My Existing Thermostat has the following wires connected R, B, O, G, W, Y (Picture Attached)
When I go through the WYZE app installation instructions it says to connect :
R to RC
B to C
O to O/B
G to G
W to W1
Y to Y1
(Picture Attached)
I don’t thin this will work unless I do not understand how the thermostat works internally.
I have a standard gas forced air system with Duro-Zone SMZ air damper zone control.
Basically when the thermostat is in heat mode it shorts R-B sending 24V to the B terminal on the control board putting the board in heat logic. In cool mode shorts R-O sending 24 V to the O terminal on the control Board putting the board in cool logic. The 2nd thermostat should be no problem. (Schematic Attached)
I suppose I could install an external switch at the control board to accomplish this but it would be nice if the thermostat could control the board logic.
I had the same set up as you with the durozone smz and I could not find a way to get that to work with any modern thermostat. Plus I never liked the fact that you had to have your “master” thermostat on for the other to work. I ended up swapping out the durozone with a Honeywell truezone controller which solved both the thermostat issue and eliminated the master thermostat requirement. If you have durozone dampers, the wiring to those is a bit tricky so if you do it I can give instructions.
If the thermostat wont do the job, I was thinking I could just install a 3way switch to energize the O or B with 24V. I think that would work and since we only usually switch between heat can cool once in the spring and fall it wouldn’t be too much of a PIA. but if i could swap out the controller relativity easy and inexpensively I might just do that.
What model Honeywell truezone did you go with? I do have the durozone dampers so if you wouldn’t mind sharing the wiring instructions that would be awesome.
Yes, you could do it with a switch but I didn’t want the hassle. I went with the hz322, but only because I got it for about the same price of the hz311 and it has a few other options.
For the wiring of the duro dampers with the hz controller: Terminal 2 from both dampers get tied together and run to your 24v supply. Terminal 1 from each damper goes to M1 for each zone on the hz controller. Terminal 4 from each damper goes to M4 for each zone on the hz controller.
What is the purpose of having 2 terminals that control heat or cooling?
You might be able to trick it by putting a jumper on the W and B terminals, and another jumper on the Y and O terminals on the Zone 1 terminal strip. Then take one of the wires that used to run to O or B and run it to the C terminal from the equipment terminal block.
At the wyze end of the wire, take the wire that you have attached to C on the other end and connect it to C on the wyze. Connect the R, W, Y, and G wires to their respective terminals. Do not tell the wyze that you have an O or B terminal.
