It is possible. Depends how far, I know people here have mentioned running as much as 30 feet but it will depend on the cable thickness and current draw (which will be higher on the Pan cams). To rule it out, maybe go back to the original cable for the testing phase.
It is possible it thinks the ceiling is its “home” position because of detection zone, when you reset everything, don’t set up any detection zone or anything, just start with the basics.
Was it ever determined if a power brick with more amperage helped for long cables? I heard the theory, but wondered if it was proven true. Definitely no more than 30 feet.
Basically if the voltage at the end of the wire is too low with no load, additional current will make no difference. If it only drops under load, like with a motor operating, it can help, but will not totally eliminate the load based drop.
If the camera can operate down to say 4.5 volts, it will need more current to account for the lower voltage to equal the same number of watts, which is where a higher rated adapter will typically benefit (assuming the existing adapter can’t provide the extra current needed).
But at some point you have to either increase voltage or reduce the drop by using thicker wire or shorter distances. There are of course devices with voltage regulators that can convert current to voltage, PoE, especially the newer versions, accounts for this, but not these cheap little IOT devices.
My guess would be around 4.5 volts is probably around the minimum (that may even be generous), and that’s under load. Probably why some people notice occasional SD card corruption with long cables, when it seems to operate fine otherwise, it is right on the borderline and if it drops below during a write, things get buggy.
Real world example
I have a large 220V (rated 208 to 250V) air compressor in my garage. When I installed it, I already had a dedicated 12 gauge running to the garage, but it is about a 75’ run (actually it is a bit more complex since I tapped into an 8 gauge electric dryer run that was not in use, since running back to the panel through a finished basement would have been a pain). With the compressor off, it read around 235V (it reads 240V at the panel) so drop not too bad. Compressor running, it dropped close to 200V. Undervolting a motor is a sure way to have it run hot and decrease its lifespan, and considering it was a $600 compressor, not something I wanted to happen. Ran a new 10 gauge, it went to about 238V no load and 225V under full load. Would it have been fine a bit under its rated amount? Probably, but why risk it, I prefer not to run things at either end of their “range” regardless, so even 210 wouldn’t have been ideal for me.
There’s a pretty simple calculation for voltage drop on standard home AC wiring, so I already knew the 12 gauge probably wouldn’t cut it (had to calculate the drop across the 8 gauge section then the 12 gauge section after that) and 10 gauge definitely would, but I tested it just out of curiosity. It lined up pretty well with the calculations.
As expected, current measured with an induction loop dropped on the 10 gauge wire too. After I broke it in, I swapped the included junk oil for Royal Purple and the voltage went up a few volts under load and current decreased a bit, and it ran about 10 degrees cooler. So maybe changing the oil in the Pan cams will let them run at longer distances 
Hey Dave thanks for this.
I think the cable is only 25 foot long. So no more than 30 feet. I’ll grab the original cord, and will try it with that.
I’ll see way it does. Regardless it definitely just moves. No matter how many times I reset the position it ends up moving. This morning I wake up and it’s basically in privacy mode.
Does anyone else have access to the cam via the same login or a guest login, maybe moving it (possibly inadvertently)?
If pan/scan and track motion are off, it should not be moving at all.
25 feet may be pushing it on this cam since it has a motor. Can’t say for sure, but I believe there were people with 30 foot cables having some issues with stationary cams. Using a 2.4amp power supply (largest commonly available USB brick) may help. But that wouldn’t explain the camera moving when those two features are disabled. But yeah I’d definitely test it on the original cable, along with the factory reset and starting over.
I haven’t noticed it in any significant way, either, and I’m not finicky enough with the applications I’ve given my Cam Pan v3s to spend a lot of time looking at it (though I do have a weekly reset Automation just for good measure). I just wanted to mention it here because a new Forum user might not be aware that this issue exists and has been officially acknowledged by Wyze.
One thought I had when I read this was that maybe the camera’s position needed to be reset, and you can do that manually: 
Settings ➜ Advanced Settings ➜ Motor Controls ➜ Reset Position ➜ Reset.
