Cam OG wouldn’t be a “bridge”, because Duo Cam Doorbell doesn’t use Wi-Fi Chime (or any chime) in the same way that Video Doorbell Pro uses Chime Pro. In the latter case, my understanding is that Chime Pro does act as a bridge in order to provide a Wi-Fi connection for Video Doorbell Pro. When Duo Cam Doorbell is set up with Wi-Fi Chime, each has its own Wi-Fi connection and can function independently. Duo Cam Doorbell doesn’t require a “bridge”.
When a user with a compatible doorbell selects something like Cam OG using the “Cameras as Chime” feature, the selected camera acts as an accessory doorbell, essentially just doing double duty as both camera and chime, so I look at it as the camera gaining an feature and not fulfilling an essential primary function (like Chime Pro acting as a bridge would be doing). I don’t have Duo Cam Doorbell, but I’ve been using Cam OGs as accessory chimes for my Video Doorbell v2 for months, and I would expect the experience with Duo Cam Doorbell to be the same.
I bought the Home Depot chimeless edition and also looking for a solution. I can probably wait till May. Any idea how much the standalone WiFi chime will cost?
I saw a preview of the wifi chime on Amazon for $20 with delivery the 1st week in May. Price will most likely be same on Wyze when it starts marketing and selling. All the more reason to exchange at Home Depot.
I’m still unable to make the duo doorbell work with the mechanical chime and the chime controller. I have followed all the wiring diagrams ( despite being designed for the other door bell) and still not working. I havent contacted Wyze about it. If someone have successfully installed the chime controller to work with the Duo door bell, please reach out.
The situation is kind of confusing, because @matosw has posted in this topic and another one, where I’ve attempted to assist, and the last image shared over there appears to show the Chime Controller wired correctly in the standard configuration if the transformer, chime, and doorbell are wired correctly and if the wiring itself is as expected (i.e., 2-conductor wire from transformer to chime box and 2-conductor wire from chime box to doorbell button installation site).
I wonder if @matosw’s questions would be better served broken out into a new topic, because this one is specifically titled “without chime”, but that type of installation doesn’t seem to be @matosw’s goal. I’d like to offer more help, and I’m having some difficulty with that when follow-up questions remain unanswered across two separate topics and I don’t know how the doorbell and chime are behaving in the current setup or what the app settings are.
If I was in this situation, at this point I’d be inclined to use a multimeter to…
Confirm the voltage at the transformer.
Confirm the correct 2-conductor pairs at the chime (ensure that I know which pair are from the transformer and which are from the doorbell button’s location and that the wiring is all intact and routed as expected).
Confirm the voltage at the doorbell button’s location with the chime wired in its original configuration (i.e., white wires connected together with a nut and correct red wires connected to the FRONT and TRANS terminals).
With the chime wired in its original configuration (Chime Controller disconnected), I’d also be inclined to connect the original doorbell button and test that (or just short across the two wires at the doorbell button’s location) just to make sure the chime itself is working correctly. If it’s not, then I would think that the problem wasn’t with the Duo Cam Doorbell or Chime Controller, and I’d want to solve whatever else was the issue before moving on. Once I knew all that was functioning as expected, I’d go through the Chime Controller and Duo Cam Doorbell installation steps to make sure I wasn’t missing something else.
That’s the approach I think I’d take, anyway.
@fmills1d, the answers to your questions are in the other topic linked above. Unless something else has changed in the setup, @matosw has a chime for a single doorbell installation (FRONT and TRANS terminals only; no REAR) and is using a transformer rated for 16 V AC, 10 VA. @matosw has also reported measuring 19 V with a multimeter. While that meets the minimum power output recommendation for Duo Cam Doorbell, I’m not quite ready to recommend a transformer upgrade yet, because I don’t think I know enough at this point about what the whole situation is, like I mentioned above.
Thanks for info. I’ll look at that topic and posting. I don’t recall responding to a previous post by @matsow but won’t rule it out. I’m of the older generation you know. I will back away as you have a very good comprehension of his situation and original posting.
No problem. I appreciate your input and that of others. In this case, I kind of feel like certain posts from that topic and this one could maybe be consolidated into a single new topic in order to address that specific issue, but I don’t have that power, so I’m trying to respond appropriately with the information I have.
Also, I don’t have any direct experience with Duo Cam Doorbell, and you do. In some cases, I make guesses about how certain things should work (like whether or not certain settings might be available) because of my experience with Video Doorbell v2 and how I would expect Duo Cam Doorbell to be similar, and I try to be clear that I’m speculating in those cases. Because of that, I appreciate when someone who actually has the product can provide input from hands-on experience.
First , sorry for the confusion and posting on this thread. Let me check on your requests. Where should I post the reply? Thanks for your continuing support.
I appreciate the apology, though that isn’t necessary. Mainly I just want to see you get this thing working as expected, so my concern is that you weren’t doing yourself any favors by posting about the same issue in a couple of topics.
Probably the other topic would be more appropriate than this one since you’ve already posted other details (including photos) about your setup there, though if you wanted to start a new topic just for this issue, then that would also be okay.
No sweat. I think we just want to see you have success with this, and I imagine we’ll still be here to try to help whenever you get around to it.
