Yeah, and that’s what’s really strange about the situation. I wired it according to the standard instructions when I originally installed it, and everything seemed fine: It always had adequate power (which I tested at the original “dumb” doorbell button wires during pre-installation), and the mechanical chime rang for months with a button press (after a brief lag). At some point, the mechanical chime stopped giving a ding-dong! with a button press, so I would Restart the Video Doorbell v2 in the Wyze app, and that seemed to make it work for a day or so. I also found that sometimes holding the doorbell button in would make the mechanical chime ring, too, but that wasn’t reliable or practical, so I tried the method of changing Doorbell Chime Type to Digital and setting a Ring tone length parameter. That worked for about a day. Eventually I rewired the Chime Controller to the mechanical chime using the alternate wiring method, but then occasionally the chime would have this extraneous buzz/rattle/hum when it rang.
While I was trying to help another user here, I did even more testing/investigating of my entire doorbell wiring setup, because this user seemed to be struggling so much, and I wanted to make sure I was giving accurate information from my own experience. Working through that problem got me thinking about my own doorbell problem, and that led to my discovery that the line/live/“hot” wire coming from my transformer wasn’t actually what was connected to the TRANS terminal in my chime box. Once I figured that out, I decided to wire the Chime Controller back to the standard wiring method just to see what would happen, and it’s worked well ever since.