I’m adding that just so @jgarcia1925 is aware that it’s there. Reading further, though, I like @dave27’s suggestions about resetting the camera at this point and trying it with minimal settings changes using the original cable and power supply to see if the problem can be isolated or if it’s a faulty camera or power system. I agree that it’d be good to clear out all the tweaking that’s been done to this point.
Maybe some of @Antonius’s relative bearing grease? 
Variations in light levels can cause your camera to change position. Certain electronic lamps may have a lower refresh rate than others, and although it is not visible to the human eye, it may be visible to the camera sensor. In any case, before doing anything else, I would try to place the camera in a different location and see how it behaves.
No just me. on the controls.
thanks. ill try the reset, if not, i will contact support on this matter again and see what they can do about it.
just to be clear, ive only been testing this with the pan setting on. that is when the camera will move to areas that are no where near the waypoint i set and save. a test i am doing while i am at work today and before i factory reset this thing, is seeing if the camera moves with the pan setting off, and tracking only on right now. if it doesnt seem to move even after detecting the dogs moving about the room, then i know it has something to do with the pan settings perhaps. and at that point, i am not sure if its a power issue, a camera issue, or something else.
@Crease thanks for all the help so far. you both have been really helpful with suggestions. i will update later today as to what else the camera has been doing. So far its been about an hour or so of the test and it seems to be staying in position.
hmmm makes sense. i can always try that as well.
but, i am a bit confused as to how variations in light would affect pan waypoints. So is the camera looking for an image to revert back to and find that location? i can maybe see that with the Detection Zone enabled, but it doesnt make sense to me as a waypoint seems to be a set point for the motors to stop at, so i would imagine that regardless of light, it needs to go back to that position. I fell its similar to a machine that is programmed to move an item a certain amount and to a certain location, and no matter what it needs to repeat that same function. in my case the camera seems to drift and yesterday it was basically at the privacy setting by the end of the night but it was still moving to each side ever ten seconds, but with the camera stuck in the privacy position.
Light changes will only impact the “track motion” not the pan/scan. Pan/scan without track motion should go to your waypoints only (with maybe some slight variation after a few days/week, but the drift isn’t bad on mine).
Dave,
I tried something else just now as well. I have motion tagging off, (it was deleted on in settings) and only have motion tracking. I really don’t get the difference other than the green box, but so far it’s Detected movement from the dogs, and with pan mode off, it’s returning to the position I have it set to currently. Next step is to turn on pan mode, reset the camera motors and leave motion tagging off to see what happens. If it then acts up I know it’s with the pan setting being turned off and I’ll proceed with a factory reset this afternoon.
There might be one too many redundant settings I had on and the camera is freaking out.
Motion tagging is just the green box, that shouldn’t be affecting anything related to the camera movement. Handy if you’re not sure what caused the motion, it points it out.
Motion tracking is where the camera moves and follows things around.
got it. thanks for that explanation…
well, then maybe my theory wont be valid lol. i just turned pan back on. it worked great with pan scan off. so lets see what happens now.
thanks for all the help.
Light changes shouldn’t affect the actual Waypoints, but they can and do affect the camera’s movement if you have Track Motion enabled because of the way most Wyze Cam models detect motion:
Wyze Cam v3 detects motion by comparing pixels changing between video frames. “Motion” is recorded when large clusters of pixels change over time. This large cluster can mean a small object moving close to the camera, or a big object moving farther away (like a tree blowing in the wind).
I realize that article specifically mentions Cam v3, but I believe it also applies to most other Wyze Cam models (exceptions being things like Cam Outdoor and Battery Cam Pro, which can use things like PIR and/or radar in addition to pixel change analysis). It’s why you have to be cognizant of the lighting conditions and their likelihood to change when you’re using automated features (like Track Motion or Trigger-type Automations based on motion detection events with these cameras, as a change in lighting could cause an unwanted re-initiation of an automated action).
I don’t believe so, and I believe something like that has been proposed as a potential solution to the drift issue.
That’s my understanding, as well, thus the drift.
As @dave27 said (and I mentioned much earlier), having Motion Tagging
enabled just gives your videos the green box overlay that indicates what the camera is interpreting as motion. I like this feature because I feel it provides useful information about how the camera is analyzing the data its collecting, and I think the boxes are also helpful for troubleshooting Detection Zone issues, particularly on static cameras.
