I use another brand that I am not crazy about, however, I was able to cut a section to fit (6ft) above a kitchen cupboard, add in a connector with power extension and clip in another (6ft) Under the same cupboard so I could have the whole cabinet come on together, Not sure why that could not be done here allowing the ability to go up to the full amount for that run if needed -
I would like to see that ability here with the Clips and power extensions to create the full run but in the needed sections.
Could be done, and will be done, as soon as I receive mine. While it could be a little messy, I plan on dissecting and splicing mine to fit my needs. It will be out of sight, and I am technically capable. I will not extend beyond the total 16.4’ or 32.8’, but will reconfigure and splice to length. This will not likely be supported or recommended…but your post is a great one. Thanks for the reminder!
Just got my Light Strip (2 sets) and there’s no connectors in the box. The instructions talk about “trimming” the strip but there are no instructions on how to split a single strip into multiple pieces. I bought these with the hopes of being able to use a single strip as under-cabinet lighting in my kitchen, I need several 2ft-4ft sections for each cabinet and need to split one 16ft strip into multiple pieces so I can split the gap between the cabinets. There’s no way I’m buying 4 sets of strips so that I can throw away 14ft of each one. Lots of other brands include small clips/connectors that can be used to split a single strip into multiple sections and then can be connected via bell wire, but these Wyze strips do not include these types of connectors, which I think is pretty lame. I’m going to buy something like these connectors to see if they will do the job, but I am not sure. Anyway, Wyze should have included these clips in the box and then should have included instructions on how to use them.
@meok The connectors were $8.49 so yes, I had to spend that above and beyond the cost of the light strip. I wish Wyze would have included those connectors in the box so we didn’t have to purchase connectors hoping they would work. However, the wire was something that we’d have to buy regardless because I don’t know of any light strip brands that also include wire. So if you’re planning to split up any brand of strip lights into sections and extend those sections using wire, that is just a cost you’re going to have to spend. I don’t really hold Wyze responsible for the wire. And I’m sure there are cheaper sets of wire you could find and purchase if cost is really critical. I just chose those particular connectors and that particular spool of wire because they seemed to be the most easy to install. But that’s up to you. So while it’s true that I had to spend roughly $9 of my own money to buy these connectors, I think your statement that I “paid over $30 more” is a bit misleading.
@tennisgent Thanks for your reply. Thanks also for posting the links to these needed accessories. I am happy that with these posted product links worked for you…I will try them out. I understand that the connectors are only around $9 (I just ordered them to try) but the other link you posted has the wire @ $23? Unless you bought a shorter length, that is quite pricey, yes?
@meok To answer your question directly, any 18-20 guage low-voltage wire will work great for this project. Here’s some on Amazon that only costs $4 for 25 feet I’m sure you could find something similar at your local Home Depot or Lowes for less. You’ll need 4 wires though because that’s what these light strips require. I just chose the roll of wire that I did because it came with the proper 4-color system (R-G-B-Data) and it was 100ft long so I can re-use the same spool of wire for future projects. But you can use whatever low-voltage wire you want. It doesn’t have to be the particular spool that I originally recommended.
It’s a 4-pin light strip. There’s 4 wires. 1 for power and 3 for RGB. You can see that fairly clearly in the strip’s product listing photo. Or see screenshot here. Any color-changing light strip is going to have 4 wires. If it’s a single-color l ightstrip, it’ll have 2-pins, but all of Wyze’s are 4-pin.
Well would you look at that! I stand corrected. The pro strip clearly has 3 wires, as shown in this screenshot. Personally, I only have the standard wyze light strip so I haven’t paid that close of attention to the pro strip. Sorry for misleading anyone. Looks like you’ll need different connectors for standard vs pro.
Yes the soderless connectors do work with 3 pin and 4 pin light strips! Although with a slight bump or movement the can loose contact. I recommend just to soder the connector anyway. There are small contact pads and bending of the pin may be required to make contact for that terminal. If sodered it will get a stronger and stable connection!!! Now if they would only sell the controller and power supply you could reuse scraps left over from previous instals, and hook-up any brand strip and be able to control through the Wyze app!!
I just finished installing the strip Pro and wanted to add my input, in hopes it helps someone else. I searched for a “cut and reconnect” solution that took me to this thread and ultimately tried the solder technique. I have a Weller solder iron and overcooked one of the copper flats which peeled up from the base and broke off. On a whim, and to salvage my mistake, I decided to try a solderless connector and found these:
The strip Pro I received was 3 conductors, so I went with the 3 pin. The connector kit also advertised that it worked with the coated waterproof strips so I figured it would work with the Wyze Pro design. I cut the strips into the desired lengths and clamped the connectors and extension wires I needed for my design. bench tested for continuity and to my delight everything lit up. Here’s a few pictures of the installed layout (In my home gym). I was worried a connector would loosen up or something while moving around during installation, but everything stayed solid.
The controller is in the corner closet with the two 16’ sections running left and right. The left side is cut in 2 places, and right side in 4 places, with either extensions or bent wire 90’s at the wall corners, bridging windows, doors or gym equipment. We’ll see how this holds up, but I don’t plan on moving or changing anything so I don’t foresee any future problems.
I recommend taking your time planning on where to cut along the 4" increments (designated cut locations), take your time with the connectors ensuring the strip segments and wire are centered and straight before clamping them down. I used needle nose pliers to clamp. I also used masking tape to pull the dust off my mounting edge and the LED strip’s 3M adhesive stuck like a champ (mounted to rough cut cedar board).