.
I never found a solution through Wyze but finally found Micro-Air! We installed it in 2021 and it has been working great with our wifi and able to monitor the temperature, turn the heat or a/c on and off remotely! LOVE this product! Micro-Air, Inc.
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My testing confirms that Rc and Rh are connected internally. The likelyhood of being able to run the thermostat at one voltage, and switch a different voltage level is slim to none, unless someone discovers something that I didn’t. To that end, the most straightforward path is to use the thermostat to run independent relays, that CAN switch a voltage different from Rc. Since the Wyze will run on 24vdc, I am bypassing the A/C wall wart in favor of using the 12vdc to 24vdc converter. They are cheap, and should fit behind the big wall plate. The relays will go into the control box cavity to switch the calls for cooling and fan(s). All I am missing at this moment is which wires in the old Duo-Therm ribbon cable represent which function in the control box. they are all grey (10 pin) at the control box and the thermostat, but color coded in the connecting harness. Once I have that information, I will provide the instructions that work=ed for me, and a wiring diagram that works for me. Hoping to dial all this in over the coming weekend. If anyone has the pinout for the ribbon cable for a Duo-Therm 58915.602 that would be a big help. don’t need heat, just A/C and fan.
OK, 2 months later. It turns out that the Dometic controller and thermostat that I have is a little known, and probably too old to bother with system. Dometic refers to it as the “Electronic” controller from the early 90’s. The switching voltages are more like 5 volts than 12. Meanwhile the fan motor on the rear unit failed. That prompted me to do 2 things:
- Get a new unit. I decided on the RecPro (Houghton) unit, which does not have a wall thermostat. It, like many split systems today, uses an IR Remote control. So for the Wyze, all bets are off. Nothing to tie to. However, I did install a Switchbot Hub Mini that has an IR blaster and learning capabilities. I can monitor and control the unit over the internet, which was the original goal.
- Fix the old unit, and finish my work with the Wyze. What I wound up doing is bypassing the controller in the roof unit, and installing 2 dual relays that run at 24v, switching 120vAC. This particular unit has cooling only, and a 3 speed fan. What I need to do now, is to experiment with the Wyze to see if there is some combination of terminals that would give me multi speeds on the fan. Not sure if that’s possible, but if you have some suggestions, let’s hear 'em.
Pics of the prototype controller and Wyze thermostat controlling it.