Track Motion is what actually causes the camera to engage its motors to follow whatever it interprets as movement. Like I said, I don’t use the Pan Scan feature when I have Track Motion enabled. I like having Waypoints set in case I do want to use Pan Scan, but most of the time I have my Cam Pan v3s staring at (and returning to) their main “home” Waypoints where I believe the camera is most likely to capture and begin tracking motion, and that works well for my purposes.
Hi crease, and everyone who has helped and made suggestions.
Last night before bed, I did as some suggested. I plugged it in to the original 6 foot usb cable, ran the reset procedure, set up as new. Tried the pan scan setting with motion tracking. this morning I checked and sure enough, the camera was way out position again.
so at this point im assuming its one of the 2 things. the camera is no good, or how everyone mentions, this is just a matter of the pan scan and DZ zone being basically useless when using motion tracking. Worse case scenario, i use this camera to monitor most of the interior, and i get another camera to catch the small areas this one does not.
Thanks all for the help. At the end I do like these units. the cameras do a decent job otherwise. looking into purchasing the Floodlight Pro next for the back yard 
I appreciate the update, and I think doing the test was useful because it seems to indicate that you can continue to use your longer cable. You might still want to test some other camera functions with the longer cable if you intend to use that. I’m thinking here about things like 2-way audio (which isn’t great with Cam Pan v3, anyway; if you need something like that, you’re much better off with a static Cam v4, and those have sometimes been on sale at or near Cam OG prices) or the siren, which I’ve read can challenge a camera’s power demands, especially if you’re doing continuous recording to microSD at the same time.
I’m still not a fan of using Track Motion and Pan Scan at the same time and so haven’t actually used Pan Scan for well over a year. I appreciate your testing that and describing your experience here, and I may experiment with it more at some point.
Not a problem. Thanks for the help.
I reset it the home position this morning again, and also added one less way point to check. So I’m only having the camera move twice.
So far it’s been on track for well over two hours, but the house is also well lit. I’ll check back when the camera sees some more shadows and darkness and I’ll see what it does again over night. If not I’ll just call it quits and won’t use the pan feature anymore.
Guess I’ll chime in here. I have 3 Pan Scans that have been running about a year.
History
I bought the first unit about end of last year. Installed it in the living room. I was so impressed I decided to get 2 more. Ordered them beginning of 2024. Typically I will test something inside before I deploy it outside. Decided to take existing unit to backyard and replace the living room with the new unit. That when thing got interesting. I’m retired and spend a lot of time in the living room–about 10 ft from the camera. Normally I will have the TV on but early one morning it was off. The room was dead quiet–except for a clicking noise. It was the new camera. As it panned in one direction it was almost dead quiet, just a small hum. But when it reversed direction there was a definite clicking sound. To me it sounded like a gear(s) binding. You could not hear the clicking if the TV was on (in defense of Wyzes hardware supplier I doubt you could hear the clicking on a factory floor) . In my mind this did not bode well for longevity so I did an Amazon return.
I fired up the next camera and the clicking was in both directions. I returned it. Finally got replacements and they were both quiet in both directions. It took 5 cameras to get 3 good ones. The reason I bring this up is the pan Scan uses relative positioning. There is no hard stop or start. How they do this is above my pay grade but as @dave27 said
Or in my case binding gears. Either of these conditions can easily screw up the relative positioning. I never saw anything in the forums about “clicking” noises.
Long winded way of saying in a quiet room listen to the camera as it is panning. You should hear a slight hum in both directions.
Now skip ahead a half year. My 3 have been doing great with both pan and tracking on. Yes, every once in awhile I will see the living room staring at the TV or the backyard staring at the wall but in both cases within a minute or so they go back to panning.
Just so we’re comparing apples to apples all 3 cameras are on camplus and are only looking for persons or pets. Also I have fiddled with detection sensitivity. The living room is at 10, the dining room is 45,the backyard is at 35.i think this reduces lighting changes confusing the cameras.
Hope this helps in your quest.
This is really good to know and maybe more encouragement for me to try the Pan Scan feature again.
I think that’s an important piece of the puzzle, too, and I appreciate your remembering to share this, because I’m not a subscriber and am using only generic motion and sound detection.