I can’t speak for anyone else, but I’ve got plenty to keep me occupied, including some Cam Pan v3 troubleshooting that I need to get back to.
I still have this and the other topic set to “Watching”, so I should see whether you update here or in the topic where you’ve already posted photos and other information in the past.
Confirm the correct 2-conductor pairs at the chime (ensure that I know which pair are from the transformer and which are from the doorbell button’s location and that the wiring is all intact and routed as expected).- see pic top two from x-former
Confirm the voltage at the doorbell button’s location with the chime wired in its original configuration (i.e., white wires connected together with a nut and correct red wires connected to the FRONT and TRANS terminals).- can you tell me again which pf the red’s should I connect to the front andTrans. Right now is not connected. I took the voltage at the doorbell and is the same as it is at the -x-Form.
No, I can’t, because I don’t know. This is why I suggested the confirmation in the second bullet point that you quoted, because it’s important to know which conductor pair (one red and one white) is coming from the transformer side and which pair (one red and one white) is coming from the doorbell button side. If you don’t know (and it seems like you’re asking because you don’t), then I suggest testing. Your multimeter can be helpful for testing for continuity. That’s essentially what I did here when I conducted the same kind of testing that I’m suggesting you do:
This is the testing I did on my own doorbell's chime box, transformer, and wiring when I was having Chime Controller issues, and it led to my discovery that the wrong wires were connected to FRONT and TRANS before I even started. [Click to expand/collapse.]
I discovered that the red house wire attached to my doorbell chime’s TRANS terminal was actually coming from the doorbell, and the red house wire I’ve had connected to the Chime Controller’s black wire (this red wire which was originally connected to the doorbell chime’s FRONT terminal) was actually coming from the transformer. These had apparently been reversed at the time of the old “dumb” doorbell’s original installation, so I swapped them to their proper locations today.
More Detail:
I installed my own Video Doorbell v2 roughly 11 months ago using the standard wiring installation for the Chime Controller, and everything worked as expected from that time until a couple of months ago, when the chime stopped ringing with a button press. I tried a number of the typical troubleshooting steps and eventually got the chime ringing again somewhat reliably by using the alternate wiring instructions, but the ding-dong! is often accompanied by an unpleasant rattle/hum sound. Wyze Support says that “the buzzing/clicking sound on the chime is normal when an alternative wiring method is used”, but this seems odd to me, and trying to think my way through @fabron72’s wiring situation got me to explore and reevaluate my own doorbell wiring situation, so now I have a better understanding of what’s going on.
This is what I did:
Tested the voltage at my 10VA/16V transformer and read 18.5 V AC.
Turned off power to my doorbell.
Disconnected the house wires in my chime box and labeled the red wire (what I believe would equate to one of @fabron72’s black wires) that was attached to the TRANS terminal. (I wrote “Transformer” on a piece of tape to differentiate it from the other red wire.)
Untwisted the white wires in the chime box that have been twisted together and capped with electrical tape.
Clipped a test lead to the red and white wires at my transformer, effectively shorting across them (probably unnecessary).
Attached my multimeter to the red “Transformer” wire and its paired white wire (as they come into the box through the same insulation sheath), put it in resistance measurement mode, and turned it on, where it settled on “1”, even after double-checking all my connections. Oops.
Attached the multimeter to the other red wire (the one that was initially on the FRONT terminal and has instead been twisted together with the black wire from the Chime Controller) and its paired white wire and tested resistance to get a realistic reading of conductor resistance (which I didn’t record). This is the actual wire pair coming from the transformer!
Removed the Video Doorbell v2 from the wall and disconnected the wires so that I could test resistance again with that air gap and with a test lead clipped across the wires in order to confirm that the red wire which has been connected to TRANS this whole time is actually coming from the doorbell-side wire pair.
Reattached the multimeter to the actual transformer wire pair (now that I know which it is), put it in AC voltage measurement mode, restored power to the doorbell, and turned on the multimeter, which read 18.9 V, confirming that this is actually the transformer wire pair.
Turned off doorbell power again.
Reattached and remounted Video Doorbell v2 outside.
Rewired my chime box:
Twisted the two white wires back together, taped the exposed conductors to insulate them, and tucked them out of the way.
Attached my known transformer red wire to the TRANS terminal along with the red wire from the Chime Controller.
Attached the white Chime Controller wire to the FRONT terminal.
Twisted the black Chime Controller wire together with the remaining red wire (the false “Transformer” wire that I now know is actually coming from the doorbell) after removing my temporary tape label.
Restored power to the doorbell, waited for it to boot up and load a video stream to the Wyze app, and then tested by pressing the button to get a nice ding-dong! from the house’s built-in chime now that the wiring is correct and the Chime Controller is wired back with its true standard wiring installation.
If that doesn’t make sense or if you need additional assistance/instructions for testing, then please let me know.
The pair coming from the transformer is the top pair. The bottom is coming from the doorbell. The voltage at the transformer and at the doorbell is 18.38 . Currently The chime is not connected because I tried all the suggested ways and still had issues. If you are stating that the Duo needs 19 volts then, I would guess that I need to change the trans. My question was regarding third point thinking you asked to check the voltage with the chime controler. My bad. Let me check on this, now, why would we need this, to check if there is a dropped in voltage?
I will back away as you have a very good comprehension of his situation and original posting.
